I can't claim to be "expert" on any particular brand and I don't know if your Cub has a particular hardship "built in" (relating to remounting the deck belt), BUT....are you waiting until the last part of your "deck installation" to put the belt in place on the "pulleys"? I have always found it easier to get everything sort of "under the tractor" and try to hook the drive belt up first, then try to get the hanger pins/bolts into their respective mounting holes. You speak of "access to the hardware". You may have to devise some type of long "hook" or bent rod to reach in and pull the tensioner to a "slack position" while you work the belt into its pulley if the first trick I suggested will not work for you. Possibly a bona fide Cub Cadet owner/tech might give specific DIY info on your model. We have a few of those on the forum. Good luck.

Thanks TXSkeeter! I believe you could be correct on both issues. The Door Repairman that told me the doors would have to be replaced before selling was not trying to sell me doors. He was encouraging me to keep the doors. He said in the San Diego, CA area many are of this type (since hard winters are not expected). IâÂÂll try to contact him to see if he can help me find heavier springs. The openers have worked since the mid 80s (with repairs), they or I could use a little help. I feel one set has stretched more from âÂÂCyclesâÂÂ/Use because it feels heavier. As far as I know these type doorâÂÂs weight is not balanced to stand open at any point. The springs should carry the bulk of the weight. I have seen single and double sheet metal doors that were almost impossible to open due to broken springs. ThatâÂÂs the #1 reason I w/n want a double wide door. They are handy with todayâÂÂs Trucks. Plus, if the house w/n designed âÂÂGood Newâ with the span for the double door, I feel you will get some sag. There is 2.5 âÂÂof 2X4 just above the case openings below the 3/4â Ply 2 Cabinet Units mounted vs built in. The 2X4 can go if needed to fit panel doors due to screws cabinet to framing and threaded rod bottom of cabinet to above supports on top of truss ceiling joists. The Over Kill in the 70s was my nature âÂÂBut Not TodayâÂÂ. Brass bushings and tempered bolts are fitted in the arms to allow more years. We or I had planned to move bake to a Simpler Life after retirement but things and Grands have changed. We moved here in 1973 on the last street, now there are miles of streets/homes south of us to the next towns. Enough Said!

"Does the engagement lever itself feel secure in the tower?" There was a reason that question was asked. I'm referring to the engagement arm and how it is supported. On a 97 model, I seem to rememeber still had each end of the rod mounted on a rubber block rather than mounted through the plastic tower w/ a nut on each side. The new style tower i think got rid of the tilt steering feature too. The rubber mounted ones would pull out if they had too much tension on them- IE from the too small belt previously installed. By this time you also have notable wear in the arm and fastener on the top of the deck. That may contribute some as well. If you remove one of the fuel tank bracket nuts and swing it out of the way- the fuel tank will lift up so you can have a look at the control and cable. If the control rod slipped off of the tower, call 18003482424 and see if they will send you an updated tower.

How nice that you had a choice of two such fine machines to borrow! If my beloved BabyLock "new Espire" should develop a problem, all I would have is my old, very bottom-of-the-line Kenmore, as most of my friends don't sew, much less make quilts! I'm sorry I don't know anything about Berninas, and it looks as if no one else knows about a walking foot for that model, either. Oh, well, your troubles are over for the moment!