>>Interesting! I had no idea rust is common for 1st year KBG lawn, although I did notice young grass (2-3 month old) got rusty after a period of humid weather. All grass wilted to the point of extinction. Then,miraculously, young seedlings started to come out from almost dying grass and quickly flourish the lawn again. And as if this 2nd generation are fortified with altered gene that the grass became more resistant to rust disease. I have been quite curious about this observation. In the right weather conditions, it's pretty common, and younger grass is more susceptible to it. In locales where evening dew doesn't sit on the lawn all night, it's going to be an extremely rare observation. For me in Pennsylvania, capital state of humid fall weather, I've never seeded a lawn and NOT gotten some rust or red thread. It's rare that it completely kills the crown and blade, so your grass simply recovered from it. Yes, the infection does stimulate the plant's immune system, plus the grass had gotten a little older and, hence, more resistant to the disease. So it's normal that you'd suddenly have growth that wasn't susceptible any longer (although it probably still had rust, it just couldn't get bad enough to show). >>Problem is, overseeding seems to only repeat this fiasco all over again. This late spring the rust fungus were so spooky that not even the 2nd generation could cope well, combined that with server drought and local water restrictions. It does. Your newest grass is wide open to infection, and once it has a good place to breed, it tries to spread. Combine that with water restrictions and that also weakens the grasses. >>But this year I think I can do something different. :) I don't mind spotty lawn for as long it's KBG all the way. This lawn is still experimental for me. Rust is one of those diseases that's easy to beat. It detests a shifted pH on the grass surface (not the soil so don't fiddle with that while seeding). A very light overspray with 1 tbsp baking soda and 1 tsp liquid soap in 1 gallon water will kill rust on contact and provides about a week of protection even if you water. Nobody can figure that one out, but I just say it probably stimulates the plant's immune system and stop worrying about it. Rust dislikes nitrogen, so good feeding of your lawn will tend to depress it out--the lawn can grow and develop faster than the rust can spread. My last full renovation was organic, and although I got rust, I didn't get very much. Trichoderma fungus, a vampire fungus that consumes other diseases, will slow, stop, or eradicate rust depending on the conditions. Trichoderma is easy to add, simply apply 10 pounds per thousand square feet of corn meal or cracked corn. It won't harm your lawn, and actually gives it a very weak, very gentle feeding. It's best to apply the corn when you seed to give the fungus time to propagate.

Brenda, I have grown sweet peas since my very first garden and I don't think there is one I don't like. They are the ultimate cottage garden flower and have a scent to die for! Most varieties have the classic sweet pea scent from my experience. I like the rippled and bi colored for their showiness but nothing can beat the Spencer's for scent and size. Mollie Rilstone, Painted Lady and King Size Navy are among my favorites as well as the Streamers collection. Swallowtail Seeds and Thompson & Morgan carry an impressive variety of sweet pea seeds. Fragrant Garden Nursery in Oregon is also a suppier you might try although I have not had experience with them myself. You cannot be disappointed with sweet peas! They are heavenly! Just remember to plant early as they start best in cool weather. :) Hope this helps. Ginny

You have to think about zones, too. Most of the people who have been successful with Great Expectations seem to be in zone 5. As a hosta lover, you're lucky to be in 5, it seems to be the perfectly balanced spot. We can't have all those lovely things that grow in zone 6, or better yet, zones where it doesn't freeze, but nature gives us spring bulbs and hostas. I'd buy anything that catches your eye and is in your budget. Just remember to check how much sun they like before you plant. As a general rule, the less green the hosta has, the more light it needs. Anything that says plantaginea (probably messed up the spelling) likes more sun. Blues like more shade and only dappled sun if you want them to stay blue. And they all like to be kept moist. Of course, there are exceptions. Great Escape is a mix of blue and white. It follows the blues in not liking a lot of sun. The white rim burns. If you post on the forum, there's always someone who's already growing your hosta variety and can make suggestions.

Wow thats pretty expensive, I hope the 108/tree includes shipping. Your trees do look leggy but so does my Honeyhart and Dr. White. In fact, my grafted trees I picked up at the farmers market looks almost identical to yours and even came in the same type of container. Cherimoyas do grow very fast and you can easily shape it into a beautiful tree. Be sure to shape the tree properly or else it will be very difficult to hand pollinate the flowers when your tree gets larger. Keep us updated.