How do you find RECTIFIED tile for kitchen floors? Bill V?

15 years ago

If we end up with tile instead of wood in our new kitchen, I am determined to minimize the grout. I understand now that I need to go with 'rectified' tile in order to have 1/16th inch grout lines. Of course, the tile I love (Crossville Strong series) can not have grout less than 1/8th. Ugh! As I understand it, rectified tile is essentially tile that is cut to measure AFTER it's fired in the kiln, so the edges are very straight, and all tiles measure the same. How do you go about finding a selection of "rectified" tile? The guys at the floor store are not helpful. Would going to a showroom help?

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Comments (13)

bill_vincent
15 years ago
Try Crossville's Empire series.
charlikin
15 years ago
I have rectified tile in my bathroom - Ilva Pietre Travertine. Come to think of it, my kitchen backsplash is also rectified - Rex Ceramiche Touch Stone.
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I assume that you mean before the tile is permanently set in place, not when (or if) there is a dry run so to speak to see how the pattern will fit into the space(?) Correct. Would an experienced professional even need to lay out the tiles ahead of time or would they typically proceed directly from prep to installation? Yes and no. Some WILL actually lay them out dry. I've got my own thoughts on that, but however they do it, so long as they show some kind of forethought instead of just finding a corner and starting, they're ahead of the game. What I'll normally do is take several tiles and measure to see what the coursing (one grout joint and one tile) measures. I'll then make a cheat sheet of coursing that comes out somewhere around 2 feet (whether that be 4 6x6, 2 12x12, etc), and then I'll measure around the area, to see how the tile is going to fall. it's from there that I'll decide if I can center the layout, or if there might be a better way, taking into consideration how the tile will hit several different surfaces, and which ones are most obvious in the room. (did you get all that? LOL) With an agreed upon layout in hand, would most experienced installers be able to anticipate potential issues around niches and other elements that could require partial tiles so that you could have a discussion ahead of time as to how they would be handled? before the very first tile gets set, a good installer will know exactly how the tile is going to hit any obstruction in the layout. In fact, I'll grid out the area with chalk lines, and then all my cuts will be made before I set the first piece of tile. but even before the cutting starts, I'll know how big all my cuts will be. Just curious... Do you find that it's best if the homeowner stay available or stay away while you're completing your work? Doesn't matter to me either way. I'd prefer that the customer be available in case of questions that come up, but if they'd like to watch (and I HAVE had several that did) the whole time, they're most welcome to watch. I LOVE playing to an audience!! That's when they see that all this stuff doesn't exactly happen just by "luck"! I know alot of installers who'd rather the customer weren't around, though-- too many questions. Funny thing is, I welcome the questions. To me, the internet has given us the one thing this industry has really needed-- an educated consumer. Not so many fly by nights getting away with their BS any more. And Bill G-- yes-- that's just the labor cost. the retail is MUCH more. Based on 12x12 tyile, a 25 pound bag of grout should grout about 150 sq. feet, for about 15.00- 25.00, depending on the grout. For epoxy, a unit will do about 75 sq. feet, for about 80.00.
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It used to be that 1/16th was called out for rectified tiles. With the new specs for manufacturing, you start getting more variations in tile size. Even in rectified, believe it or not. The new installation recommendation, which has actually been around for a few years, is to have the grout line 3-times the size of the variation within the tiles. This usually comes down to an 1/8th inch grout line. Lippage can also be an issue based on the pattern. A stacked pattern might not show lippage whereas a running bond could. The larger the tile, the more chance you have of lippage with offset patterns. That's all due to the tiles not being perfectly flat. A slight warp, pillow, or pringing (like the pringles potato chip). The grout needs depth. Otherwise it'll just pop out. So a 1/32nd gap with a beveled edge, you may not have durability, because the installer may not pack the joint (if there even is an actual joint) with grout. So: Not to dump on the guy who plans on going 1/32nd...but I'd nix that. Someone who tells me they're going with 1/32nd, I think they're just going to lightly butt the tiles together and get whatever grout penetration they can. And it'll likely be nothing more than topical grout with very little actually packing whatever gap there would be between the tiles. With the new specs, 1/8th inch is the new standard. You could still go 1/16th if the tiles and pattern allow for it, the installer is comfortable with it, and it's called out in the specs...but I'd not advocate going less.
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I have learned that different areas of the country charge differently due to the cost of living. Hence, you should find out what others charge in your area and also be willing to pay more for a quality installer or you will pay twice like I had to do since the installer ruined 2 boxes of my tiles and I had to hire someone else to redo the job. I am in Northern NJ and did not use rectified tile but would love to in the kitchen since I am finding out that I dislike grout clean-up even thought I chose Spectralock grout that is self-sealing grout. When my doggies miss the puppy pads in the middle foyer, I have to clean up the pee right away or the grout is stained. If I clean it up right away, then it does come off.
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remodelfla
15 years ago
Many tile websites specifiy "rectified" or not. You can even put in their search engines and specific tiles will come up. I can't imagine that the sales help in a tile store couldn't steer you toward the tiles that are recitified.
cheri127
15 years ago
I'm using Ilva Oxidized. It looks so much like stone it's amazing and has 1/16" grout lines. I'm not sure why Crossville Strong has different recommendations (maybe because it's so textured?) but I would call them and be sure that you can't go with narrower grout if that's the tile you really like.
jejvtr
15 years ago
Not sure if they will have what you are looking for but here's a link to another site

