In principle, you could extend it to achieve a collection aperture big enough for your range. This would require the basic unit to be rather high and the baffles somewhat harder to reach for cleaning. The angle of the extension pieces must be sufficiently close to vertical that effluent reflects upward when impinging on the extension. This makes the collecting aperture of the liner rather high, and the overall assembly rather large. Cabinetry may help obscure this. Whether 1200 cfm (at zero static pressure drop that you won't achieve) is adequate depends on many factors, but it might be risky because with a large aperture, the velocity of the air at the aperture might be relatively low and not helpful for containing the effluent. On the other hand, as the effluent rises and narrows in the hood, when it reaches the baffles the air velocity will be higher and perhaps adequate. I would be concerned that with significant cooking ongoing, rising effluent from multiple sources would not be contained, as may be seen in published Schlieren photographs of commercial units pulling insufficient cfm. Conceivably, a second helper fan inline with the ducting or mounted to the roof could be used to boost flow. Methods of control of both fans would need to be considered. Your trade-off here is avoiding the loss of the liner purchase price and committing to a lot of time to ensure a bastardized design will work, along with a lot of additional cost for parts and welding, versus just buying the right assembly and possibly reselling the unneeded liner. The liner capture area should extend beyond the cooking zone such that rising and expanding effluent intercepts the aperture and not the area outside the aperture where it will not be captured. A 66 to 72 inch liner will be needed. In any case, don't forget the need for make-up air. kas

First, a warning -- I have never lived in a house that needed make-up air. Not even close. Double-pane glass makes little sense for us since all the heat goes around the sashes in our Victorian. My experience with MUA is related to commercial systems. What follows is an opinion about the kinds of things that would make me consider MUA. Unless you have a Code requirement for make-up air, you have a fireplace you use when cooking (I seem to remember that you are South Bay?), have a "naturally" vented gas appliance in "connected space" (no always-closed doors between the hood and the appliance), or have a "tight" house (recent, energy-efficient construction, most likely), I would skip MUA. Even if you do need MUA, the difference in the maximum hood flow probably wouldn't significantly influence the the cost of the MUA system, which I would think was primarily labor driven. If not significantly more expensive, and you can run at least an 8" duct (preferably a 10"), I'd go with 900 CFM for two reasons: * You have it when you need it -- guests over, and the kitchen fills with smoke... * A 900 CFM blower at 600 CFM may be noticeably quieter than a 600 CFM blower at 600 CFM The 24" will serve you well. Enjoy your new range!

After much research, I just ordered the Best by Broan liner for inside of my custom hood. Will order a Broan blower (either inline or exterior. Appliance salesman and contractor will work together to let me try inline first, and if it doesn't perform well enough, get the exterior.) Link to the liner is below. Best by Broan is Boran's upgraded line. This was a really important decision, so I would've paid anything. I looked at every high-end brand, and found that the Best by Broan was the only one that met my specific needs. I chose it because: 1) The option to attach to an inline (this goes in the attic) blower, or an exterior wall or roof mounted blower. These 2 blower options allow for quieter operation, and, especially in the case of the exterior blower, more CFMs for greater smoke capture and removal. 2) The size. 58"+ is 18" wider than our 36" Wolf with griddle. It might be overkill, but ours will be mounted higher than the ideal 30-36", and I wanted the extra width for capture. 3) The baffles. Easier to clean than mesh, like the look, and GWers explained that baffles are probably quieter than mesh. They also explained that the wider the baffled liner, the quieter, b/c the air can rush into more baffles at one time. This was another reason I chose the 58" width. 4) 4 fan speeds, 4-level lighting, lights and controls are well laid out, like the four 50w halogens. 5) The wall switch option. It's important to note, if you want a wall switch to operate your blower, that some brands either don't offer one, or the wall switch actually disables some functions (like multi-level lighting) once it's installed. This was the case with a basic Broan, which is why we chose instead the Best by Broan. 6) During decision time, the Broan/Best by Broan tech department was really helpful, knowledgable, and available. Good luck, and try posting in appliances, too. Those guys are incredibly knowledgable and helpful. Here is a link that might be useful: Best by Broan Liner

Not saying it couldn't have been done better to fit the hood liner she wanted. But you need to roll with the punches and make things work when remodeling. Her custom wood hood is already being made or finished already. If this was a rectangular hood, there wouldn't be a problem. So...You find a blower package that will fit and follow the manufacturer recommendations. The CFMs and the height of the hood from the range. Those are what's important, One more thing I think that people don't realize. The blower width does not need to be the exact width of the range....the capture area does though (or wider). Would it be better if the blower could be wider? Sure....but in the long run, the 48" will work fine as long as the CFMs are high enough. If money isn't an option, build a bigger hood. If it is....then make it work to manufacturer specifications.