For whatever reason, aggregate from recycled concrete is generally not, I believe, regarded as a suitable type of aggregate for new concrete. It is, as I said, used for making asphalt roads, but concrete and asphalt do not work in the same way to make a suitable road surface. Usually gravel or crushed rock is used for concrete. Or if you meant just tossing the chunks of old concrete into the new pour, to reduce the amount of new concrete needed, this is not a good idea. New concrete bonds only very weakly, if at all, to already solid, old concrete. No reputable concrete contractor will agree to do this for you, and you would soon be very unhappy with the result if they did. Look around your property and see if there is anything you could do with the chunks of broken concrete that will result from removing the garage slab. I suppose you could use them like rock and build low "stone" walls, but there will be no disguising the fact that it's just old concrete, and won't really be very attractive.

In terms of general construction - The vertical wood parts are called stiles. The horizontal parts are called rails. If the door is divided into multiple panels, it would have additional vertical components in the middle called mullions. If all of the pieces are intact but just shrunk or shifted slightly over time, you can just take it apart, glue glue up the stiles and rails, clamp it back together until the glue sets, and you'll have your permanent repair. If you don't want to glue it, an alternative is to clamp it up square and then replace the damaged mechanical fasteners in the corners. The fasteners themselves probably didn't fail and have probably just shaken loose over time and damaged the wood immediately around them. You would have to remove the fasteners, fill the holes with epoxy, re-drill and replace the fasteners. If one of the "tonges" from the rail is broken off in the stile, repair ranges from relatively easy to "complete pain in the butt" depending on their shape. If it is a standard rectangle, you are in luck. You can route out the rectangle that was originally there in the stile and then route an identical one in the rail. Then cut a piece of wood that is twice the size of the original "tongue" so they fit together like [-]. This will provide plenty of surface area to glue everything back together. If you are comfortable will basic woodworking, you can repair a door. You'll need to take your time taking it apart so you don't damage any other pieces and you'll definitely need to take your time squaring it up when putting it back together. Before you attempt any repair though, I'd head to the library and pick up a book on cabinet making. The principles are exactly the same for making a cabinet door as they are for making a door for a room.

I'm trying to wrap my head around what would cause the paint crack like that. It's obvious it is failing. We know that much. But why so soon? I have painted cabinets down in my dank basement that haven't seen new paint since decades before lead paint was banned. Yes the old lead oil paint is better. A thought: The cabinets were painted in relatively warm moist environment. Then shipped in freezing dry weather. The wood rapidly shrunk. Installed in your house. Temperature and humidity rapidly go up and paint begins to crack. But there is no way this could happen in a span of 6 months. Is the paint alkyd or acrylic? I think the paint is some sort of a two component mix. One of the components was not mixed correctly and the paint never cured properly, hence why is has failed.

How old is the home? The cracks you see above windows going up usually caused when steel angle-iron starts to rust, you would see cracks like this. The crack in the mortar will usually be in stair-step up the wall pattern away from the opening. In most cases, the angle-iron will rust, causing the steel to expand as it deteriorates... It can expand up to 10 times the original thickness of steel and when that happens lintel should be replaced. The other crack that you see above the garage door could be a steel-angle settlement or twisting. If you have one 16 or 18' garage door (hard to tell from the picture) the steel angle-iron must be bolted to a structural back-up (a headed) that carries or supports the entire weight of the brick. There is no fabricated structural steel angle iron that can span 16 to 18' and support a significant amount of brick weight even if it's a few feet tall without sagging over time. You should also have weep holes above the steel angle so the moisture/water can escape and not being trapped there. I think the 1st and 3d contractor is right and repointing brick for 5k is a ridiculous price in comparison to $900 and even if you take the $900 deal and 1st and 3d contractor was right you will be throwing $900 into the wind... So IMO your best bet is to get a licensed engineer out there and it will worth $200 give or take and have him evaluate the issue and make a repair suggestion.