Scrimp and Splurge - Where'd you hold back, where'd you go nuts?
14 years ago
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Radial arm saws, where'd they go?
Comments (38)I am going to "dredge up an old thread" because it's so difficult to find good information about radial arm saws. A great deal of information is wrong, or misleading. Even the wood working forums have very dogmatic posts about them, which stick to the old narratives, and aren't based on facts. I own 7 radial arm saws, and I have been studying them daily for 6 months. I bought 7 radial arm saws, to try to get to the bottom of all "rumors" and "myths" about radial arm saws. The biggest myth of all, one that is totally wrong, is that "you should not rip boards" on a RAS because it's "more dangerous than crosscutting." In fact, the opposite is true! I am now using my 1978 Craftsman aluminum radial arm saw for daily use. It's a 10" blade, 10 amp 120 volt saw, model 113-1977. The saw cuts so accurately, it's astonishing. This is considered a "cheap" saw. But in reality it's an extremely good design with almost no flaws. These saws are far better than their reputation would suggest. Some things I've learned about Radial Arm Saws: -The bad reputation of radial arm saws is due to user error, and myths being spread about them on the internet. -Radial arm saws require advanced machine and tool knowledge. They are not a "plug and play" fixed tool, with fixed settings. -Once a radial arm saw is adjusted they are absolutely dead accurate in both crosscuts and rip cuts. -They are not dangerous to use for rip cutting, if done properly. The stories you hear about "bad kickbacks" are likely always the result of improper operation. -In actuality, cross cutting is by far the most dangerous operation on a radial arm saw. Because the blade carriage moves freely on ball bearings, and you can pull the spinning blade towards you at any time, with barely any force required. -I've never found any stories of anyone losing a finger from rip cutting on a RAS. However, there are many stories of people losing a finger while doing a crosscut, while pulling the blade towards their body. These stories were people who had limited experience. -Obviously, pulling a spinning blade towards you, while doing a crosscut, is extremely dangerous. Ripping a board does not require moving the blade, and so the blade cannot "accidentally" come towards your body. This makes rip cutting inherently safer. -A table saw is more dangerous than a radial arm saw, for ripping boards. Because most table saws are used with the blade entirely exposed, with no blade guard and no anti-kickback pawls. A radial arm saw is always used with the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls installed. -My "cheap" 1978 Craftsman saw does beautiful rip cuts. The cuts are dead accurate, without a single blade mark, and no burning. -Using a push stick, and a push block for rip cuts and for holding small parts during crosscutting. Never put your hand near the blade, or in the path of the blade. -You can just as easily "push" a radial arm saw into the wood. The wood will not go flying, unless you are cutting unsafe, round shaped or warped material. Hold the wood down firmly or clamp it down. -A radial arm saw is so quiet, you can run it all day without hearing protection. It's literally half as loud as a Skillsaw! This is because there is no gearbox (worm gears) in a radial arm saw. They have a direct drive motor, and so they are extremely quiet. The dogmatic rumors about radial arm saws have ruined some of the public perception of them. The stories of them being dangerous for "rip cutting" are entirely unfounded, because most of the stories of bad amputations on radial arm saws are from "crosscutting" not ripping. Yes, rip cutting can be extremely dangerous, but not more dangerous than using a table saw. A table saw is the most dangerous saw in existence, and causes more amputations than any other saw (in my opinion). Table saws are used without a blade guard, and one wrong move or a slip, can allow your hand to go straight into the blade. The blade also tries to "twist" the wood out of your hand, which inadvertently draws your hand straight into the spinning blade. A properly set radial arm saw cannot "twist" the wood during a kickback, because the wood cannot "climb" up onto the outside edge of the blade. The design of a table saw is extremely dangerous, although people rarely talk about how you shouldn't use one. I'm posting this to try to dispel some of the incorrect dogma which is focused on the radial arm saw, for no good reason. In reality, all circular saws are extremely dangerous. As a result of all the misinformation and vague rumors about radial arm saws, I fully believe that radial arm saws are due for a resurgence in popularity. I am writing this post on March 5, 2022. At the time of this posting, you can purchase a good used radial arm saw for $40 to $75. Many good clean radial arm saws are being left out in the rain, and so in the future, a good clean saw will be impossible to find. At the time of this writing, there is an incorrect belief that a sliding miter saw is the "same" as a radial arm saw, but better. But in reality a radial arm saw has a universal motor that can be used as a grinder, a buffer, a sander, a metal cutter, a wood cutter, a dado cutter, a wire brush tool, a drill, a mill, and a planer. Anything you can "imagine," you can probably do with a radial arm saw. That's why they are due for a huge renaissance in popularity. If you buy a radial arm saw, forget all the negative stuff that is said about them. Read the owners manual, follow the instructions and make the correct adjustments. Then you'll have an amazing tool that can be used for hundreds of wood working operations. My favorite tool is the radial arm saw, which is why I now own 7 of them. This post is only my non-expert opinion. Please do your own research, use your own discretion and caution. Read the owners manual on your saw. Always follow the proper safety guidelines in your owner's manual. My 1978 Craftsman 10" RAS....See MoreWhere'd my orioles go?
