help with sewing formal gown

16 years ago

Hi All-

What a great source this site is for helpful advice! I've been on the kitchens forum for years, but now that I just got a new sewing machine (my first Pfaff), I plan to spend more time on a hobby I truly enjoy.

My first project of the new year is sewing a formal gown for my daughter for what I'll call "college prom". I have about 1 month to complete it, but I do work best under pressure and I have made similar gowns before, so I'm not too worried.

One aspect that is new to me is using an underlining in addition to a lining. The woman at the fabric store told me that was most common in strapless gowns so it lays nicer and has more support. The dress I am making is Butterick 4918. A sewing friend of mine suggested also putting in a waist stay, which the pattern does not address. She said that will help the skirt's weight pull from the waist rather than the bustline. I have found little info as to how to do this. I'm guessing I would sew the grosgrain to the dress/underlining waist seam allowance very close to the seam. One source said to leave an opening in the darts at the back of the dress bodice lining to pull the stay through. The pictures were rather poor, but wouldn't that make the stay feel like it was riding up a little and possibly not lay flat-ie, make kind of a bump in the back? Anyone use this method before, or is it unnecessary? Is there a better way to do it? Any opinions would be appreciated! Thanks.

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Comments (4)

bonnie-w
16 years ago
Hi:
I have not used the waist stays before, but have done under lining. The waist stay is usually put in a bustier not in a dress. Its there to help prevent the bustier from riding up on the wearer. But you do need the underling. I just made a bustier for a client and used a iron in interfacing on the fashion fabric to stabilize it. Then the underling with the boning sewn in. Make sure you use a good sturdy fabric that will take the stress. I use a good drapery lining. Then the regular lining. The bodice should fit snuggly but comfortably. If fit properly the wearer should not have to wear a bra. But if she is not very busty you can put in cups to enhance the look. For the cups try your local bridal shop, they are usually better quality and look more natural.

Hope this help

Bonnie
suska6184
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks, Bonnie, that does help! The fabric store woman said regular lining for the underlining would be fine, but I thought that's so light, is it even worth the effort? I never thought of drapery lining! I will go back to the store today, because I really need to get this cut out. I was going to sew the boning to the backside of the lining, but with a sturdier underlining, that is a better choice. Unless I hear of a reason why I need to do the stay, I'll skip that, because the pattern never mentioned it either.
I do get to skip the cups. I know so many girls who are far more enhanced than their mothers, mine included. Why is that :-o
Thanks again- wish me luck!!
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bonnie-w
16 years ago
Hi: Glad I could help and Good Luck. I'm sure the dress will look great and your daughter in it.

Bonnie
cindyandmocha
16 years ago
I made a prom dress for a friend's daughter about 2 years ago. My best friend was a "duct tape dummy". I found the instructions on the web, but it was awesome.

Since her daughter was still in school, and i was at my home, the duct-tape-dummy was invaluable for pinning and placing when she couldn't be here.

It took 3 rolls of duct tape and about 3 hours, and that was it. The instructions are easily googled on the web.

help with sewing formal gown

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bonnie-w

suska6184
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help with sewing formal gown

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bonnie-w

suska6184Original Author

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cindyandmocha

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suska6184
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