35 year old teacher seeking solid retirement planning advice
14 years ago
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- 14 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 14 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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nightmare experiences - seeking consolation and advice
Comments (17)Wow you are very determined to have stayed through all that abuse. I was a member of a community garden for 3 years and it was run very well-- even in the best of situations things like theft, and accidental damamge can occur. I would absolutely confront the manager of the garden. Perhaps not with a laundry list of complaints -- but a list of "I feel" - I'm very frustrated, I care very much about..." think it out - even write out what you want to say-- with a purpose in mind. It seems to me like it would be wise to have areas of the garden which could be claimed by gardeners, where they could claim a plot and then the produce, work, etc would all be theirs-- you might suggest this be a fenced area or some other kind of barrier so that helpful community workers couldn't run mowers over the fencing or barriers, and then suggest - general areas - in which things like blueberry bushes, community projects or more pernnial projects could take place. You may need to offer some really solid suggestions to problems you see-- ie..I did all this work and now the ground I worked on-- is covered with glass. I have been a valued memeber of the garden for years and for me this represents alot of work, I need to know this won't happen again-- so here is what I suggest as a possible solution. At the beginning of every spring I would be happy to help to divide up this area into individual plots and be responsible for "renting" out each staked off area to interested parties-- we can each have our own area- with returning gardeners getting to put a claim on the area they cared for last year as a first preference. In exchange I would like for you to explain to the worker on site that this is not an area of the garden that he is responsible for-- but that once a year after the stakes are removed he may mow it to the control the weeds. Perhaps your manager is overwhelmed or burnt out and doesn't have the energy or time for enforcing common courtesy, or simply doesn't see the need-- but for your sanity -- surely that is neccessary. That may be the reason there are only two surviving gardeners on the plot..I tell you the first time someone plowed over my carrots or put broken glass in ground that I had worked -- I'd be gone.. and if a healthy discussion -- and offering to take over or assist with the situation didn't help it in some way-- I'd bug out, or at least back down on the amount of energy I expended there. Like I said -- I used to be part of a community garden and it worked fabulously-- there were no fences, but some basic rules. Here is what we did-- someone was responsible for getting names and dividing up plots-- also for getting the entire area tilled, every year. We each paid some small amount for this-- I think it was $20 or something-- that funded the tiller rental & water useage. Each plot was about 12x12. If it was your first year- you could have one plot, unless there were extras--there was usually a waiting list. After you had kept a plot for a year- you could ask to have more than one and veterans got first dibs on spaces & on extra plots. There was a letter that was sent out every year with a map of the plots- on the map was the persons first name and phone number-- this made everybody accountable-- your space, your responsibility, and your produce. If your plot wasn't weeded or cared for next year you didn't get a plot-- if someone had a problem with something in a neighbors plot or a question you could call them-- you knew it, they knew it and it helped. Everybody had the managers # and could call them too. It was also nice cause if you were out working saturday - you could say hi to bob or sue or joe and you at least knew their name. The small amount of money paid out in spring was a way of seeing who was interested enough to do it- and got some buy in and-- helped to cover some of the costs. Every fall everything was broken down and there was an end of the year potluck and work party, and every spring it was all put up again...it was somewhat limiting-- but it did make it easier and it ran very smoothly. Rules were clearly written out -- they used cheap wooden stakes and string to mark the plots, and it was a wonderful sense of community-- a joy. Rules and respect are essential in most things-- community gardens are no exception. Good luck to you!...See MoreSeeking Hot Sauce Advice
Comments (6)one way to get the chocolate color, if you're using other peppers in there as well, is to use a mix of red and green peppers and grind it up really fine in the blender. I make (and sell) a chocolate scorpion based sauce that incorporates cocoa powder, it does contribute wonderfully to the color of the final product. and will have an effect on the color even when used in very small amounts. I could have a field day on these hot sauce threads. doing it the way you did, I would suggest using the vinegar you have the peppers soaking in as part of the recipe, as some of the heat from the peppers undoubtedly made it's way in there, why waste it? also, in addition to the garlic I like to play around with herbs and spices. allspice, cumin, nutmeg, coriander, cilantro, culantro, tumeric,curry powder, ginger, thyme, and others are worth considering. though not necessarily all in the same recipe. when using herbs if you don't have a good pH tester, it's best to go with dry (assuming you're looking for a shelf stable product). xanthan gum is sometimes available in health food stores, but I get mine online. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040DWCXG/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me= despite what seems to be the common suggested use for xanthan I find the best way to add it to your sauce is with a blender that has a pour spout that can open while it's still running, and add it a little at a time while the blender is spinning fast. but that's just me. it's better to start with less than you think you need and add more as needed....See MoreFinished basement plan - seeking comments!
