Your post indicates that the contractor was recommended by friends so you need to try to cut through that relationship and find out how the job really went for them. If the project didn't finish on time try to find out why. It's not unusual for a project to run long. More questions based on issues I've seen around this site and in my work: Did the contractor and crews disappear for a while without an explanation? Start a new project and drop the current one? Ask for accelerated draws or payments? Was it hard to get the last few details finished? Everyone has different levels of tolerance when it comes to defining a good job so it's really hard to go by what someone else says. You have to go on instinct as well. When you meet does the relationship work for you? The best way to make sure you get a good job is holding back 25% or more and not 10%/15% that is usually in the contract. Even otherwise good contractors are sometimes willing to let that amount go and walk away when the cost of finishing the project exceeds the final payment. You also need to "back load" your payments so the more they complete, the more they get paid. The contractor will try to get most of the money up front. If they need materials, ask for invoices or pay the supplier directly. Make sure they have enough to pay their subs, but don't just follow a set payment schedule. This is more work for you, but worth it to ensure a good project. If the contractor won't agree to those terms, find another.

Go to the dealer who will be providing the windows (eitehr directly to you or to your contractor). Ask them for a factory installation instructions. (don't worry, it's not a book but a short pamphlet). Look it over and become familiar with the recommended installation. Other than the support for the bow being structurally strong enough, the simgle most important factor is the use of window tape, (Vicor or some other brand). This must be installed per instructions, overlapping like roof shingles. In addition, the contractor may use silicone to make sure there are no gaps for water to seep in. A great percentage of window problems that leak water is not the window but how it was installed. If it is new construction or you have all the siding off, absolutely use a house wrap like Tyvek, again following instructions. Lastly, the window must be installed level and plumb then shimmed (top at both sides and at the check rail for DH. The shim should be snug but not forced in. This is critical on DH windows. You want the sashes to slide up and down without being too loose or too tight. Shimming is critidal here. If you see the contractor putting the windows in and just nailing the nailing fins without first checking level and shimming, you will have trouble. This could be especially troublesom if he takes the sashes out to reduct weight and installs the window frames in the same manner by just nailing the fins without leveling, shimming.

For an initial quote, things can be a little lax with maybe just approx sizes, model, options, u-factors, window and labor warranty,references,install/haul included, etc. For a final contract, I'd ask for the *Exact brand, model, and options for each window in writing *Exact sizes *Approx lead time and install date *Method of install, approx # days/hours to install *Any included exterior wrapping of windows *Any interior trim replacement required, *Who is responsible for Staining or Painting of Interior Trim. *Who is in charge of debris removal/cleaning, disposal of old windows *What kind of Insulation they use to seal around window(Fiberglass or Low Expansion Foam) If they offer a warranty on there work make sure you get it in writing on the contract! Also if they say they do not charge for Service Repairs get that in writing also. If you go and examined the work of a specific install crew, you can also request that crew. In most cases all of the above don't end up being necessary, but it never hurts to get things in writing, just in case...

Not sure where some of you all are, but I'm in the So-Cal area and they've got Dal-Tile stores in this area and you can visit one of their showrooms and they've got tons of tile on the floors, walls, etc.. This is done by local tile installers and their names are on each piece of work giving you an instant idea of whether or not they know what their doing, showing creativity, etc. We're just finishing a large tile job that is costing us almost $15k in labor alone (and another $11k in materials) -- that's probably a coverage on the floor of ~1500 SF and three more bathrooms as well.. Anyway, I would also query some local neighbors or friends in the area for references.. That is the way we learned about our tile guy -- a friend of my wife's had him do their house recently and we liked the work.. Believe it or not, tile work not only takes patience to do, but also a bit of creative genius.. The tile guy that is experienced should also know what wont work in certain area as it will look odd afterwards.. Our guy knows all of that stuff and had made suggestions to avoid those sorts of issues. My wife & I are very pleased with his work -- completely top notch!