Trish - last things first. Blueberries. Plant lots and lots of blueberries. They grow well here. They handle full sun to part sun. They give lots of fruit compared to many other garden staples (at least for me). My only complaint is that there is no way to have them all year. I grow Garden Peas, Snow Peas, and Sugar Snap Peas in the part of the garden where I'm gonna plant Tomatoes and Peppers. I start the Peas in January (didn't this year due to the drought) after soaking them. I plant them in groups of 4-6 about 2 feet apart in rows that are 3 feet apart. My garden is covered with a plastic mulch with holes about the size of a paper plate every two feet in rows about 3 feet apart. I grow everything in these holes. The ground below gets worked up real well in the winter, it isn't level so when it rains or I water the water collects in the low spots an finds its way to the plants. Anyway - I put the large tomato cages over each mound of planted peas right after I plant. The peas emerge about now and climb up the cages. I start tomato and pepper seeds inside the house around now, they will be ready to plant outside in late April or early May. I plant them on the sunny side of the Pea cages. The Peas are ready for harvest in June. By that time I am working the pea vines over to one side to make room for the tomatoes. I cut the pea vines off at the ground and either un-weave them from the cages or I just leave them there to wither. I snip the pea clusters from the tips to harvest. The peas put nitrogen in the soil which helps the tomatoes and peppers and the peas tend to get all the attention of the aphids (which love nitrogen and therefore love pea plants). Sometimes the weather warms early and screws up this delicate dance and then I have to sacrifice some of the weaker pea vines to make room for the 'maters and peppers. I grow lettuce, arugula and spinach in simple cinder block cold frames with removable plastic lids sorta in the center of my veggie garden. By May the cold frame tops have been retired to the shed and the lettuce is at its peak. When the lettuce is done I plant greenbeans in the same space. There is a bit of overlap with the lettuce in rows and the beans in between them (but it takes a while for the beans to get up and going). All other crops are just planted in the garden, through the holes in the plastic. Once the weather heats up I spread mulch (leaves or old straw) on the plastic to keep it cool. I only have to weed anything that comes up through the holes where the plants are.

In today's world there are a lot of conveniences. One of them is being able to purchase almost everything, including dining room chairs, online. To make sure you have an enjoyable experience purchasing dining chairs online, make sure to do your research in advance so you know what you're getting before you make the purchase. The dining room chairs will be one of the first pieces of furniture that your guests will see and more importantly will be sitting in, so it is crucial to have a dining room that is both attractive in appearance and welcoming.

What methods do some of you use not only to list and categorize your "stuff" - but how do you know where to find it when you need it? Joyfulguy, I hope I never get so much stuff that I *have* to categorize it!! Could you sell or donate some of the things you haven't used in the last two years? I'm in the process of getting rid of stuff as i'm palnning to put my home on the market in April. That's another suggestion~just MOVE!LOL patty_cakes

This doesn't seem to difficult. When we put up tongue and groove paneling in our former diningroom, we transitioned to drywall in the kitchen. Does this company make prefinished trim pieces to match? If not, maybe you could match the stain yourself. I would think if you ran the pine right up to the cabinets, you could use a 1/2" (or what ever size needed) quarter-round piece just between the uppers and lowers to transition down to the stainless. For the countertop, I would notch out the countertop overhang material around the pine, or even notch out the pine to allow for the overhang (but this may not look as good due to the pine expanding and contracting). As for transitioning the stainless to tile, I would treat it like a transition between drywall and tile. Either just a staight caulked or grouted edge, bull-nose edge pieces, or pencil trim type pieces. I think your idea can absolutely work, just think on it a little more!