Comments (15)2 & 3 yrs ago only had 1 male come to nectar feeder for a couple weeks. last year had both male and female come to grape jelly and nectar feeder for a couple weeks also. this year we set out 3 feeding stations with nectar feeder, grape jelly and a bowl of diluted grape jelly. had multiple males and females coming to all 3 feeders. the males likes solid grape jelly the females likes the diluted grape jelly. our first sighting for orioles were may 3rd. they stopped coming by may 25th. they disappeared for about 2 weeks and returned June 6th. by June 30th starting seeing baby orioles. we have been blessed to see parents and babies playing and flying from tree to tree in the trees that surround our property and also feeding at 1 particular feeding station....See MoreReality bites - dealing with budgets
Comments (14)I hadn't been following your kitchen posts, so I went back and looked. The biggest problem with your kitchen is not hickory or maple. It does need some color, but the biggest issue is the layout. That kitchen was built to wash dishes, not to cook. About 2/3 of the kitchen is dedicated to a sink and DW while the food storage and cooking are crammed into the remaining third. I would not put more money than a can of paint and a rug or mat or two to break up the floor and give some comfort underfoot unless I was able to fix the underlying problem. The problem is how to do that. I have a prep sink in my island across from the cooktop. My DW and larger sink are across the room. It works well for us, but I have my cooktop in the middle of a 9 foot run, so I have some room to work. And my kitchen is a little more than a foot wider than yours, and my aisles are still at the narrower end. I have 34" cabinet depth for my island, so you would probably be limited to 21" vanity cabinets plus top to put you right at 24". You can get a 15" prep sink into one -- that's what I have. I do think that would be some improvement, but it doesn't fix the fact that so much valuable space is underutilized. You can test the idea with some boxes, a narrow table. If you want to test it in action, even get a commercial kitchen table like this one and then find another use for it (garage, potting bench?) or sell it (link below): I would suggest looking at whether you could rearrange some of the existing cabinets to keep roughly the same footprint but gain some better used space. To make that work, at least one of the fridge or pantry has to move (could be both) and it looks like the fridge would give you the most space. I would look at moving the DW to the other side of the sink, moving the fridge (including the cabinet above and surround) and possibly the narrow cabinet next to it and put them on the end of the run near where the DW was. You would have to figure out how to place the door cabinet where the DW would go and the drawer stack on the end. Both walls have a little give on the ends, so you might get lucky with the measurements. If not, then talk to the cabinet guy about cutting one down or making one to match -- or fill a space by finishing sides with a skin and putting in shelves for baskets, a pullout towel bar for the sink, or if on the stove side, maybe a pullout or tray cabinet. If you want to try both, I would try the pantry on the other side of the dining room doorway. You could also look at flipping that with the fridge against the wall on the DR end and the pantry at the other end, but you want to make sure you don't close up your sink and DW too much. If you lose a corner cabinet over there, then you could look at a small peninsula with a prep sink in that corner. Treat the cabinets like puzzle pieces and see what you come up with -- or post the measurements and let folks help you. You can look at a narrow island or a peninsula, but neither one is going to give you the room you want for seating without being in an aisle. You could give the girls a pint sized table in that area for play and eating -- then move into a bistro set or a couple of reading chairs and a side table. Or try a bench -- possibly a narrower table, a circle or a square that will give you a bit more room coming into the room. Here is a link that might be useful: John Boos Table...See MoreRead Me If You're New To GW Kitchens! [Help keep on Page 1]
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