Hello, Kate. You actually have two different questions. Where to plant and which variety to plant. I saw an ES and a NB somewhat close on a trip to Mass several years ago. The NB was planted close to a wall while the ES was planted near other trees/shrubs. Both shrubs had similar height/width but the ES was older (NB was > 3 years old). I am not sure how old the bldg was; it was one of several in a retirement community. The blooms were similar but I liked the shade of blue of the NB more. It seemed more vibrant. NB also seemed to have more blooms than the ES. Several people have written posts regarding lack of blooms with ES, mostly those in Zones 4 and 5. Winter protection is now auggested with ES in the coldest zones (4 and maybe 5). On the other hand, I read where ES has increased mildew resistance than NB. Should you decide based on that? No. I suggest you get both if you want to compare and see for yourself as there are many variables that can affect what I saw in Mass and what you will see in Kansas. Only by planting them side by side you get the necessary conditions to compare them correctly. Other good blues worth checking are Blaumaise, Blue Bird & Blue Deckle, Miranda and Nighingale (all lacecaps) or you can check Blue Prince, Enziandom, Hamburg, Gen. Vicomtesse de Vibraye and Marechal Foch (all mopheads). The location of the new plant should be treated as a separate question. If you can determine that the NB's old location can be a problem because you will not be able to water it correctly then select another location regardless of which variety you end up selecting. While you now have more shade in the old location, you need to make sure that the old moisture problem will not cause problems again. The other place near the birch tree where you already have some hydrangeas sounds ok too. Lastly, some people have had experiences that make them label NB as hardier or tougher. You could try searching for some of these posts by keying on nikko blue or something like that; probably pay special attention to posts of people with the same type (or similar) of weather as you do. Luis

Nana, I like the table and it doesn't make me blue, just the shorter days and chilly nights. The blue color represents my feelings about the end of summer and with that the necessity of putting away my gazebos and outdoor furniture and outdoor decor, the dying of my flower garden and eventual coming of winter. Punk, I have had the gingham plates and the floral goblets for quite a while, just finally got around to using them in a tablescape. I have lots of fall and Halloween decor. I just need the mental acceptance of fall to get them out, LOL I'm still in deep denial. Thanks, Candy

Here is some blue for those dog days of summer....the Phal. Violacea is amazingly fragrant like sweet big red gum...and the Lou Sneary just slightly fragrant but nice cooling effect to look at...

The concern in zone 5 is normally that of getting reliable bloomage. From the sound of your experience with the other mophead, there is a chance that the rebloomers ES and NB may perform as those rebloomers are intended to do. I doubt the shrubs may get 10' in places where winter kill dries out all the stems but, if the stems were not to die and the plant gets more than 6', you could do rejuvenation pruning and cut down 1/3 of the stems in three consecutive years. One concern is that some people in zones 4-5 have had issues with ES not blooming during their whole growing season. The landscaper's phrase 'will not survive winter' actually refers to the fact that in some cold zones like yours, the stems above the ground may dry out and die during winter (unless you winter protect). The roots should stay alive. The dead stems contain invisible flower buds developed on the prior August-September and the buds should usually open in the early Spring. But Winter in your zone will usually kill these stems & buds (unless you winter protect them). On the other hand, since ES and NB are considered rebloomers. They should still develop new growth (stems) from the base in Spring. And when the new stems get tall/old enough, the stems should develop flower buds and these flower buds should open... in mid to late summer. Other hydrangeas that bloom reliably and are not affected by winter kill in Z5 are the hydrangea paniculatas (white blooms that turn shades of pink) and the Annabelle-like hydrangeas. No blues or purples with those though. If you want to try ES & NB, try "baby steps" first to see what happens. I would then buy a Nantucket Blue and observe how it performs. Fertilize once in Spring and do not prune it after the month of June. The next year, buy more NB if all goes well...