After staying in a hotel last week with a walk in shower approximately 36" deep with a shower curtain, I strongly advise against a shower curtain. Assuming your bathroom will have an exhaust fan to help ventilate the moisture from the shower, you have to expect the shower curtain to be impacted by the moving air. The warm shower air is drawn up over the curtain into the fan. And of course more air needs to be drawn into the shower, so how does it get in there? That's right, it blows the curtain into the shower allowing the air to go under the curtain. Trying to shave my legs with a wet shower curtain sticking to my legs and arms and behind is very unpleasant. When I redo my master shower I will definitely be going with a glass door and/or fixed panel.

Hi there, This is my first time posting in the bathroom forum (been hanging out in the appliance section), so I'm glad people have the same concerns I do about cleaning the shower! Apologies in advance if this is a bit tangental, but I've been looking at various shower surfaces for our new bathroom remodels. I like the look of tile/stone but absolutely abhor the idea of dealing with the grout and caulking -- it just seems like an inevitable problem. Those acrylic inserts appear to resolve this issue, but they're just so cheap feeling I don't think I can buy into it. Having recently visited a home show, I think I found a really interesting compromise called stonecraft (not sure if that's just the company brand name or the actual product name -- linked below). It's a plastic/cement mixture that they paint in two layers. The first layer goes on solid. Then they 'tape' the tile pattern you want, then apply the second coat (different colour). When the tape's removed, the first layer appears as the grout lines. I first looked at this for my patio deck, but the more I read into it, the more I liked it for other parts of the house -- including the shower (they even suggest it). My contractor worked on another house that used this outside and it really feels like a stone material. As it's painted on, it should be seamless (walls, floor, ceiling)and, therefore, a breeze to clean! Kind of hoping someone's used this and can share their experience, because it seems like a silver bullet. As for the doors itself, I'm wondering if anyone knows how long a shower stall would need to be to go 'doorless' without getting significant splashing out of water. TIA Here is a link that might be useful: Stonecraft

Follow up (I'm OP): GC contacted the lead guy (owner?) of glass co., and within days they were at my house to discuss. They said the door's vertical sweep (which closes to the fixed glass 1/2 panel - see pic) could be replaced with a thinner one. And some glass cos. don't even put a sweep there. They said to totally disregard everything the receptionist said - she had no business diagnosing the problem. The thinner sweep would only be the top half of the door. But we're thinking your eye won't notice that the bottom half has a thicker sweep because there's a 1/2 wall, tiled, there. Get this: The day they showed up the door worked again (pivoted both in and out of the shower)! It was colder - wildly guessing the walls are expanding in heat, or maybe its just a stiff sweep problem (they didn't opine as to cause). Glass co. owner gave me his text and direct dial/vm, and said he'll install a thinner sweep whenever - i.e., if I want, I can wait until its hot again. The only thing I find annoying is that, well, I paid about $3,900 with tax for the glass (HCOL area), and seems I should have a door that fits with the usual sweep. And I'm concerned that if we go with the thinner sweep, maybe the walls will contract when it cold again. But I guess I would rather be done with this and, if it does leak in the winter, deal with that problem then. My 1 year warranty is up Dec. 2017.

I have a wheelchair accessible shower - no lip whatsoever. I use a heavy vinyl shower curtain from Hammacher Schlemmer here. It does not billow outward whatsoever. It billows inward just a bit. I have never had any water exit the shower using either the traditional wall shower head or the rain shower in the center of the shower. My trench drain is right under where the shower curtain hangs. My curtain just hits the floor. You could do a few things if you have a lighter shower curtain liner. You can add weights to the bottom of the curtain by sewing them into a hem on a fabric curtain. These Pie Weights would work for that, if you get enough. They are 10" each, so maybe you get three and place one on each end and one in the middle. Lead fishing weights might be easiest because they have a slot in them, through which you can put thread to sew them in place. You may be able to side the shower curtain fabric into a slot, I don't know. Or you can hot glue or sew weights to the bottom of a shower curtain on the outside of the curtain. If you get pairs of magnets, you can add weight to a hem by placing magnets on either side of the fabric, with the back side of one magnet locking onto the front side of another on the other side of the fabric. Or use these steel washers on one side of the curtain and rare earth magnet on the other side. Or these sets that give you the magnet, a steel cup to hold it, and a steel washer for it to hold onto. That sounds pretty heavy. The steel cup may help keep the magnet from attaching to your wheelchair if it gets too close.