The Italian is adding her two cents... I'm not so sure about the rancid thing, but my main reason for not promoting olive oil is the price. I buy a LOT of olive oil and I'm picky about what kinds.. but the Mineral oil will go on "cleaner". there's no smell, taste or color to it and it's thinner plus bought by the gallon (or the barrel) it's MUCH cheaper. Where as with the olive oil depending on which press it is will have a green olive smell, taste and is harder to wipe off. It's a taste and smell I love but the cost is the big reason. Also I would highly doubt that it would go rancid on anyone's countertop unless you don't cook a lot. I wipe clean my countertops at least 3 times a day.. I'm a messy cook. Also I'll echo Francy, Ajax will not hurt the stone.. the deep scrubbing with Ajax may leave fine scratches, similar to what you would see on Corian or Cultured Marble in your bathroom. On another note, the Indian soapstone (Cobra, Python, Mumbia Grey) that we have large samples of in our warehouse do hold the patina for a good while, much longer then the Brazilian Black and Julia Soapstone. The Cobra and Python Soapstone from experience are a consistent harder stone (the stone while being cut has no "soft" spots it's hard through and through). I think that since that because the talc content is so consistent it plays a major role in why the patina last longer. The Brazilian Black and Julia soapstone that we carry has a lot of other minerals in the stone, thus the rusty swirls mixed with the black and green swirls. Those minerals act as more of a resistant to the patina forming. I may be repeating what Josh mentioned but I didn't read all his ramblings. :)

Apparently my searching abilities are feeble, because I can't find the GW post I just used to help me 2 weeks ago. I saved it to a word document so I am going to cut and paste it into here (HTH): RE: granite template being done today - many questions... Posted by franki1962 (My Page) on Wed, Feb 6, 08 at 11:49 Stolen from a previous post I think it dropped off this past week or so...the last post to it was 10/31. I have it saved. Here's a summary of it: When deciding on a fabricator: - See the installer's work, especially the seams; - Talk about what they do to make the seam really tight and smooth. Before Fabrication - Mock up the location of the faucets, soap dispenser, air switch, air gap, etc. before they come to fabricate. Be sure to account for clearances behind the sink as well as b/w each item. -- Make sure you have your sink/faucet templates (all sinks & faucets!) -- Make a list of all your appliances and the required clearances (sides, back, front, top). This applies to both appliances w/cutouts (e.g., cooktop, etc.) and stand alone (e.g., refrigerator, range, etc.). - Make sure you have enough of your lighting installed and functional - Make sure you have everything that requires a cutout before they fabricate. You want to have all of these on hand when they come for templating. - Post pictures for the TKOÂed of your slabs! Fabrication/Pre-Install - Be present for the template process. - Be there when they place the templates on your slabs, but if you can't be there then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam - Double check the template. - Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. - Measure the opening for the range. - Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly. - Make sure the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in. Saves big headaches. - Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from. - Check how close they should come to a stove - Make sure you have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter Installation - If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process. Possibly consider brown kraft paper to protect your floors. - Make sure your appliances are protected during the installation process. - Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture. - Somewhere you will have a seam by your sink because they cannot carry the small pieces after cutting out for you sink without breaking. Ask them to show you where it will be and if you are ok with it. Should be covered in the appropriately colored caulk. - Check the seams for evenness and smoothness. - Make sure the seams are neat and clean. - Make sure the seams are not obvious. - Make sure there are no scratches, pits or cracks - Make sure the granite has been sealed - Ask which sealer has been used on the granite. - Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around - Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions. - Keep an eye out for inconsistent overhangs on the counter edges - Make sure all your edges are identical - Make sure the laminate edge (if you have it) is smooth. - Check for chips. These can be filled. - Make sure the seams are butted tight. - If a cut-out or a seam is worked on OVER a drawer, be sure to remove the drawer and tape the glide. There have been instances where the granite dust destroyed the drawer glide. - Make sure that the top drawers open and close - Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter - Make sure you can open your dishwasher - Make sure you have proper clearances for all of your appliances. - Make sure you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances. - Make sure all your cabinets are still in the right place. - Watch when they apply the sealer, so that you know how to do it later. Post Installation - Post pictures for the TKOÂed - Enjoy your kitchen!

Update to the 6 & 10 Rule: It only applies when the 1/3 - 2/3 Rule of Cantilevering applies (1' can cantilever over 2' of cabinets). If your slab is 2 cm, you can have up to a 6" overhang without support. If your slab is 3 cm you can have up to a 10" overhang without support . If you are using a pony wall or cabinets with a depth of less than 2 times the depth of the overhang, then you need to provide support to equal at least 2/3 of the total depth of the countertop. . Thank you Joseph Corlett, LLC for the additional information!

ohhh noooo I wonder if they did indeed seal it. Here is an article that talks about this very issue. Maybe this can help you. http://www.countertopspecialty.com/haze-water-stains-after-sealing-granite-countertops.html https://www.houzz.com/discussions/had-honed-granite-put-in-today-husband-is-mad-help-please-dsvw-vd~445930