The reason I keep recommending powdered Dirtex is that it doesn't need rinsing!! It's mild and a good cleaner! A small box will last you 'til you retire probably! It instantly disappears in warm water. You don't need a dripping-wet sponge either. Just good and moist...and gently scrub the walls. TSP is a good cleaner too....BUT...needs to be rinsed WELL, 2 OR 3 TIMES! You'll have no problems with Dirtex. Your spray-foam may be harsher than Dirtex! Faron

We used BM Regal Matte in 2 bathrooms used by children. It's a great all-around paint but I was skeptical too when I asked my BM store about what to use in the bathrooms as I have the Matte in the rest of my home. They recommended Matte and I was so excited because I'm not a fan from a decorating standpoint of the satin finishes. They assured me it would be great and we haven't been disappointed. My kids are all young so they give the walls a good splattering of handprints, toothpaste . . . you name it. The Regal Matte cleans up beautifully. I wouldn't put just *any* flat paint in a bathroom but Regal Matte is a whole different kind of paint. :-)

Shee & Co., Sorry it took me a while to get back to this.... Skewing: I shouldn't have mentioned this goofy little point, but now it's out there! It's only relevant in a few "Real-life" scenarios. It mainly pertains (to ME anyway...) paint applied too thinly, therefore revealing a hint of the primer color. * Example: If someone uses a "pink" primer under Burgundy, the whole paintjob can appear too light, 'cuz the primer is too white. * To ME...Gray is more appropriate, 'cuz it alters deep colors the "least", if paint is applied too thin. * Gray primer has its limits though! If you're painting a vivid "Lemon Yellow" or "Basketball Orange", THEN you'd need a primer that's almost the final paint color! A medium-gray primer COULD give a grayish-cast to bright, vivid tones. Curing/Bathroom use: * Sorry Shee.....you'll have to smell for a month.........;-) * JUST KIDDING! * After 2nd paint coat has dried for a day, use bathroom as normal. It needs that 24hrs. to get the initial surface-dry so steam doesn't re-soften the paint slightly. * "Full Cure-Out" mainly refers to the complete dry-thru/hardening of the applied film...SO IT'S WASHABLE. "Sweeping": * If you're working L-to-R, the RIGHT edge of a "swept" section will be the wettest. * Therefore, you're OK to slightly work into this section. When sweeping your 2nd column, start from its left edge, overlapping into 1st column slightly. * Ease-off the pressure on your rollers left side just a hair when overlapping a previous sections' final sweep. Faron

@mark_rachel, I changed to cedar key. I bought it to go with the new marble tile I picked for the fireplace. There is a lot of natural light in the room. It might be a little pinker than bleecker beige, but I don't really see the pink when I don't look at them together. To me it is a very very soft latte. In the store it felt more gray. On some adjacent walls, I have collectors item. It is a creamy color, seems like a very light version of the yellows I had before. It works with cedar key. I did not want to be surrounded by taupe or gray, which is why I chose to contrast with cream. My living area pallete right now is BM white, cedar key, and collector's item. The paint consultant picked out the latter two when I brought in my samples. I told her bleecker beige (taupe) was my least favorite color (sometimes you can't avoid things that work so well), and that I loved gray but didn't want to be surrounded by it. I lived with bleecker beige for several years. Visitors loved it. I think I was ready to tone down all the yellows on the walls and floor, so I am happy going with cooler hues. BM has a free 2016 color of the year booklet that features varying shades of white. I picked one up at my BM paint store.