If you are most concerned about the soil conditions and the availability of nutrients specifically for the Leylands, then take your soil samples just from those areas these trees inhabit. Yes, the nutrients levels may differ from location to location throughout the property but it is unlikely they will differ substantially enough to make a significant difference on what you may need to supply, if anything. Soil testing labs generally suggest that for landscape purposes, you take multiple samples from different areas and mix together for submission. If the trees seem to be growing well (although maybe not quite as fast as you'd like :-)) and have good color, then mulching with nutrient-rich organic matter - like compost - may be all that is required. Wood based mulches, while commonly used for trees, break down very slowly and therefore release any nutrients very slowly. Compost delivers nutrients faster because it breaks down/decomposes faster and that's one of the reasons many prefer to use a longer lasting type mulch that doesn't need to be replaced as often. But it also tends to deliver more N compared to wood mulches as well as a broader range of trace or minor elements. In areas where they grow well without a lot of disease issues (like in the PNW), Leylands can make an excellent screening tree, especially where they have the freedom and room to grow naturally. There is a screening row of Leylands next to me on my neighbor's property and I rather like them :-) But there's more than enough room for them to play nice. And I like sheared Leyland hedges as well, although unless you have the time and dedication to maintain them properly as needed, I wouldn't recommend them for everyone. Leylands tend to have a bad rep because they have frequently been planted in unsuitable situations. And they do have some disease issues in certain areas. But just like any other plant, they do have their good features and serve a useful purpose if some thought and good judgement is used before siting and planting.

Budgeting is where foreknowledge really pays off. Along with the ability to resist making change orders. Also needed is the ability to resist the urges of "while we are at it" and "it's only a little bit to upgrade" and similar costly phrases. It's extremely rare for a change order to save you money! The budget must include plans, permits, labor (some as crew/s and some individuals), materials for the construction itself, HVAC, earthmoving (basement, driveway, foundation and possibly septic and/or water), supervision and scheduling (those two items are prime reasons why GCs earn their money), appliances, tiles and other flooring, roofs, counters/builtins, doors, and windows. The cost of the last six items can make or break your budget and yet are the easiest to control with careful pre-planning. The cost of "earthmoving" is nearly impossible to control -- you take the sub's estimate, silently add 25% to a figure that will make you gulp, and then cross your fingers that neither boulders nor streams become involved. No one here can tell you what a reasonable budget may be for your circumstances. You have to balance your present savings, future reliably expected income, and whatever the bank thinks you are qualified for (which probably won't be as much as you think) against the size, location, and design of the house. Make as many decisions as possible in advance, and hunt for sales on items you know will be needed (storage is cheap after saving the first hundred $ is saved) because materials are one category you can reasonably come under-budget [pay less than expected]. Become familiar with the neighborhood you want to live in -- study real estate ads and then learn the usual tax assessment for houses similar to yours in your neighborhood. And this is a good place to say that it isn't smart to build a house more expensive than average... it won't be valued as such but it will cost you more in building, taxes, and upkeep. I recommend that the total cost of your new build not exceed 75% of the neighborhood's average house value. If the market is competitive (thus raising values) then your cost should be closer to 50% of local sale value. Get bids (and research all references, licences, bonds) from potential GCs on your detailed contract, and talk with the lender. You must be able to afford the mortgage payments without financial strain as well as needing 20% to 25% of the total cost [in available case] for the lender, and -especially if earthmoving is involved- another fund of $20,000 or 10% [whichever is larger) to cover unexpected expenses. There WILL be unexpected expenses... Remember not to sign anything you don't understand, and don't sign any contracts until you are absolutely positive that you can afford the consequences. If, after all that, you are sure you want to build... welcome to the club!

Oh, well, we've been in our current house since the middle of January, and still not completely unpacked. Mostly just books and vases left to go, still in boxes in the garage. (Plus a few boxes of sentimental stuff that I don't know what to do with.) So I would say, "Don't sweat it too much." Unpack and put away things you need right away, but remember that just because you put it somewhere doesn't mean it has to stay there. The cupboard you think will be just right for storing pots and pans may be the place you decide later on is just right for storing the baking dishes, instead. Or the closet you were going to use for the cleaning supplies works out better for sports equipment. That sort of thing. Be flexible and think how *you* want to use the house. We have a foosball table in our den where the tv is. Works for us right now, but we may move it somewhere else later. Our dogs have their own space that leads outside ... I think the previous owners used it as a breakfast nook. And shelving is always a good idea. I'm a fan of having enough boxes and shelves and cupboards. Having things where you can find them is a big step toward not owning too much - no duplicates purchased in a hurry because the originals couldn't be located. And congratulations! A first house is exciting.

Hello everyone, I just recently moved into my apartment and currently only have some furniture from my old flat, which I dont really like. Therefore I am currently trying to think of how I want to redesign it and buy all the furniture over the next few monts. Unfortunately I have no real sense of what looks good together, what details to look out for and how to match colors. I am trying to keep it simple and modern. So far I have tried to design it with an online room planer (see link below), since I just cant imagine how a piece of furniture would look like in real life... Link to current Situation (Design Dilemma) & Future https://imgur.com/a/RA9fmIG Some things I want to mention: The couch in this simulator, I already have, I will get it from my sister since she is getting a new one. I will also keep my desk, everything else will be replaced (TV-Stand, Cupboards, etc.) Overall I like it how it looks so far although there are a few issues: Rug. I really like the rug but am not able to find it anywhere. What rug would you recommend? TV-Stand: I am not the biggest fan of this lightgrey TV-Stand. I was thinking about a lowboard that has a dark brown frame and a little white to it. Something like this: https://www.beliani.at/tv-stand-light-wood-with-white-eerie.html Also should I add something else instead of the cupboard with the books above the cupboard to decorate the wall? Big wall art: I don't have a big wallart for the wall yet, this one is just temporary and I'm sorry that it is not centered ;-) Cupboard below the Art: Does a cupboard fit there? I will have one cupboard next to the desk and I really need some storage space. Any recommendations? It just looks really clumped. What else could I do with this space? Without anything there it looks empty Any other help, ideas, tips are really appreciated. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!