Here is a link that might be useful: restoration tile
grannysmith18
15 years ago
I used a tile from Ariostea, an Italian company, and every tile guy who has seen or worked on my floors has commented on how perfet the tiles are.

To find a place that sells them you practically have to be a certified Googler, but it's worth it.

I think you'll have to go to some high-end tile showrooms - they'll understand what you're looking for.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ariostea tiles
bill_vincent
15 years ago
I'm not sure why Crossville Strong has different recommendations (maybe because it's so textured?)

Because it's not rectified. You can not use that small a grout joint with any conventional ceramic or porcelain. It MUST be rectified porcelain, with the exception of the softer clay wall tiles, and even some of those must use a wider joint.

Crossville's Empire series IS rectified, which is why I recommended it, being that the op specified a Crossville line that she's interested in.
bestyears
Original Author
15 years ago
Thank you all for the tips -I will go chase each of them down. Bill, I have looked at the Empire series, but I don't know it just isn't grabbing me... Does anyone know the Crossville Plan series? That is supposed to be rectified as well. I have not seen it IRL, but will go to a showroom this week.
cheri127
15 years ago
I thought all of the Crossville tile was rectified; now I get it.
bill_vincent
15 years ago
Close-- all of Crossville is PORCELAIN. I believe the only U.S. company that can make that claim.
bestyears
Original Author
15 years ago
Bill,
I went back to the Master Tile showroom and looked at the Empire series today. It seems a bit slippery. I was asking the girl at the desk about it, but she couldn't give me any quantitative info. Just that "oh, it's not really slippery." We have a pool and kids going in and out with wet feet, so one of our goals is to have a less slippery floor than we have now. Isn't there some way of comparing the relative slipperyness of one tile to another? A scale or something?
desert_gal_nv
15 years ago
The "slippery-ness measure" is called the Coefficient of Friction or COF.
If you go to the Crossville site, then download the brochure for the particular tile, down in the details there will be the COF, and it will be for both dry and wet states.

The higher the number, the less slippy the tile is.I think that >6 is pretty good.
bill_vincent
15 years ago
For the most part, rectified porcelain, although not as slip resistant as a textured porcelain, won't usually be quite as slippery as it might look. But as desert gal recommeded, check the CoF. That'll give you more of an idea. Keep in mind that the CoF isn't always accurate with reference to wet tiles. It pertains to the tile when dry, because depending on the amount of water on a given surface, the CoF could change drastically.

How do you find RECTIFIED tile for kitchen floors? Bill V?

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How do you find RECTIFIED tile for kitchen floors? Bill V?

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