Our house is a traditional Nantucket Colonial, so I went pretty traditional. The door knobs are mostly Emtek glass with antique brass (I think they call it French brass). Most of our hardware, lighting, etc. is antique brass or natural brass (which will get a patina with age). The bathroom on the first floor is done in antique brass, but the full bathrooms (upstairs) are done in polished chrome. The mudroom is brushed nickel door hardware with polished chrome schoolhouse lights. The kitchen has brass lights and hardware, but a chrome faucet (it was traditional to have a chrome faucet in older houses). I may change the faucet to antique brass, but I'm having trouble finding one that will fit the drilled holes. I am not a fan of brushed finishes, especially in traditional houses. To me brushed is very utilitarian (the reason I used it in my mudroom). If I had it to do over I would have used the brass in the mudroom as well, but those light fixtures are too expensive to replace (3 schoolhouse lights plus a wall sconce). I wouldn't get hardware at HD. If you have brass in one room and chrome in the next, make sure you get split doorknobs (brass on one side, chrome on the other). The hinges should be the color of the hardware of the room the door swings into.

We bought the house we are in now almost three years ago-and it had white cabinets, white appliances and cream laminate counters. VERY WHITE....we too had to buy a fridge and I couldn't decide if it was okay to buy SS and went with white so it would "match" the others. Now we have replaced the counters and ALL the appliances with SS. I wish I would have just purchased the SS fridge I wanted from the start-I think it is certainly okay to mix them-and if you buy the white knowing you plan to eventually replace the other ones you may regret it-I did immediately. Now my almost 3 year old fridge is in the garage-which is fine...and I do love having it there-but would have saved me $2500 to just get the SS to begin with.

I think of stainless as a neutral. I take it you don't want to change your pulls and faucet. You could leave them if you don't want the expense and hassle. To me, the color seems dated, but if you like it you should leave it. The color should work with Yellow River. Hope you found your tile!

While I agree with the gist of what @M Miller said, there is a minor correction. The description of the corrosion process makes it sound as if visible rust is always just surface contamination from other items. That's often how this starts, but it isn't necessarily how it proceeds. Stainless steel gains it's stainless properties from easily forming a thin protective layer of corroded material all over its surface. But since stainless steel is an alloy of more than just iron, these oxides are primarily from the chromium in it. And unlike iron oxides (i.e. rust), those are transparent and form a solid passivation layer that protects the steel underneath. Usually, you are unlikely to disturb this thin layer of oxides and if you do (e.g. by scratching) it quickly forms again. It's self-healing. But that process breaks down if you contaminate the surface with rust, and that rust can very well originate from other iron objects that were left in the sink for too long. At some point, the actual stainless steel will start rusting as well. It's still a slow process and your sink won't rust through. But you'll need a lot more elbow grease than if you had to just remove some contamination on the surface. In other words, if you notice occasional rust spots, clean them up quickly. This process turns out to be even more problematic if non-stainless steel particles or iron somehow became embedded in the stainless steel. That is guaranteed to lead to rusting and will often even cause pitting of the stainless steel. This is not something you'd expect to happen under normal circumstances, but it is the reason why you should never use steel wool on stainless steel (unless the steel wool is also stainless). There are other things that can corrupt the chromium oxide layer and cause stainless to rust. The most common household chemicals prone to doing so are anything high in chlorides (e.g. cooking salt). And while the chemical process is different, oxalic acid in Barkeeper's Friend would similarly remove the chromium oxide coating. Neither one of these chemicals are a problem during brief exposure. But let salt or Barkeeper's Friend sit on the sink's surface for hours on end, and you'll see surface damage and blemishes that will need to be removed. Mechanical scrubbing with more Barkeeper's Friend should clean up the damaged area, and if you rinse everything off thoroughly, then in due time a new protective chromium oxide layer will form. And just for the record, it doesn't make a difference whether the original factory finish was satin or brushed. As long as the factory didn't use steel wool to do the brushing, you're all good. And if they did hypothetically use steel wool, you'd discover that mistake within days of owning the sink when it gets rust spots all over.