I'm not sure I understand the "Edit" quite, but it might be similar to what we did. My window had adequate height for the cranks, but there were issues that happened after it was installed that changed the relative heights of the floor of the window and the counter. They were able to take the floor out of the window and adjust the height, and seal it back up without any problems. It took them less than a couple of hours.

I'm not certain if I'm using the right terminology, but can the crank and housing be removed and then an appropriate indentation be made in the soapstone such that the soapstone can go into place and then the crank and housing installed afterwards?

Why don't you replace the window with one the same size but without a crank - most brands make them - you won't be able to open the window but that shouldn't be a big deal.

I like PPC's idea--remove the crank housing, scoop out where it goes, and replace the crank housing. Yes, you'll have a bit that's low, but it beats having a big fat unlevel seam. Or just a notch. I think this is what your cabinet guy is saying

Basically, modify the soapstone ONLY where it collides. Nobody will notice.

Ask the window people if they have different cranks available or ask your GC if smaller ones are available that can be interchanged. We were going to have issues with ours wrt putting in blinds inset into our windows.. Apparently you can switch the big cranks out to ones that look like wingnuts but that are a little bigger so as to be able to grip them for turning.

blfenton, yes, my GC suggested the wingnuts as well, and we can do that if the clearance with the handle is a problem. The primary problem is that the housing is too low, though.

Fori and PPC, that is exactly what the electrician suggested. I guess I call the window company, as some simple wiggling/prying doesn't seem to be moving the crank housing at all, and I'm not sure how to remove them.

Pillog, the floor of the window is integrated into the window itself (not finish carpentry ), and the installer had no interest in ripping it out and reducing its height, although I did suggest it. I have to assume that would mess with the warranty, also, as far as water tightness.

Weissman, perhaps you missed the gist of the original post.

Call the window company and ask if there is an alternate crank.

We have Anderson big-crank windows in our solar porch. The Window Quilt thermal coverings cannot close over the regular crank. BUT...there is a smaller crank made by a 3rd party that the Window Quilt people recommended. Now this was 30 yrs ago but I suspect the problem is still there. These little cranks don't require much clearance--they look more like a wind-up key for roller skates. They're hard on the hands because you can't get any mechanical advantage, but they're all we could use in our situation.

Another option is a crank that folds back upon itself. Our new Pella windows have this. Perhaps there is another folding crank made by a 3rd party?

You also have to watch the counter receptacle spacing.

While the area the width of the sink does not count, you are required to have a receptacle within 24 inches of the edge of the sink (measured along the counter) on each side if there is more than 12 inches of counter.

No, I didn't miss the gist of your original post - you did say "the windows aren't going anywhere" but you also said "perhaps I could have spent $1K more on the Okna one" so I took that to mean that you were at least somewhat open to swapping out the window if necesary. I still think the best option is to put in a non-opening window without a crank, but obviously it's your decision.

The scooping it is a good idea, but I don't know how that is going to get installed unless the piece is separate from the main counter anyway.

It has to be maneuvered around the crank and that will be impossible with an entire run of counter, but it *may be possible with s piece cut just for the window.

Actually I take it back, there is no way to maneuver a piece that is scooped out under both cranks at the same time.

I would have them fabricate a shaped, separate piece (C-shaped or U-shaped) that fit under each crank area and install those and then put the rest of the one piece counter in, if it can be dropped in over the cranks.

If it has to slide in I would fabricate a shaped piece that fit under the crank and extended to the window, install those and slide the reat of the one piece counter into place. There will be seams but possibly only in a small area around the cranks or from the crank to the back window.

If you can live with windows that don't open, just remove the cranks.

The floor of my window was part of the window itself too.

Is there any way to change the opener from crank to push out?

My marble fabricator thought we'd have the same problem, too. He had me call my windows ppl, Marvin, and pose the problem.

Something about a 'butterfly' hardware thingy.

But I monkeyed around with the crank and saw that if one held it a certain way, there was no problem whatsoever. We didn't need anything.

I know it sounds like it's already been checked, but please, you monkey with the handle and see what happens. It's a shot in the dark and it saved us from your dilemma.

Palimpsest, my guess is that the scooping is only possible if we can get the crank housing off (many indicate that it is possible, but I can't quickly figure out how to do it). The window piece should be able to slide straight in; in that case, then we put the housing back on and it sits in the scoop recess. I'll give Soft-Lite a call to find out if they have an alternate housing. We have about 2 weeks before the correct plywood sink base comes in, so the soapstone templaters won't be out until after then.

Brickeye, good point on the outlets. The window isn't much wider than the sink base, and plugmold starts within a few inches under both adjacent cabs, so we're good on that front.

Weissman, I guess my meaning wasn't clear. DH gave me the green light for the already expensive garden window, so an extra $1K for Okna would be pushing the limits there! This is our only kitchen window, and I do really want the ventilation that the side-lites provide.