I've always gotten the powder... prior to the fl machine I always bought liquid!.... I did use other he liquids once getting the fl... but I swithced to powder with the charlies... sinc my older children are now trying to help with the wash the powder is easier to clean up when they are done!!! :-(

Hi Nancy, "It was a mix of sunflower, olive, and coconut oils. I measured everything correctly" Make sure that your scale is consistently correct. "according to the book, the soap traced as it should, Well, if youÂre sure. "I added the Fos" Fos for soap, vice candles? "I then started pouring the soap into the mould and YUK! It look like it curdled and kinda separated once in the mould. " What FO did you use? (Let me guess, a white floral? ( What temperature did you soap at? (The cooler, the better. Try around the 100F to 110F mark "I poured it back into the pot and tried to remix it, but it didn't remix completely. " Are you using a stick blender? Hope so. I poured the mix back into the mould and let it sit until tonight. "Took it out of the mould and noticed it was kinda floating in an oil/water mix. I would guess total amount of the oil/water floating around was at 1/4 cup in a 4 lb batch. " (Guessing): Either the wrong FO, or it wasnÂt mixed thoroughly enough. My question is...do you think this is going to be safe to use? The back of the book mentioned separation...a little separation was OK, but a lot meant a caustic soap. I have never had separation. If you think about it, your superfatting would be around the 5% to 8% mark of the total recipe. If youÂre looking at the percentage of oils/fats floating around in the mold, then I would HP it. "if you think this stands a good chance of being caustic, " If you measured everything correctly, then it would be lye heavy because all of the fats/oils didnÂt mix in with the lye solution thoroughly enough. You could HP it (crockpot? Maybe?) Into soap. I donÂt care for HPÂed soap, itÂs usually rustic looking, but it is soap, nonetheless. Usually, if you post the recipe and method of soaping that was used, maybe others might be able to pipe in?

I'm not sure I'm understanding your question, but I'll take a stab at an answer. I also bought a Moen faucet from Ebay and the owner gave me a free soap dispenser (Moen Aberdeen). There should be a plastic bottle that attaches to the unit to hold the soap. It screws in to the dispenser just like screwing a cap on. If this was not supplied, you can buy a Never MT (highly recommended). This is a $8.00 purchase that allows you to hook up to a large bottle of detergent so you don't have to fill the soap dispenser but maybe once a year (based on usage and bottle size). It's easy to install too. People here swear by it, and I learned about it from this forum and have one also. You can read more about it from the attached link. Just arrow down to the "Never MT Conversion Kit". Deb Here is a link that might be useful: Never MT

Dave - soap solution will kill soft bodied pests like aphids. It is a contact killer but it would definitely will be better to use something castille soap or insecticidal soap made specifically for plants. The safe ones will say potassium salts of fatty acids. Some plants may still be sensitive to it and should be used with some caution. Alcohol solution is quite safe. It stinks up the place for a short time. Inside the house it will not leave unsightly residue on surrounding stuff - which is a big plus. Moinrules: If you have not seen any damage so far then you are OK. Usually the concentration used is 1 tbsp of soap per gallon of water. I usually use 2tsps per gallon and is quite effective. It has to be a real soap and not the usual dish detergent. Usually organic ones are made of real soap - sodium or potassium salts of fatty acids. Try to go for the one that says (if it does say at all) potassium salts. Castille is sodium based, BTW.