Old thread alert. FWIW - The door handle opened (all past tense) normally for me. If there is a baby gate at the stairs (which are labeled not to be used after age 2 or at the top of the stairs), then a child can't exactly escape a fire on their own anyway. And strangely our 2 year old couldn't get out the exterior doors anyway. Arguably, the default situation can create a dangerous situation if the child locks himself in the room accidentally and there is a fire.

Thank you all for posting this question and answering it - I have the same question :) So, can I just use a "kitchen" cabinet pull for a handle - I am thinking of using the one in my link - as I am looking for a handle with clean contemporary lines and I too don't think I want to use the traditional type of pocket door finger pull and have been wondering if it is possible to install a cabinet pull vertically on the door (like you would on a upper kitchen cabinet) instead. If you think it would work, what size pull do you think is the best - 8" maybe??? We do not need the door to go all the way into it's "pocket" either and they do not need to lock. I guess I am concerned that cabinet hardware would not be strong enough to use. If you can recommend a company that sells contemporary, clean lines door pulls for this purpose I would appreciate any help. Thanks Piaa Here is a link that might be useful: Cabinet Pull

Doubling the price just gets you a "basic" kitchen with no real upgrades--unless you consider having real corner cabinets , molding and knobs to be upgrades. The 7 or so cabinets that the "typical 10 x 10" kitchen are based on use null corners or the smallest most useless blind corner cabinets and 33" fridge as "typical". Most kitchens aren't 10 x 10 any more, and no one wants a blind corner cabinet that can actually physically fit anything else in the space. So, for a "real" kitchen, start multiplying by 3 and up. Glazes are usually a 15-20% upcharge. Plywood "upgrades" are the same. (and totally NOT worth it) Want taller than 30" cabinets? X 4. Want a glass cabinet or two? x5. Want stacked cabinets? x6. Corbels, onlays, fluted pilasters, rosettes and stacked moldings? x7 or 8. Or more. In a midrange cabinet line like Kraftmaid, with a mid range door in maple (no glaze) with a decent amount of actual creativity and functionality, you're looking at $400 a foot and up. Islands and tall cabinets count double and you don't "subtract" for the DW or range space. So, if you have a 10 x 14 kitchen that is L shaped with cabinets on two walls and a 4' island, you're looking at approximately 32 linear feet of cabinetry (assuming a range and not a wall oven or pantry). Multiply that by the $400 to get an "average" kitchen in Kraftmaid as being $12,800. That same kitchen can cost around $5k in the cheapest partial overlay oak style with zero add ons, or it might cost $32,000 with a highly detailed cherry door and glazing and stacked cabinets with some glass and tall molding.

You might consider a "T" shaped home in lieu of a longer or wider box. The angle can help define your spaces without need for a "hallway" to separate them. Instead of a dining room, you could have one of your two kitchen rows of countertops lower to be usable as a either a kitchen countertop or dining table and use the area around it as a hallway. You could put your essential rooms in the center and each "end" of the "T" could be a large room for living room and two bedrooms. Note: A " T" shape would mean more exterior wall, more potential for windows and, potentially, more heat/cool cost but it could also mean a couple of private patio or porch areas with a north/south center wing providing shade for one side for morning and for the other side for evening. Whatever shape you build, pay attention to what area you are willing to have dark (north side in the northern hemisphere) (good side for your driveway/garage/carport ... windowless rooms ) and what side you want to have sunlight throughout the day or just morning or just afternoon. If you put most of your windows facing toward the all day sun (generally south in the northern hemisphere) , you could plant trees nearby for shade during summer that would drop their leaves in winter to let in the sunlight.