This sequence may be helpful to someone taking out a wall. Addition is 12 x 26. We knocked out 26 feet of bearing wall at front of house. Girder trusses now bear the load. We had a construction company design consultant help us do the plan. Worth the money. DH and his squad of helpers worked from the outside in, but at a difficult day about a year ago, the wall had to come down. Wish I could show you the early work, but Flickr account has put the early photos into storage. The story picks up 5 months into the DIY project... Here is destruction day photo (red painted area is new area) Here is #2 after demo of the wall (note ceiling and floor) It was at this point that we moved the cooking into a camper trailer for 5 months. Here you can see new ceiling (upper right) meeting the old ceiling segments in former kitchen, stairwell, and front stoop. (Don't try to understand geography, just absorb the general concept that ceiling segs are merging.) Here we have removed former ceiling fixtures in original kitchen ceiling and installed wiring for a new light in our new kitchen hall. I've skipped the photos dealing with messing with insulation. This is where we were finishing new ceiling over new lobby. Rented jack scaffold for wallboard. Seam between old and new ceilings is red. Here is the beginning of trying to reconcile ceilings. DH used lots and lots of mud on this seam. This is the ceiling scar which persisted for many many days. Once we began painting, this area developed bubbles. (It's finally done bubbling, we hope.) The diagonal floor was made in 1954. The rest is new, including redone old front hall which now incorporates part of previous garage. Here is the eventual floor--can you find the merged section? You sorta can if you physically walk to the door opening at upper left because the floor had dipped 1.5 inches about a foot from the threshold, but we're generally proud of how things went. By the Install Day for countertops, the ceiling seems to look pretty good. I wish I had more appropriate photos that show the merged ceiling and floor, but I don't.

If you are looking at LVL beams, you should have a table similar to this one, which gives you the guidelines for height and width of beam required. https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/application/files/8514/9517/9127/1484260463_TB-551.pdf  Based on my reading of this table (maybe I'm not correct) you may need quite a bit taller or thicker beam for the span. You also need to determine how the load transfers to the floor underneath, and verify that it has sufficient strength. The original wall had multiple points in the floor evenly supporting this area, and now you will have a post that puts a much heavier direct load on a small area. You may need a basement support below, or thicker concrete under that post. Do your calculations and plan, and then hire a structural engineer to verify the calculations and sign off on the plan. This will reassure you, and keep the AJH happy. The reason I suggest getting the data together yourself first is that engineers don't all work on this type of homeowner construction job, and its better to simplify the question for them. If the engineer has to find the load tables for your specific brand of LVL beam, and do all the other data gathering himself/herself (find data on supports under the post, etc.), it will take that much longer. Bruce

@cawaps the 90’s were wild for architectural angles for sure. Thankfully our house is not too bad with angles, some in the neighborhood are rough. Sure, I get that lots of people rush remodels ect, but there’s a way to say that without coming off as rude (as you explained the point in a respectful way). I do think DavidR’s initial response was more judgement for remodeling a kitchen in a house we purchased by implying we bought a house that we didn’t like and are wasting money in making it function better. When in reality, we love this house and found a unicorn in a highly sought after neighborhood, best school district in our state, walkable to downtown, and underpriced just needing some love. ANYWAY - for us, it’s way easier to remodel (our floors need some patching and repair in damaged areas too) before we FULLY move in. We were cooking and in the house while we made worked out our design. I also have a background in design, as do two close family members. Not everyone blindly jumps into a remodel. :)

Hey all! Just recently bought a home in Arkansas. It’s a truss ceiling so I’m almost confident it’s not load bearing............just want to make sure. attached are pics of the case opening and from the attic. You can see it is a truss ceiling and the wall doesn’t appear it be directly under it. Any advise is helpful as im attempting to demo that wall!