With the cost of remodeling a kitchen, I would put the lights where they should be. Get a drywall guy in there and see if it's better to patch or replace. Mine was patched all over the place. It looks great. You can't tell at all. I have 6" cans over the floor areas and 4" cans over prep and sink. Here is part of it. This is before the pendants went in. I have one eyeball pointing to a blank wall where I hope to find some kind of artwork. Good Luck, Lisa

We have a 2076WH Lightolier recessed fixture in our living room and want to replace it with an eyeball recessed light. Is there a fairly easy way to do this or will it involve replacing the entire housing in the ceiling?

Hi. I am trying to figure out best placement for a larger but somewhat awkwardly shaped 2nd floor bedroom (a few jogs) of approx. 170 sq feet. It already has an existing center light which I plan to convert to a ceiling fan fixture. We also demo'd an existing closet to make a sort of nook for a desk. There is attic space above in which to maneuver so I have a lot of flexibility with wiring. So my plan now is to add some recessed lights to both light the room and the desk area. I was thinking 4x six-inch cans with surface mount LED trim spread around the room would suffice, but then got into reading the calculators which said 6-8 is a better number. This is just a kid's bedroom so it doesn't have to be extravagant, just better lit than it is now, so if I can get away with four then that's 2-4 less plaster holes I need to bust out :). As for the closet area, I was thinking two 4" LED cans on a dimmer would be more than enough... which would be great because I happen to have exactly that number on hand. I have attached a very crude (and totally not to scale) area plan to illustrate the shape and sizes. Appreciate all thoughts!

Tracing a leak can be very difficult. It has a way of surprising you. It can run a long distance from the source of the leak. If you get a long rain storm, get out the flash light and go to the attic. Inspect every rafter starting at the top and moving down. Use your hands on the rafters to try to find moisture. Inspect the underside of the roof. If you get lucky, the water will reflect from the light of the flashlight. It may drip from the penetrating nails, too. In one old house, we strung up a series of strings attached to the rafters with a washer at the bottom of the string. Let them hang. Any water moving down the rafter will be diverted to the bottom of the string. It's one way of eliminating possibilities of a roof leak. If you cant' find a roof leak, you can move on to a pluming leak. That is even harder to find. The fact that you had dripping water from a light fixture means there is a leak. It's not condensation. Get out the ladder and feel for water along the channels of your boarded ceiling. You will waste a fair amount of water finding it. Take a bath, take a long shower, run the water in the sink, flush the toilet continuously. Inspect the ceiling with your hands as you go through each water device. The leak is there, you just have to find it. Use that flashlight. You will need to be a detective. I had a leak in a bedroom with a boarded ceiling. There was no bathroom above the space. We were in the in the process of tuning up a metal roof. It was raining. Turns out one of the screws was not replaced and was open to flowing water. We temporarily plugged the hole with caulk until the roofer could return to make the repair. The only way we found it was to get on the roof and look for a missing screw hole. The point is, you will need to become a water detective.