This fence really bothers you doesn't it ? For a quick fix, I would paint it. For a slower fix, the trellis is good idea. My sister has wire, its just a big cross, like an 'X' across each panel of the fence, and she has grown a twining vine up it. It looks lovely, she has a Trachelospermum jasminoides vine which is quite fast growing, where I live, and the flowers are fragrant. I like the blackboard idea, I have done that at a place I lived. Its easy and cheap and young children love it, sitting there playing schools, and you get to see there lovely pictures on the board. Heaven. Hope you come up with something nice for your fence. Popi

It does get wet, when the kids are jumping into the deep end.....normal play it doesnt get wet. I remember the salesman said splashing wasnt a problem, he just wanted to make sure we werent using it on a spillover spa, where it would be in constant contact with the water. We have no white deposits, really do not expect any...ever... but it was only finished the end of August. One day I did hose it down after the kids were doing constant cannon balls. No negative experiences, we love it. The b-bque installer did not suggest we use the stack stone on the other side of the island....he said you dont want to splatter grease while you are cooking onto it. If we did want to stone the inner side of the island, he suggested we seal it but he was hesitant to suggest that because he said it was a pain to do, it could change the color and then would require doing it every year. We also had the pillars stacked stoned and they look great. Here is a photo from when it was completed this summer. I will try to take another picture tomorrow.

White paint will last much longer and with much less maintenance. If a wood has any color at all---as in pressure treated----the white stain will be next to useless. It will look more like washed out white wash. Plus, the sun will fade it in a short time. Shouild you decide to paint the fence, you will need to use a good sealing primer first, such as Bullseye 123 from Zinsser or most oil based primers will work. Oil based primer is a bit more difficult to apply, however, than water based 123. Then use a good exterior latex enamel house paint. Pressure treated wood, when dry, can be painted immediately. It is difficult to get a large number of dry pickets, however. Wet ones---that ooze noisture when a screw head compresses the wood----will need 4 to 6 months to dry. Cedar can be painted on installation, as a rule. But using cedar, which is naturally weather resistant, and painting it is kinda expensive.

There's a reason why you can't find much information on this. It's probably a bad idea. You should expect some unevenness and lapping on the stain. Wood will only absorb so much oil based stain. The depth of color is controlled by how much stain can penetrate and any excess is wiped off. In my experience, water based stains don't have the same limit and are almost certain to have imperfections. It soaks in quickly and applying more over the top generally makes it darker. The most successful one we did involved taping off runs so that it could be applied and worked from both sides, like a piece of furniture, trim, cabinet or door. Then we applied two coats of urethane, masked off the stained portion and stained and urethaned the remaining strips. Then we pulled all the tape and applied one last coat of finish. Here's the Varathane product page which doesn't mention floors. https://www.varathanemasters.com/en/products/water-based-stain "Great for furniture, cabinets, doors, trim and more" And it says it's sold only in quarts. It's easy to make a sample look good but much harder when you must do multiple runs and longer runs. If you're going to allow an attempt to do this, choose a separate room to do first. so the whole thing won't have to be done if/when it doesn't work.