Step 1 Turn off the breaker that supplies power to the circuit. A test on the circuit will verify you turned off the right breaker. Touch one lead from the two-lead tester to the black wire inside the switch box leading back to the circuit panel. The tester will not light if you turned off the right breaker. There are two other black wires inside the switch box that lead to each light fixture; these will not have power running through them until connected to the switch Step 2 Tie the three white wires together inside the switch box, two white wires connected to the two separate lights and the white wire from the circuit panel. Twist one red wire connector clockwise onto all three white wires to tie them together. Push this set of wires to the back of the switch box. Step 3 Connect the three bare copper ground wires together from inside the switch box, the two bare copper wires that lead to the two separate lights and the bare copper wire that leads back to the circuit panel. Use an additional red wire connector on all three wires, connecting them. Push the set of bare copper wires into the switch box next to the set of white wires.Step 4 Wrap the black wire from the circuit panel around the brass screw on the right side of the double switch. Tighten the screw to hold the wire. The circuit panel black wire supplies electricity to the double switch. Step 5 Wrap one black wire from one of the light fixtures around one of the brass screws on the left side of the double switch. Wrap the remaining light fixture wire around the remaining screw on the side of the double switch. Tighten both brass screws to hold the black wires from the light fixtures to the double switch. Step 6 Install the double switch inside the switch box. Push the switch and its wires into the box, connecting the switch to the box at the top and bottom using the screws that came with the double switch. Cover the switch with a duplex cover plate and turn on the breaker to the circuit.

As long as things are simple electrically (just wires involved, no electronics) there is no reason why this shouldn't work for you. If you order this, make sure you aren't getting hit with customs fees. It is a pretty simple industrial design. I bet you could find something very similar closer (even on Houzz). But I know what it is like when you finally find that _one_ thing you've been looking for, for a very long time. It is hard to accept something less! Good luck! Joe

You lost me a little bit in the middle there where you started adding blacks and whites to the mix, but here's what a gather ... You don't have a neutral in your original 2 switch box. What you have is a feed (hot, the red wire) and two switch legs returning to your pool and spa lights. Basically you have what's called a switch loop, or in your case two switch loops. While you do have a "hot" at the switch box, you do not have a return neutral to your panel. The nearest neutral would be in some sort of a deck junction box where your pool and spa lights connect. My suggestion would be to NOT attempt to bootleg some sort of plug circuit off of your pool lighting circuit (danger Will Robinson), and to call in a professional to handle this for you. Not meaning any disrespect, but just reading your description of what you're attempting to do leads me to believe you're in over your head. Pools + electricity + homeowners = bad news.

I like what they did in this kitchen: Pendants on the "gathering" island and a linear fixture on the work island. I like that they mixed it up and I think just leaving in recessed cans above the work island makes it feel too "blank". Note that the linear fixture has an airy feel to it to keep the space visually light. Here, they did all the same pendants with only one over the work island: And here, they did a symmetrical layout for the lighting: Bottom line is, you can go any way you wish. My personal preference is to add decorative lighting over each island.