Thank you all for the great ideas. Sorry, it takes me awhile to get back to the computer. I'm thinking Garden Chicken's tecnique on the partially cured 'tufa might be the best way to go for a first project. She does want to write more than just the horse's name and dates so trying to do it on wet tufa might be pushing it. Leigh, those foam rubber letters reversed in the bottom of the mold would probably be great if she weren't going to need multiples of some letters. Marley, your mold making instructions came up when I did a search. I told my neighbor about the talented person who carves letters out of POP and makes her own silicone mold and she started thinking maybe a wooden cross might be OK. Of course this was after also explaining why If she wanted to have rebar sticking out the bottom to stand it in the ground instead of making the stone longer she should coat with epoxy. :-) For the recipe I'll probably use 1 cement,1 1/2 sand, 1 sifted peat, and 1/2 vermiculite. Right now the size is 1ft x 2ft x 3in. Were're hoping this won't be TOO heavy. We should probably try a small test batch first to practice carving. Sure wish I had a dremel. Sorry I can't promise pictures :-( That's one reason I don't post about my projects cuz I know how disappointing it is when there aren't any pictures. I did try awhile ago. My son finally brought his digital camera over and I took some pictures...then after several tries he finally brought the right CD over for downloading from the memory card. Afterwards our cpmputer was all messed up and spent 3 weeks at 'puter Dr.'s house....ended up having to order a new mother board... he said it wasn't our sons fault-just a coincedence but I'm not real anxious to let him try again. It sure is frustrating being computer illiterate. packrat2

Hi Bluepoppy, thanks for the compliments; I appreciate it. I haven't posted my "finished" pictures, because, well, I'm not finished. I have some painting left to do and want it to look beautiful when I announce it to the world. ;-) The faucet and dispenser are Kohler in polished nickel; faucet is Bancroft line. It is an unusual faucet, but worked well in our situation. This bath is a very narrow L-shape and we had just 19" for the vanity and countertop. We ordered a custom cherry vanity and granite top, and put in the smallest sink we could find. To make everything fit, I chose the single-post faucet and off-set it. It works really well -- four of us are using this bathroom now while the master is being remodeled, and we're all pleased with the faucet/sink layout. Here's a photo I had handy that shows a bit more of the room, from the hallway. The walls are a very pale sagey green. To the left of the tub is a linen closet; hopefully to be painted this weekend.

You did a fantastic job on your first big project, the worry factor is often the biggest obstacle, and proper research helps to overcome this issue...you did great asking the right questions and perhaps you are well on your way to becoming a seasoned weekend refinisher. There is a great sense of satisfaction in being able to "resurrect" old furniture pieces, many can been had cheaply because they're so ughhh! So here are a few extra hints to helps with the next project... 1). Use the powerful, nasty strippers, with methylene chloride, they just get the job done so much better than citrus strippers...gloves n goggles n good ventilation are important, you will love the fast results, use a green scotchbrite pad, rough steel wool, a stiff brush, etc. 2).strip the whole piece, never mind taping off areas unless the finish is pristine...chances are you will been able to do a much nicer job if you take the whole piece down to bare, especially once you learn how to seal, glaze n tone....shellac n stain powders/glazes are your friends... 3).automotive dewaxers are great, like ditzler/ppg # dx330....a big helps in cleaning up after stripping n neutralizing....helps to avoid contaminants like fisheye"silicone" and lets your get a look at the grain and possible spots, problem areas before your stain or seal the piece. 4).while your can always re-strip, sand or undo your work, try to think ahead and prepare...ie, test stain/finish underneath a tabletop first, dont stain or finish in the sun or winds at 90 degrees, read up , but only from truly problem sources, like mike dresdner, etc.. 4).have fun and dont be afraid, we all had to learn to walk and talk. There is great satisfaction in learning how to finish/refinish....drying times, dust free and stain/finish compatibility are the biggies, so dont worry, ask a lot of ??? And dont believe everything your hear.... 5).cheers, holla at me if ya want...veryspecialprojects@gmail.com....I only have three decades of finishing wood under my belt, but I'll try to help if I can....aloha

sarschlos: I remember your successful thread about your buffet and even noted down the steps, but you are right that I did not realize the importance of doing the buffing with the RAF--not beforehand. This has definitely been a learning experience which I intended it to be when I purchased these tables. I wanted to try on something else before starting on the DR chairs/table, though I've now come to realize this is a much more complicated project than I anticipate to DR set to be. I do think that there was no way I could escape needing to strip and refinish these tables--as there were different problems with each one. Seems the other table has fisheye from prior Pledge contamination and bobsmyuncle over on the woodworking forum recommends stripping that as well. Both looked to have a lot of lacquer/shellac that was probably incorrectly applied sometime in the past which led to these problems--and would also not allow the RAF to penetrate much, though I do notice improved results using the Murphy's Oil soap/RAF on the table legs (left table is the one that I used the RAF, right is not done yet): Even before refinishing, the stripped table looks so much better than either of the two tables before: Now I just need to figure out best way to refinish. Bobsmyuncle recommends first putting a couple of light coats of shellac to seal in the silicone (Pledge) contamination and the finish it. I'm wondering what type of stain/finish to use or even I need one at all as there still looks to be a lot of color in the wood and I don't want to darken the inlay. If anyone can recommend some specific brands to use, that'd be much appreciated.