The electronic is a good filter, but I would go with the 4" media filter. Compare the pressure drop in both systems and see what the affects on air flows will be before going one way or another. Media filters are rated on a MERV basis. Prior to this system coming out there was no better example of the "figures don't lie but liars figure". Everyone spoke of effectiveness and efficiency and it was all just wrong. The lower the MERV number, the lower the efficiency. A 5 is less efficient than an 11. I would suggest over 10, but again, to tight a filter will affect air flow and static pressures must be calculated. I used to represent Purolator and saw many people throw a MERV 13 in a system and Kaboom...no air flow. Discuss this with your contractor and don't let him soft peddle this. Make sure you understand what you are getting and how it will work on your duct system. I am surprised that a media filter cabinet is more than an electronic. All the media filter is, is a frame to hold the filter. I also recommend a duct leakage test prior to replacement of any equipment. Keep in mind that the DOE says that the average residential system looses between 18 and 42% of its energy due to duct leakage. Saying that it is lost to the building envelop is not correct thinking. It is the ultimate rationalization. My system in the home we purchased 4 yrs ago was so poor that I eliminated all the duct (and found closets;), and went mini-split heat pumps and Rinnai Energysavers. All "net to the space" zoned H&C.

Well ownership 101: 1. It is difficult to tell because of the lack of punctuation, but it appears you have had your water tested for bacteria but nothing else, is this correct? If so, it is important to know a few more things for safety purposes: nitrates, sulfates, VOCs. 2. You way you want to removed sediment. In order to do this properly, we need to know what size/type of sediment we are dealing with. Is it silt (clay-like), sand, pebbles, etc and what size are the particles? Testing is a good thing here as well. 3. You mention wanting to remove iron. For this is happen, we need to know the amount and type of iron. Is it particulate or dissolved? This requires a test as well. 4. You mention wanting to use carbon to improve taste. Carbon may, or may not improve the taste of your water. It depends entirely upon what is actually in your water. 5. You mention the water has on odor. What type of odor? 6. If you want a complete, useful water test, test for the following: pH, TDS, alkalinity, hardness, ferric iron, ferrous iron, manganese, sulfates, nitrates, VOCs. Those are necessary no matter what treatment you ultimately decide to use. 7. You need to know some things about your sell system: Well depth, brand and hp of pump, jet or submersible pump, size of pressure tank, standard or variable speed pump system, date the current system was installed, pressure settings (at what pressure does the well pump start and stop?), line size, draw down rate of the well. Hopefully, there is a sticker or paper somewhere near your well with the name of the company that did the installation - they should have records either under the name of the home's previous owner or the property location. 8. Your well could be short-cycling for a variety of reasons: The pressure switch could be failing. The pump could be failing. The check valves or foot valve (if present) could have failed. There could be a hole in the line underground The pressure tank bladder could have failed. Taking pictures of the system as a whole, including tanks, valves, switches, controllers, etc will help us to help you diagnose the problem.

Thanks, sleeve. I have an 11 yr old opened BOS of the no vent N95 respirators. Date says (c) 2002 or close. Time flies. I think these were for SARS outbreak. surprisingly the yellow rubber like bare elastic is still good. The exhaust vent types were purchased in early January 2020. No one of my siblings wants any, saying that their too uncomfortable. I mostly stay HOME. We don't socialize, and make very few trips out. But, yesterday was a gorgeous day and I went with a masked neighbor who seems very careful to buy some tomato plants, lettuces, organic milk and deli salads (darn pricy) at at super aware country store. Only a couple people in at a time with masks, distancing and no bags from elsewhere. Half gal milk = $7.75 in glass bottle ($1.50 if return bottle). A cup of bean salad, $4. I will figure out their recipe. I put it through the mass spectrometer in my mouth. I wore an old, non vented N95 and safety goggles. Mask was u o for table and hot. I DID keep messing with it, so was glad I was pretty much in the clean rural woodsy boondocks. (But you never know). When we passed through a working class small city, I went into a store for wine. I had on my gear, the cashier had on a cowboy bandana. A 30-ish woman came into the store, o mask, and barbed into my shelf area. I left For the cashier. She was right behind me, no mask, no distance, no sense. I asked her to please back up (like 5 feet!). She had a bunch of pink and lavender colored toy wine. She looked at me as though I’d told her that there was a deadly global pandemic. Meh. No worries. No cares. My friend encountered a couple of women in a grocery store. No mask, crowding her. She asked them why they were not wearing a mask. They fired back that it was their freedom of choice, blah blah. The State is on MASK rules if outside your home. Oh, and distance. What is with these clueless people. Flyovers are okay, but how about some public service announcement, mini tutorials on infection control? Think I might tell the next maskless fool who won’t keep back that, oops! You e got something stuck on your face! Then disappear as they rubs cooties into their fave with dirty hands. I won’t do it. But what is with the clueless, right to infect others, mask-less zombies? At least they didn’t shoot us in the back of the head (Recent MI news). I spotted a 25Lb bag or organic, unbleached, AP flour for $25. Maybe I should go back to the clean store for it. But that’s a lotta flour.