If you are thinking that wider tires always mean more traction, you have been misled. Wider tires DO mean a wider contact patch for sure....but that does not always mean you will get more traction. Weight to press the tire firmly against (or into) the ground is where you get traction. Tread type and design are also factors. You are on the right path in considering liquid filled tires (more weight right where it's needed most). The main reasons you are seeing this "skidding" of the uphill wheel is due to weight shifting (change in center of gravity) in a hillside turn. The uphill wheel has less weight on it and the downhill wheel has more weight on it than when you are turning on level ground. It will be difficult for you to offset this using "body english". The other reason for the skidding has to do with an inherent characteristic of the zero turn concept. In the zero turn machines, there is not a "real differential" to allow the outside wheel to revolve at a higher RPM than the inside wheel when a turn is executed. In the case of zero turn mowers, YOU change the speed of the opposite wheels by manipulating the controls (handles or joystick) but unless you can get the two wheels turning at "just the right individual RPM", each wheel is still either "driven by", or it's "held tight by", hydraulic power........ and the lighter wheel is going to be the one to skid (or spin) if the traction surface is the same for both wheels. With vehicles that feature a gear type differential, there is less tendency to skid a drive wheel in a turn because the differential gears automatically allow the opposite wheels to find the perfect, balance of RPM needed by each wheel. Another thing you have to realize is just because you have a "zero turn" machine, you can't just "stop" one wheel and pivot on that wheel without tearing up the turf. When you do that, it is just like if you put a 6" diameter piece of concrete weighing over 100 Lb. on your lawn and then rotated it 180 degrees. I believe you will eventually be able to overcome this as you get more proficient with the joystick.

I made my bedroom drapes out of a twin duvet. I found a duvet from PB clearance that I loved and originally bought the twin duvet to make matching shams b/c PB had sold out of the shams. But I found the euro shams on Ebay, so I used the twin duvet to make drapes. I had to hang them on clip rings b/c they were too short to use otherwise. You should be fine with the king size though. You may even have enough fabric to make some shams or throw pillows. I used a seam ripper to remove the surged stiching and hemmed the unfinished edges. Because I was trying to make the drapes as long as possible, I didn't even remove the area with the button holes. You can't even see them unless you know they are there and you look very closely. If it were in my living room, I wouldn't have done that, but no one except me (and you all) would ever know. (When I paint, I'm going to move the rods down just a little so the drapes skim the floor.) Here are some pics:

Not sure if this will be of any help considering all the great advice you've already gotten, but since I did this at my previous house, I thought I'd pipe up. I had a typical shower, tub enclosure, but wanted the curtain to fall to the floor. I also wanted the extra-long fabric curtain to be rather full, so I joined two widths. I believe I used a two inch header and used grommets with essentially the same spacing as used on commercial shower liners, so almost twice as many grommets as a liner would have. I hung both the curtain and the liner from a single shower rod using the old fashioned roller "rings." But while the curtain hung from all the rings (a ring for every grommet), the liner was only attached to every other ring. That way the liner was spread out flat when in use, but the curtain remained somewhat gathered. Wow. It's difficult to explain, but it worked great.

Donna, I do not want to discourage you at all, but - Do you plan to have the chair recovered so you can sell it? The wooden parts should be cleaned up and sealed or waxed also. If you need someone else to do the work for you, and plan to sell it, I am pretty sure that the labor and materials would be more than you could get for the chair. I love to sew and work on old things, and decided to try re-upholstery a few years ago. It's very satisfying and fun, but I had to add several tools to the ones that I already had. I added those tools over time, and have used them several times since. A friend who works with me recently asked me to recover a chair that her husband found - at the side of the road! I think this pic is taken in a storage room at their house. I have since taken off the old finish with Howard 'Restor A Finish' and steel wool and the oak wood is gleaming now and beautiful. It's been finished in Howard 'Feed n Wax'. I've stripped off the many layers under the seat and filled in the hundreds of tack holes, so I'll have a good surface to staple the new fabric into. I may work on it a bit this weekend. Here is a before and after - I bought this chair for $25 with crumbling velvet and needing to be tightened and re-glued from the NH Craigslist in 2012. I stripped all the fabric and stuffing layers off it - that took quite a while. It had inlays of different woods, and I had to remove the original paint and finish under that paint, and re-finish the wood - Then I had to put padding, batting and new fabric on it once it was re-glued and sturdy. You can get remnants of great fabrics on eBay or at Joann Fabric inexpensively. From buying it in July, and working on it off and on on weekends, as I work full time, I finished in in September. Because this is a hobby for me, I don't charge much for my labor. I sold the chair for $250, as it was just a fun project for me. 10x what I paid for it, but certainly not a huge profit if I charged for labor. I love to see a piece that looks awful when I start it turn into a 'swan'. My advice for you is that if you think this is the type of project you'd have fun with, then by all means go for it! But depending on where you live, to have someone do it for you, I think it may cost you more than what the chair is worth. BUT, if you can do it yourself, perhaps with the help of a friend, and keep it for yourself, I promise you'll smile every time you look at your first chair re-do project!