Buying your own materials? Yay or nay?
Oyin
11 years ago
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snoonyb
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoChristopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
salvaged tinted windows... yay or nay?
Comments (16)the verdict... i went to speak to the folks at the mountain horticultural research center in asheville, nc and they gave me the info i was looking for. we did a par reading this morning at about 10. the ambient reading was 560.4 micromoles/second/metersquared. two readings from behind the glass averaged 476. this indicates about a 15% reduction in photosynthetically active radiation. while it would not be ideal to use glass like this for a large commercial operation, the gentleman i spoke to seemed confident that i could design around the 15% shading for my personal use greenhouse. i plan to use a different material for the ceiling and possibly the east/west sides. this will allow for much more light than if i were to solely use the tinted windows. i still want to build a cold frame this winter as an experiment, but i am pretty sure that this can work. the par meter provided an instantaneous reading (15 seconds). as a matter of reference, most commercial growers require an average of 15 moles of light/heat energy per day. when we did our calculations, estimating only six hours of sun, my glass would provide between 9 and 10 moles per day. this number is significantly lower than what commercial growers would look for, but i think that my greenhouse location will recieve more than 6 hours a day, even during the winter months. maybe i will have to supplement with some artificial light in the winter, i will only find that out once the greenhouse is operational. pat tea... i would suggest doing what i did and contact your local horticultural research center to do a par reading. seems that this is the only way to really know what types and amount of light are allowed to pass through your glass. the combination of the tint and your location might not be the best. i live in western nc and it is super sunny here the majority of the time, even in the winter months. we have a naturally long growing season. i don't know if the cloudier weather in the pnw would pose an issue, but that is something you might want to talk to your local researchers about. i spoke to a number of folks before i went to the research center - glass manufacturers, tinting companies, even the greenhouse companies that were referred to in a previous post- and no one really had any solid info to give me, only their personal opinions or another reference. other than getting a par reading done, the only other option seems to be building a cold frame. practically speaking, this would be the best way to experiment, it will just take a full winter to know your results. good luck with it, i hope you can use those windows. free glass rocks! thanks to everyone for your ideas and suggestions... now on to design ideas. who's got some for me?...See MoreShould I buy AMERICA? yay or nay
Comments (18)I love my Rosa, America. Love the salmon color and fragrance. Pretty foliage too. It is growing up on my wattle fence at the back of my cottage rose garden. In my zone, it does not die back. I mulch most of my roses heavily for winter with soil and wood chips, then pull it back in spring. Our soil has winter heave - freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw all winter long and in early spring. I mulch deeply to prevent my roses' roots from being exposed due to the heaving. My Rosa. America has not required any spraying. No muss, no fuss. I don't grow roses that can't take my climate and require a lot of work. Experiment and see what YOU think. It may be just the thing for you. (BTW, I bought mine from WalMart for $4...cash and carry) I order from Countryside Roses and the Antique Rose Emporium too, but I never pass up a good rose just because it happens to be from WalMart or any other store's garden center. I bought a yellow Lady Banks rose from Lowe's one year. It was on the "discount rack" dying a very sad and ugly way. It had downy mildew and some other god-awful problem, but I still wanted to try to bring it back to life. According to the tag and professional rose growers, Lady Banks is not supposed to be grown in zone 6b. But, I took it home, washed it with Tide and water and cleaned all the yuck off and it recovered quickly. It grew 6 feet the first year and then shot up to the porch pillars by the following year. It now covers half of my front porch - I have had it for over 10 years. It does not require any spraying, mulching, it does not die back and it doesn't even need watering. Occasionally, I need to prune it back because it's canes invade the porch sitting area. It has survived several years of above normal summer temps and drought, and our severe winter weather deep freezes and ice storms. So if you like Rosa, America, buy it, plant it and see how it does for you in your garden and your climate. sweetannie4u...See MoreInduction range: yay or nay?
Comments (35)Just tried Paulo's suggestion for using the "temp" settings on my Max Burton and, by golly, using the 250F setting did hold my pressure cooker at 15 psi. (Actually, a tiny skoonch above the second ring, but otherwise steady for five minutes.) It seemed like maybe the 210F "temp" setting might hold the 7.5 psi pressure, but haven't had time to test it for any length of time. Anyhow, it seems that the MB's temp settings may give one the ability to make the equivalent of half step adjustments between the whole-numbered power settings. Thanks, Paulo. For clarabelled, I think the Electrolux you bought offers .2 power increments in the low end of the heating range (between "Lo" and "2.8"). On hoods, that 440 cfm hood will work. A general rule of thumb for electric stoves is the minimum hood draw you want will be 100 CFM for every linear foot of cooking surface. For a 30" stove like your Elux slide-in, the minimum would be 250 CFM and you are above that. Do have somebody check to be sure your won't need make-up air. Even a 440 CFM hood can backdraft a fireplace chimney or a gas water heater in a very tight house. (Don't be unduly alarmed, though. "Can" means it is possible, not that it necessarily will be happening.) This post was edited by JWVideo on Sun, Oct 13, 13 at 18:03...See MoreCulligan is the only local option. Yay/nay and lots of ???
Comments (2)A water softener removes hardness and iron up to 5 ppm although most regular softeners can't handle that much iron. On city water you will not have near that much iron, so you wouldn't need an iron filter to remove it. Or did you mean some other type of filter? Your city water is drinkable now, you may not like the taste but health wise there should not be a problem with it so what are you concerned about or wanting to filter out of it? The three brands you mentioned are proprietary and expensive and you will have to be dependent on that local dealer for service and parts; regardless of the prices. There should be independent dealers in your area, they sell non proprietary industry standard usually no brand name equipment. Or you can buy from an independent dealer online and install it yourself or hire a plumber to do it. If you go that route, I suggest you look at a correctly sized softener for your family size and water quality and the SFR your house requires, using a Clack WS-1 control valve. As to a big box store brand, I strongly suggest not doing that. They last 2-5 years and the parts and service are pricey for what you get. And in many cases the constant service flow rating (SFR) is low because of the style of softener they sell; a cabinet model which limits the size of the resin tank which limits the volume of resin used which dictates the SFR of a softener....See MoreEngineerChic
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoOyin
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