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malhgold & others - 30' sink base, 28' interior width sink?

15 years ago

We have a 30" sink base and I wanted as large a SS single bowl sink as possible that would fit. The challenge was very little choice larger than 25" but smaller than 30".

I have the granite templating tomorrow. I bought the sink that malhgold also purchased, Ticor 28" interior width in a 30" sink base. It will be undermounted with a granite countertop (color Tan Brown).

I taped the template to the cabinet - what do you think? I'm debating about buying a "backup" today from Lowes just in case the granite people say the larger one won't work.

(Where you see the template folded, it has a perforation that says to use that smaller template for undermount, full size template for overmount.)

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Comments (6)

kimberlee19
Original Author
15 years ago
Duh, sorry, the title should read 28" and 30" - not 28' and 30'! That'd be one huge sink...
shipshape
15 years ago
You need a 25" sink in that cabinet. 30" sink is too big, because cutting those top support struts is not a good idea. It will violate the warranty, for one thing.

Can you change to a larger sink base -- or settle for a smaller sink?
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Here is a to-scale visual for you showing 3 different sink sizes in a 39" corner cabinet. Do make sure your corner cabinet is 39" and not 36" as this will make a difference in the maximum sink size. In the photo, the white rim around the gray is the lip that runs around the sink that attaches to the stone countertop for an undermount sink. The gray is the actual interior space of the sink. Each sink size is denoted next to it. I have both the 30" rectangle sink & the 23" D-Sink. The 30" fits everything including my super long grate panels for my rangetop (12"x24") with room to spare. I have a D-Sink in the kitchen and one in the laundry, it pretty much fits everything too including my roasting pan-at 17.5" long. One of the advantages of the D-Sink is that you gain a couple inches in width (20" vs 18" referring to measurement from top at the faucet to bottom at the counter) which helps visually with a corner cabinet and the dead space behind the faucet. Either shape you go with will be more than adequate for what you want to wash/soak in the sink--especially the 30" rectangle. But I don't think the 33" is a good idea as it will increase the amount of countertop between you & the sink by 2" which as LWO mentions will be a strain on your back. If you were going double bowl with the sink, that would be a different story, but since you're going single bowl, you will be just fine. I've also attached a link to the brand of sinks we put in in case your builder/KD has a hard time finding a ~30" sink. Ours are model #s LXUS03 & LXUS04. These are the dimensions I used to create the corner cabinet layout for you. Hope this helps! Here is a link that might be useful: Sinks Referenced Above
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This is for a new house, so there's no existing plumbing to consider. I know the pipes could be offset, like they do for wheelchair users, but that doesn't even seem necessary. All our cabinetry will be built by a local shop; our GC usually builds higher-end houses than ours, which I've seen, so I'm confident he has some cabinetmakers who can handle this. So, let me check my figures. If my 14" to the left of the center pipe is correct, we remove 3/4" for plywood carcass on that side, let's say a generous 1" on the left side of the drawers for their sides and clearance. And 2" on the right side for the drawer sides, 3/4" plywood vertical piece , and clearances. Frameless cabinetry, with undermount drawer slides. I've got 9.5" left as the interior drawer width. That is HUGE in that space. (Remember, I have 2 drawers now totally 8" and it's sufficient for my needs.) I think for sure I could have 8" interior dimension. And I'll have a stack of them. The ones below can be used by other people, since I can't reach them. jon: No offense here, but I don't understand why it would be difficult for a competent cabinetmaker to make this simple cabinet. What am I missing here? He doesn't have to make shaped drawers, like Blum's sink wraparound drawer. He just has to measure correctly. And he'll charge me more to measure accurately? Custom cabinet shops are surely used to building things a little different than what I can buy off the shelf. I guess if they want too much money, then DH, who is a relatively new cabinetmaker, can make it himself for a lot less money. He just finished one for another bath. I have furniture for him to build, so I don't want to sidetrack him on this project, but I can. And I can do the design work. This cannot be that hard. Also, the cabinet shop is getting the work for the entire house, with built-ins in kitchen, laundry, mudroom and 3 baths, including medicine cabinets and wall cabinets there. They should be able to make us a reasonable price on this.
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Hmm I think you need to be a bit more specific on the measurements. Is 32" the measurement from the outside edge to outside edge of the sink? I'm assuming that 30" is the outside to outside of the box of the cabinet, unless it is face framed in which case it could be the exterior of the face frame (I think?) which would be worse. Unless you measured it, it's doubtful that it's the inside of the box because then it would really be a ~31.5" sink base... which would be odd. Unless you are planning to lop off the top part of your sink base... I'm not really seeing how this is going to work. A 30" sink base is likely only 28.5" interior. The bowl of a 32" sink is likely 30" outside to outside of the bowl only.
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malhgold
15 years ago
kimberlee - i haven't bought the sink yet, but that is the one i'm planning on. as i mentioned previously, i asked my kd about this and he said as long as the interior dimensions are less than 28 1/2", it's fine in a 30" sink base. The granite people had to cut some of the support when they installed a sink in my kids bathroom. they didn't mention any sort of problem. people on GW do it all the time. hopefully some of them will chime in.
Buehl
15 years ago
When I was sink shopping, I was told (by my KD) I could have any sink up to 1/2" less total width than the cabinet.

This is what my sink base looked like before the sink. Maybe it's how my cabinet was built, but I didn't need those long support pieces...
kitchenredo2
15 years ago
It all depends on the cabinet. The 30" is the exterior dimensions of the cabinet - you have to deduct the width of the sides of the cabinet in order to get the interior dimensions of the cabinet. Depending on how the sink is attached, you still could need more than just enough room for the sink to fit.

From your photo, it looks like you would be cutting it a bit close and I would be concerned that cutting so close would compromise the integrity of the cabinets. I would feel safer going with a smaller sink so that there is less of a chance for my cabinet to get damaged. Others have done this, perhaps they will chime in with what they did.

I had to send to the installers the dimensions and pdf's of my sinks before they came out to template my countertops. Did they ask you to do this?
Buehl
15 years ago
If it helps...

My sink base is 36"
I have 1/2" walls...so the opening is 35"
The outside/overall dimensions of my sink are: 35-1/8" x 20-7/8"

As far as I know, there was no scribing needed. The rim, I think, was placed on the cabinet so there was probably some overlap. I don't know for certain if any additional supports were added...but it looks like they may have been (see the upper left corner of the second pic below). If needed, perhaps your Contractor could do the same...add the support where/if needed.

A couple of pics taken from underneath:

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