I answered your rootstock question on the thread you started for it. I would not even try European plums because they often have delayed incompatibility which is no fun. But asians plums are fair game. Most of the varieties today have some native American plum in the cross and that helps the odds. Re: peaches, I find the key is the temperature at grafting time. I have been sitting on all my peach and apricot scions waiting for it to warm up to the 70's which is what is needed. Look at the weather forecast for the next week before grafting making sure there are several days in the 70's or low 80's. Also I coat the peach scions in Doc Farwells since they can take awhile to work and you want to keep the scion from drying out. Lastly I wrap aluminum foil on the graft union to keep the temp from getting too hot when the sun is hitting the graft. I also try to put the grafts on the north side for the same reason. Do twice as many grafts with peaches since the number of random misses seems to be higher. I usually put several backup chip buds in random locations which are forced only if the main graft did not take. With these methods I have managed to not lose any of the couple dozen peach varieties I have wanted to graft in the last few years. Scott

There was some dreadful wine-type beverage I purchased last holiday season that came in a frosted bottle - but I wouldn't drink a lot of it. I had trouble getting the lights in. I should have used a larger drill bit like the one suggested here. The first directions I came across suggested 1/2 inch. That's a tad small. I found a string of 20 LED lights at Big Lots just before Christmas. I thought the number was about right, and it had a plug on only one end. (many have plugs on both in case you want to assemble a long string of lights.) I saved the label as it was kind of a joke between DH and I, and he passed away after I purchased the wine, but before I made the light. The label is a re-print of an old bicycle poster with a naked woman holding a bicycle, flying through the sky.

You can see my picture of the Maltese puppy above. I continued to play with it, by adding spruce, gifts and snow picture tubes. When I was finished, I saved it to jpeg. It wasn't until I tried to email the picture to my sister that I realized the file size had grown to 612kb, with the additional picture tubes. Is this normal for a file size to increase with the addition of picture tubes or is there a step I missed? Until just recently, I used PSP 8 only for editing my pictures and knew little about the programs other functions such as layers, masks etc., so I hope my question doensn't sound too ridiculous. Judy

The wet saw is the LAST place to cut corners on a tile job. Great tile jobs are about three things: the tile, the precision lay, and the correctly centered layout. I did stained glass for years and am an expert at score and snap skills, but when I did my tiling I bit the bullet and bought a $100 wet tile saw with DIAMOND blade, even for my ceramic tile. The control you get in precision cuts will make all the difference in how your tile job looks, and you are going to look at that tile job several times a day for many years!!! Just a warning, the $100 saw worked fine, but was noisy and messy. I had to do it in a walk in shower since it was too cold to do it outdoors. The cheaper wet saws (under several hundred dollars price range) throw water when they cut, so just be prepared to have a loud, wet place to do your cutting. Take your time and let the blade work at the speed it can. Keep a water hose nearby to flush the dust off the table surface between cuts and this will help a lot with sliding on the table and keeping tiles from getting scratched from previous fragments. Wet saw - worth every penny in a tile job.