All depends upon where you live and what your building and energy codes say. Typically, the glass will have to be tempered glass if the proximity to the floor is less than 18" and the size of the pane is 9 square feet or more. Also, you will likley need low-e, argon fill, and also potentially some sort of coating to control solar heat gain. But again, all this depends upon where you live and what your codes require. Call you code office.

Good morning, I was watching the Twins trounce the Red Sox last night while typing my reply. Unfortunately, as I reread my reply this morning I can see that my attention was wandering a bit... I am very familiar with the article on laminated glass that you posted. It discusses a several different issues, but the primary ones are laminated glass delamination involving tempered and heat strengthened glass and laminated glass performance (delamination) comparison between two different (both PVB) products - Dupont B14 and "Type X". Dupont no longer manufactures B14 PVB. They upgraded their formulation about three or four years ago to B5 PVB. The "Type X" PVB, noted in the article, has also been upgraded since the article was written. The fact that the materials were changed should not suggest that the older versions were flawed; it was really just the result of ongoing R&D by both companies. Glass that has been either tempered or heat strengthened is not flat. Depending on a number of different factors, including (very much) the skill of the tempering furnace operator, this glass can potentially be very - un-flat. There are several different permutations of this un-flatness, and all of them are of potential concern when trying to laminate either tempered or heat strengthened glass. While some of these concerns relate strictly to the appearance of the finished product, others can relate to manufacturing processes that can result in potential edge delamination or sunburst patterns. I can go much more in depth on the cause and effect of these issues, but the article did an excellent job of explaining them although I donÂt completely agree with all of their conclusions. Moisture and laminated glass is still a consideration for the window manufacturer. They have to ensure that their window design does not trap water in the lower edge glazing reglet when using laminated glass. You donÂt want PVB sitting in water because it's going to cause problems. Manufacturers are very much aware of the tendency of PVB to suck up moisture, and windows using laminated glass are designed and manufactured to take this into account. This shouldn't be a homeowner concern, specially when installing a higher quality window. Consider that window manufacturers have a pot-load of money tied up into a window like the one you are considering, from R&D to material cost to manufacturing, and they DO NOT want that window failing in the field for both the cost of replacement, and especially their quality reputation. Warranty issues as you question really relates back to the fact that IGU and laminated glass are entirely different critters. There is no specific warranty on the LoE2 (Cardinals nomenclature) coating, for example. Cardinal does offer a 20 year IGU warranty to the window manufacturer, but it is strictly on the IGU seal. This warranty has no bearing specifically on either laminated glass or window coatings. An IGU made with laminated glass will still have the 20 year IGU warranty, but the warranty against delamination is a separate issue. If you install laminated glass should you anticipate delamination at 5 years? No, not at all. Car windshields have been using laminated glass for a very long time and how often do you see a delaminated windshield? Car windshields use pretty much the very same PVB as does the architectural products with the primary exception that windshields are manufactured using a lower adhesion product. Windshields are designed to delaminate on impact (hopefully saving a life in doing so), while architectural and residential laminates use higher adhesion products specifically to avoid delamination.

The first part of the trick to getting inconspicuous plastic laminate seams is to cut each butting piece simultaneously. Clamp both pieces about 1/4" apart and run a 1/2" double flute bit on a router between them guided by a clamped straightedge. After the contact cement has "dried" (squeaky when you drag the back of your fingers over it) 1/4" dowels are laid every foot or so to allow the piece to be positioned without sticking.The second part of getting a tight seam is to stick the first 4" or so of the seamed edges together, leave a dowel, pull several dowels and stick the piece. Pull the dowel between the stuck sides and work the hump to flat toward the seam. Too much hump and you'll split the laminate, too little and your seam won't be as tight as it could be. It's exciting. After the laminate is stuck and rolled you may have a bump somewhere. If so, you have to guess if it's just a glue goober or a chip contamination. With a plywood or MDF substrate, you can cover the hump with a board and whack it with a hammer to flatten it, no matter what it is, however, if it's a chip between new and old laminates, your new one is probably going to suffer badly. This is really exciting. Good luck.

Will very light coil laminate’s rust cause no spark? That is all I could find troubleshooting my blower that had no spark. It was new to me about 1990 for 15.00. It has always started for it’s once or twice a year use. It actually started on ½ choke as normal and went to full power then it stopped. All test and a personal feel for a low spark showed no spark. I felt I would find points even though I was told in about 1990 it was like new. The owner started the blower and ran it as he said the two cycles are too temperamental. That is the original plug but I gauged no spark on two spark testers. Plus, my fill for spark, “Only” after I saw no spark vs my usual fear. Fuel was not the issue but I’m going to 50:1 Synthetic Mix from the 16:1 as labeled. Initially I felt it could be too much work until I noticed the Blower Housing was just below the Flywheel Housing (in independent sections to see the Ignition System). I lightly sanded the flywheel’s magnets and coil’s laminates and felt and saw spark with a turn by hand. I could see the coil to flywheel’s magnet’s gap was “Business Card Thin”, .010 or less. PS. A trimmer across the street heard I was into BBQ and Firewood. He trimmed two Pecan trees and cut the wood to be used for BBQ or Firewood, “Next Season”. A Mid Day’s Chore!