Instead of making one, why not use the lid of a very large storage bin as a tray? With so many types, I'm sure you'll find one that'll work.

Just buy a new catbox with a lid. I have one, reduces smell overall too.

guys, not to be rude, but I've already looked for other solutions.

a) I'm already using very large kitty boxes. Do YOU know of any storage bin lids that are at least 32"x32"? You'd think there would be such a thing, but I can't find anything that size. I've been hunting all over the place for one that would hold the two kitty boxes. I can't find one that size. So I'm making a tray of my own.

b) My cats will NOT use boxes with lids. The boxes have 24" high sides. There still has to be a low enough of an opening for the cat to actually get in. As I said, my cat is dumb. She still hangs her ass over the opening. I can't stand there 24/7 to ensure she doesn't do that.

Please...I'd like to get working on this project this weekend. Does anyone have any answers to my actual questions?

We have a 23 lb. cat and after trying everything we went with a plastic cement mixing tray, they are black and about 6 inches high. There are two sizes, large and small, and we went with the small one which is about 20 x 29. This has worked for us. Do not go with wood since it will absorb any spillovers (if you know what I mean).

Do not go with wood since it will absorb any spillovers (if you know what I mean).

That's why I want to seal the wood with something to make it non-porous. 20x29 is not big enough.

then get the large size tray.

Sorry, when I read it, I thought you said that was the larger one.

Where did you buy it -- Lowes, Home Depot?

homo depot - outside where the cement mix is.

I have eight indoor cats so litter box issues are something I have to spend a lot of time solving.

I use the large black plastic mortar mixing trays that one of the previous posters mentioned. I use the smaller of the two sizes, which I saw for sale at Lowes last night for a bit less than five bucks each. Be sure to get the ones with the completely smooth, flat, bottom surface, not the dimpled ones as that style is harder to clean out.

Now, your original question had to do with what to put under the litter box. I have a couple of suggestions:

You can buy large plastic trays that ordinarily are part of wire dog crates. They come in very large sizes (up 30" X 4, or I think 5, feet). If you google for midwest dog crates, then look for the replacement trays, you'll see what I mean. Now the down side of these is 1) cost - I think some are quite pricey, depending on the size, and I don't think they are very sturdy - certainly not as beefy as the mortar mixing trays, but they do have the advantage of being relatively low-sided and therefore nice, simple, underlayments for litter boxes.

Here's a link to one supplier for the replacment pans: (scroll down and look for the words replacement trays)

http://petcratesdirect.com/dog-crate-accessories.html

The next solution is to buy a special purpose plastic tray of the correct size to do the job for you.

Here is a supplier of a variety of plastic boxes and lids, some of which may be what you're looking for. (scroll down past the transmission cases to the group of specialty boxes to see if one fits the bill. I was looking for a large relatively low tub for using as a dip tank for putting preservative on double-hung window sashes, and these people had just what I needed, though the price was higher than I expected. They sell boxes and lids separately.)

http://www.hooversolutions.com/endural/products.php

And for what it's worth, here's a suggestion that might spark another solution for you. I recently found two small domestic bunnies hopping around a supermarket parking lot. While I foster them I need a cage with low, solid sides as the little hoppers pee through the wire sides of their cages - eeew! I solved this by buying pieces of that black vinyl cove molding used in cheapo bathrooms as "base board". Installed it along the inside walls of their cages last night, and have totally dry floors this morning. Problem solved, and for less than 4 bucks, as well!

Another solution for messy litter users that I have read about is using large plastic storage crates with a strategic entrance hole cut in the side at an acceptable height above the floor, leaving the top open. Unfortunately I never found ordinary plastic storage crates with completely flat, unchanneled or dimpled, floors so this never worked out for me, but perhaps you'll find additional ones.

HTH

Molly~

Hi,
In the plumbing department (loze or home despot) you will find metal or plastic trays that are put under hot water heaters and washing machines. Maybe these would work for you.
If not, consider feline pampers.
Casey

No luck on the cement mixing trays. Both the local Home Depot and Lowes had only the small size.

I took a look at the dog crate trays -- they're intriguing, but none of them are the right size. Part of the reason I want to build my own tray is that I'm trying to fit this in a VERY tight spot. If I could just stick this in the middle of a basement with wide open space, then a lot of the suggestions in this thread would be lovely, but I have very limited space (exactly 34" x 40") so trying to work with outside materials isn't working so well, since they are either too small (I have to fit both cat boxes on the tray) or too large (won't fit in the space). I'm starting to think I may have to go back to building my own tray.

If not, consider feline pampers.

She's not incontinent.

Oh, and Molly -- I already use rubbermaid storage crates for litter boxes -- they work really well. The sides are at least 20" high. But the "dumb" cat is quite fat...I can't make the opening too high for her, or she can't get in. And so sometimes when she gets in she just stands there without turning around, with her butt standing in the doorway, and pees. Hence the problem that started this thread.

