Hi toomuch.....what I do is try to "build up" the thinner pieces so that they are level with the thicker pieces. I don't know what kind of adhesive you use....I always use the cement based adhesive....and the consistency of it allows you to do that. Also, on a piece that is from the rim of the plate - sometimes the outside edge is much thinner than it is a little further towards the middle...so on a piece like that, I build up the thinner part of the piece...does that make sense? That's what works for me, anyway....

I have that exact problem too, its why I can't do shards on small objects. But I think I'm too lazy to add stuff underneath to level it all. My mirror will be lumpy but I kind of like that - like sculpture!

oh, and yes, it will probably look funny if you leave it that way. For an example...see the pic of the little box that was my "first mosaic piece".....and you'll see exactly what it will look like.....it was my first piece, and I didn't know about building up the thinner pieces/parts....you can see how it goes up and down. Not a good look. :)

You can stick a piece of scrap glass or tile or something underneath to even it out. Or like curb did with her footers, use your silicone to build up.

Maria

lyndalu, what kind of adhesive do you use that you can do this. I've gotten to where I just take the thicker pieces out and put together for something else. I use china but like to mix stain glass in with it so ideally I like the china to be that thickness. It's a problem for me because I like it all the same level.

We all have our own ways of doing this and it is very interesting. I have been known to add a piece of stained glass under a too thin but perfect color piece of china. Just be sure it does not rock on you. That will crack your grout.

When I am going from thick to thinner I try to use one of the rounded edges against the thinner piece and then have the thicker added piece on the back side of the rounded edge. This is hard to explain. On one of my tables the surface slightly rolls. You can build up on some of the higher spots with grout if you are careful cleaning it off.

Another way I do it is to take my dremel tool when the silicone is all dry and smooth down or bevel the higher edge to flow into the thinner piece. This takes a bunch of time but has worked very well for me. Saves on cut fingers too. I lightly run my hand over my work and everything that even feels sharp gets dremeled.

I have tried to sort my china bits in thickness but then finding just the right color in the right thickness can make a person crazy. I LOVE my dremel tool.

Chris

Hi lilym....I use the MAPEI - Ultraflex 2 - Professional Grade Polymer Modified Mortar. It's already got the polymers in it, so you just mix it with water...and it shouldn't be too wet....like peanut butter consistency. With a little practice, you can get it all pretty level. When I was first trying to get better at this, I used a level...I have a small one and a big one, so just used my small one for this purpose...and it helped me, but after awhile I didn't need it anymore.

shades....yes, it is interesting to hear all the different ways of doing things....I like finding out what works for different people....or maybe for different applications....depending on what you're working with and on! I have a dremel, but hardly ever think about using it....so I like it when someone mentions the way they are using it!

lyndalu, I just bought a bag of that mapei last week. I didn't for the life of me remember why I was getting it I just knew that someone (think it was slow) recommended it for something. I was planning to start a topic with a question as to what to use it for. LOL
So, you can mix a small amount and use it in place of the GE II as an adhesive?

Hi Toomuchglass-
Yes, the grout should fill smoothly between pieces of different thicknesses, as long as the differences isn't too extreme. I have found that I like the look, as long as there is some sort of pattern to it- like all the pieces of one color are the same thickness, creating a raised effect of that color. If only a few pieces of that color are thicker it will look bumpy and awkward. Does that make sense? If you are doing something sculptural this works fine, but if it's a table top, or something you want to be level it may be a problem. It should work fine on a bird house. Can't wait to see pics!

LILYM: The Mapei mortar is a wonderful adhesive - sticks almost immediately. TOOMUCH: I believe it was Silvaemae who puts little pieces of craft sticks under her pieces to bring them up to other pieces. I just bought a bag cuz I don't want to use an extra piece of glass under them. The craft sticks are about the same thickness as a piece of stained glass. I'm like NICE in liking the texture of different levels - gives it a little more interest. If you want it PERFECTLY level - use the indirect method.

Great suggestions . I think I'm on the right track now. THis birdhouse is my "practice piece" . I'll make all my mistakes on it and keep it as a reminder of what NOT to do ... LOL

Does it dry out fast, or do you just mix a little at a time? I don't mind it's not level on things like wall hangings, bird houses, etc. but on a tray or tabletop I do like it as level as possible. tasymo, using the same color/thickness in an area would work better than just random. I'll keep that in mind.

I just did some small pots with the MAPEI that Slow had suggested. I have all the china pre-cut, then I put mortar on half of the pot. As I'm placing the pieces, I butter the back of anything that isn't level, just using a little paint spreader from the $1 store. Works great and the job goes quickly. I stuck in some beads too. I just build the mortar up and stuff the bead in. I use the same material tinted with paint for the grout, and around the beads and thinner pieces of china you just need enough grout to cover up the under color - you could even tint that if you wanted!

GGG

If I'm working on wood I use Liquid Nail clear with blue label and build up thinner pieces.I put a little dab on craft stick and blow on it that hardens it enough it will stay thick if i need it to be like a little glob.I have not had good luck with thinset or mortar sticking things to wood it did not stick even tho I sealed wood first..I guess it works for most of you ,don't know why not for me?I always butter the backs with thinset and build up how I need if working on concrete or pots etc.

lilym...the MAPEI stuff isn't too bad about drying out. If you have to walk away from it for a bit, just put something over the container, and it will stay better. I use my old yogurt cups to mix it in and put the lid on it if I have to take a break. Remember to be careful when you're adding the water - a little bit at a time, mix it real good and then add more if needed. If it's too wet, your pieces will slide around, plus it'll be harder to do the "building up" process.