The steps for stripping, sanding, priming, reglazing and painting will all be the same as double hung windows. Feel free to use any of those publications as a guide. Casement windows are actually simpler since they are basically just panels on a hinge. The real art is going to be aligning the windows to the openings. The side away from the hinge has a tendency to sag over the years and the panel gets pulled out of square. If it is too bad, then that would probably take it out of the DIY range. Other than that, you hang them the same way you do a door. Once restored, you are going to need some weather stripping - just like a door. Also, they will need some sort of lock that holds the door snuggly in place. You could always keep the hooks for decoration and add a non-obtrusive latch.

How old is this house. If built in 1900-1920 the wood milled then was truer to size. That rot didn’t happen recently. It’s been building up over time. You probably need yo replace both window and framing to properly fit new window to eliminate problem. I would be concerned about wood condition below this window too. Water damage might go further. Best to figure that out too. Also, get checked for termites and carpenter ants. I know, it’s a pain but that’s just a part of home ownership. Good luck!

Thanks Klem1. Water is leaking behind the gutters on the front and back of the house. The gutters have been cleaned, so they are not clogged. There is evidence of water leaking along the back wall. I had the gutters replaced about 12 years ago which seems to be when the problems started. I called the installer back a couple of times. I have read as well that you dont need drip edge with slate but not sure how to fix the issue beyond getting gutters reinstalled or replaced. my neighbor has the same house build and looking over at her house during rain storm I see the same problem with water going behind the gutters on the front of the house. We did not use the same company for gutters. About the fascia I dont know. Initially I had a pest/wildlife guy come to get the squirrel out. He said there was wood damage and i needed repairs beyond his scope of work. He took photos and there is water damaged wood. I do not plan to replace the roof in the next 10 years though I have gotten one estimates to see if it made sense to repair versus replace. I had flashing around dormers replaced two or three years ago, which was another big bill. There was a leak. House was built in 1951. One of the roofers said the slate may be good but the underlayment deteriorates. Open to all recommendations.

Dennisgli, the installer is the one that told me all the bad things about vinyl. Everything that was wrong about operation, the seals, and the aesthetics, the installer blamed on vinyl in general and this product line specifically. After he said this, I found internet articles that seemed to bear it out — but I guess you can find any opinion on the internet. Since he said so many bad things about vinyl, I thought I for sure need not replace these with more vinyl! This is why I was asking about aluminum and Fibrex — that’s pretty much all I could find that isn’t vinyl. From these comments, I’m beginning to suspect that they just did a bad job installing and blamed it on the product instead of admitting it. I am perplexed. I think I may need to call the store and ask them to see if a different installer could fix the issues, maybe even reinstall the ones that are worst. And if a manufacturer’s rep could come out, maybe they could adjust the stubborn locks. Those of you who know about how the locks are supposed to operate: Is this a manufacturing defect or is it something that can be fixed? To recap: At first, I intended to call them only about the locks being too tight, and then I discovered that several windows would not close. When the installer came out, he said that this is just what vinyl is like — there will always be trouble with the seals and resulting drafts, and elderly people such as myself will never be able to operate them easily. When we had to call them back the next day to re-close more windows, that’s when the store supervisor agreed to replace them. It’s not that I am trying to be difficult. Replacing that many windows after hassling with them for a year is not a process I want to repeat. I appreciate the advice here. If the installers steered me wrong about vinyl and misled about the nature of the problems, I am open to suggestions other than replacement. I hate to think this of the installers, though. Except for the one who came out recently (who owns their company), I really, really liked the installers. Then again, they are the ones who didn’t miter (?) some of these correctly and then said that’s how they are supposed to look. 😕