Comments (29)That looks great! I was thinking what annkh said about the BR 4 closet: take out the rod/shelf on the back wall and you'll have full use of the rods on either side (no dead corners.) I'd put a big mirror on the back wall so when she gets dressed in there she can see how everything looks. Looks like a great set up for a teen! This is a small thing but I'd move the door to the BR4 closet to the right to be closer to the bathroom, and have it open toward the other side of the closet (the right side.) This will give you just a bit more space in that corner of the room; maybe put in a comfy chair and a hanging light for a nice little reading spot. Or, depending on how you all feel about accessing the closet from the bathroom, flip the orientation of the closet so the two rods run along the top and bottom, the door opens from the bathroom, and the back wall (where I'd put a big mirror) is to the left. It takes away wall space in the bathroom, but it gives you a long wall in the bedroom for furniture, and it means that she can go from closet to bathroom without passing in front of the bedroom door. (Mockup below.) You have tons of awesome storage already, but you could also add a closet under the higher stair landing, opening toward the ping pong table. This could have storage for paddles, balls, games, etc. Also, you could store your wrapping paper there; my mom always wrapped presents on their ping pong table because it was such a great place to spread out. Finally, what do you think about adding a small, apartment sized stackable washer and dryer? This would be great for pool towels, wet suits, and so your daughter and guests could do laundry without bringing it upstairs.(Same with sweaty exercise towels if you do have the workout room.) I know, I'm getting greedy here, but just thinking about making life easier. :) You have plumbing down there already, so adding one might not be too much of a stretch. (I have a second laundry in my basement and I love it when we have tons of laundry, like after a vacation. I also use it for cleaning rags, towels and sheets from the guest room, etc., so it gets a lot of use.)...See MoreIn seek of advice on hardwood / engineered flooring
Comments (5)I'm reviving this. I have been having discussions with contractors and still haven't started the project yet. My likely contractor sent me to a flooring showroom. (Patriot Hardwood Floors & Supply.) He said they were the wholesale suppliers for the metro Boston area. I don't know if I actually believe that, but they seemed to have a decent selection to view. The guy I was talking to there didn't know all that much, but he pulled in a rep from Mercier who happened to be in the office then. I discussed my sagging floors with him. He insisted that I needed to: - level out the sags, with a leveling compound - then put another layer of plywood down, bringing the total up to 1 1/4", or at least 1". As I noted earlier, my ceilings are very low, so every little bit counts. I'll already lose 1/4"+ just going from laminate to engineered - more for solid wood. I certainly understand the leveling. Do I really need to add on top of that? At the showroom I was looking at my options. I want a very light look. Maple seems the best. And I want it to not have much yellow cast. Of the prefinished, unstained, there was noticable difference between grades and brands. The stuff they had that looked the best to me was Mercier - either the engineered or prefinished solid. They both have the micro-bevels. I would really prefer not to have those, but the only option for that seems to be site finished. I do think the toughness of the prefinished will be an advantage for me. I've gotted mixed impressions of the issues with the micro-bevels - my concern is "stuff" collecting in them and being harder to clean up. (I also don't like to look so much, but I think I can get used to that.) I did a search here and discovered boxers raising some concern about problems with their quality. The samples looked fine - better than the other stuff there. Expecially in the case of the engineered - they had a 7-ply product with the top layer being 4mm. Seemed far better than anything else. Also, they claim an anti-yellowing UV blocker. At the least their clear finish seemed less yellow than the alternatives. What other brands of prefinished (engineered or not) would be viable alternatives to Mercier? Finally, are the warranties that come with this stuff actually worth anything? I was looking at the Mercier warranty for the engineered stuff. It is for 35 years, which sounds impressive. But then I see it doesn't apply unless the finish has failed on at least 10% of the floor. I imagine that less that 10% of the average floor is in major traffic areas, or exposed to any special condition, such as sunlight. Also, I notice that they expect you to account for a 5% cutting loss and another 5% "normal defects" in what you order, and won't replace unless you exceed that. Are these terms normal? Is it a scam? Thanks in advance. I'm counting on you guys - I haven't found any other good source of advice on this subject....See More- 14 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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- 12 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 12 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 12 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 12 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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