Our male cat is also just a little monster sometimes, and when he's being persnickity, will pee just on the edge of the box. Why? I don't know. He just does, because he's a brat. Never getting a male cat again...

My cat used to do the same thing, it sure is a pain. I found a litterbox by Rubbermaid at my local Petsmart. The reason this box works well is because it has an opening for the cat that is also used as a "pour spout" for emptying the litter. You can't see it real well in the picture, but the "spout" is tilted toward the inside of the box. So, if the cat pees with her butt in the entry, the pee hits the "spout" and rolls back into the box. I found this box to be really helpful.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rubbermaid litter box

I understand cat issues. I mean, I can't solve them unfortunately but I understand how picky they can be...best of luck to you.

If you build a box, you can pretty much waterproof it with several coats of marine spar varnish. Um OK, it's spar urethane these days, not "varnish". I've used something called "Helmsman Spar urethane" or something like that. I think it's Minwax brand and available at big box and hardware stores. I haven't tested it on cat pee, but you can build up a thick plastic coat with it.

(My super fat lazy evil cat just tries to hang his butt over into a box now instead of getting in the box. I'm actually thinking of trying a pie tin--maybe he won't miss...)

Slightly off topic, but maybe be helpful to cat people. In my last couple of houses, I've been fortunate to have enough room in the attached garage to make a closet for the cat(s). I framed off an area big enough for 2 litter boxes and a little extra space. I connect the cat closet to the house with a cat door. In my current house I've even added a step and a motion activated night light. I love it, the smell and the mess is in the garage and out of the way. Its also convenient to empty the litter boxes. Because no lugging kitty litter around and the trash can is right there. My cats never had a problem using it, even when it was in a completely dark closet. Now its kind of funny to walk by the cat door and see the light on inside.

Construct the box the correct size. Line with a shower floor membrane (Home Depot, cut to the size you need) and then tile over it. Like a walk=in shower floor. It will be heavy, so you may want to put it on rollers.

ML (who doesn't have cats)

I use a washer pan under my litter boxes. It fits two medium sized boxes side by side. I haven't actually measured it but it's about 3 feet square. HTH! Good luck with your project.

Not that is will help the cat of the OP... but we have been doing great with litter boxes that are top-entry.. it solves so many problems!!! All of our kittens learned to use it in less than a day and it solved the little kicking problem and any *misses* that might occur.

Maddie

I was thinking of the plastic pans you put under the washer. Are they too big? Lowes/HD have them. I use puppy pee pads under my cat's litter box, because if I put plastic down she urinates on it. I turned the linnen closet into her litterbox room and store the litter and other pet stuff on the shelves. I cut a hole in the door and someday will actually get a cat door on there. I needed a seperate room so the dogs wouldn't get the kitty bon bons. Yuck. I use those throw away plastic trays with the litter already in them. Its pretty convenient. I couldn't use the bsmt because with the wide open space she would just go everywhere except the litterbox.

Why do cats pee over the side or on the edge? Because they can't say "F U" I suspect. Used to be a cat person but they got too uppity for me. I'm a dog person now.

Hopefully you will have found a readymade plastic tray or some such, but I agree you most certainly don't want anything porous like wood, no matter what you treat it with.

I'm not sure how much it would cost, but you could ask a sheet metal shop to custom fabricate a pan. They could make it to your exact specifications!

12 years later... what worked? I don't have access to a special "closet" to designate. My cat will not use a box with a lid. He can pee outside the top loading box while inside the box. Dear God, if I wasn't an animal lover, he would have had to move out by now. 3 months of pee on the floor - a round of antibiotics (JIK) an addition of a second box... uggg! He is so dumb! And he is an old man. Your plight intrigued me and I wonder what you ended up creating for your kitty?

Owner of dumb old man cat,

Richelle

I have a couple of cats who treat the litter box like a urinal. :( Even though they're neutered, they seem to be competing to see who can spray the highest -- fortunately, only in the litter box.

I bought the largest plastic tote bin I could find. I cut a 6" high cat-access hole in one of the short sides, starting 7" from the bottom. I also cut an 8" x 12" hole in the lid a few inches back from the access hole. This lets in light, and keeps them from feeling trapped (cats like to always have an alternative exit).

Then I filled it with a few inches of kitty litter, and clamped the lid on.

Voila! Everything stays in the box, including the spray.

I usually have to wipe down the inside of the lid when I scoop the box. But it sure beats having to clean the wall and floor!

If you still have trouble with a cat hanging his rear out the access door when he does his stuff, you might get a smaller tote bin to put inside the big one. Cut the access door the same size and place, but leave the lid off the smaller tote. That allows for a space -- a sort of a mess lock -- between the inner door and outer door. You still have to clean that space when he misses, but at least the nasty stuff doesn't go on the floor.

Pro tip: the easiest way to cut holes in plastic tote bins is to melt them with a soldering gun or iron with a small tip. Do it outdoors, because it makes noxious and possibly toxic smoke.