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Asphalt driveway

11 years ago

I originally though I would tag onto another thread but realize I may get little notice that way. My home is 53 years old, not sure how old the driveway is, it was not done right, the blacktop is too thin, the garage concrete is as well but that I will patch...so here goes.

I am now in the process of trying to get quotes (off season) for a driveway (asphalt). So far the 2 quotes I have gotten are over $1000 apart, one wants to use 6-10inch base the other 8-10inch, one wants to use 3 inches of asphalt (does not specify about a base layer of asphalt over the stones) the other a 1 1/2 inch base layer and a 1 inch finish layer. I don't know if it is best to use a bast layer (recycled material) then a finish layer of just go with a finish layer all the way though. One wants to wait 2 weeks after laying the base, the other wants to do the job all in one day. Think I am confused? I am trying to get more quotes but this being January and the work cannot take place of tearing the driveway up till end of March early April here in the Northeast I suspect most of these buys are just kicking back.

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Comments (4)

harry_wild
11 years ago
Do you have the funds to do a concrete driveway? It about $10K! There is almost no maintenance and snow will melt away quickly when it warms up!

With blacktop; you have to resurface it every 5 years or so!
It also develops cracks too.

I have installed one 15 years ago; and I appreciate every day!
JRS11
Original Author
11 years ago
Here in the northeast I have read that concrete can be an issue due to the cold weather in winter and cracking. Blacktop is not perfect I know, I also do not intend if things work out to be in this house within 5 years. I have lived here for 12, the driveway was not great when I moved in and had been done very cheaply, maybe an inch of blacktop, so whatever I do will be better...so I guess the answer is no, I don't want to spend 10K but I will ask these guys for quotes just the same. Thanks
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What has worked for me....for 8 bucks, you can buy a bag of cold patch. Use a block of wood and a hammer and work it into the joint. Once you get near the top, use a little kerosene, diesel fuel or even charcoal lighter on the block as you tamp it in. It brings the aggregate closer together and makes for a very smooth surface. In the areas where you drive in and out and the weight of the vehicle might leave some indents, you might have to add another layer. This would happen usually during the summer where the heat softens the asphalt a bit and allows it to give. I never noticed it the first year but the second year, they showed up ever so slightly.Before filling in the indents, use some asphalt primer or tack coat. A small bottle of crack filler solution would work. That allows permanent bonding between the old and new. Then tamp it in like mentioned before. The next time you seal coat the asphalt, it will all look the same. I used this process about 5 years ago and it did the job with no regrets.
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I have used those Pli-Stix as well and they work great. It is pure asphalt so it is the same stuff that is used on the roads. Highly recommended over the cold pour stuff. I thought I would share what I did as I it worked quite well for me: - buy a torch extender: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WH0159-Universal-Torch-Extension-Hose-334246/202539579 . It comes with a belt hook so the propane cylinder can hang from your waist. I used the standard propane torch without issue. Not having used a torch much before this it took me a few tries to figure out that when lighting it lights easiest when the propane flow is very low. It also goes without saying I think that this project does not work well on windy days. - next, open a tuna can, remove tuna, make tuna salad, and have lunch. Preserve tuna can. - clean out and dry the tuna can - take some needle nose pliers and bend one side into a good sized spout - 90 degrees from the spout grab along the top of the can with the pliers and bend it down. When I did this the pliers poked a hole just along the rim of the can and made a perfect holding spot for the pliers to hold on to the can - cut the Pli-Stix into 4 inch or so lengths or whatever size you think you can jam into a tuna can - add one at a time into the can and use the torch to melt it while holding it with the needle nose pliers. When I did it, it flamed a bit which is expected as the plastic wrapper burns off, but sometimes the asphalt would catch and I would just remove the torch for a bit. Flaming a bit doesn't seem to impact the efficacy as far as I can tell. - pour out the hot liquid ashphalt into the crack - after a crack is filled I go over it with the torch to melt it smooth This is not a quick project but I prefer to do it once rather than every year (other than fixing any new cracks that appear). Chad
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doug_gb
11 years ago
I can tell you this: The most important part is having a solid, compacted base of class 5 limestone, or something like that. The base needs to extend to the very margins of the driveway. The base is the support for the asphalt topping.
JRS11
Original Author
11 years ago
Thank you. I have a company coming that I trust, I know the owners and have used them before. My garage floor is terrible as well and I may do that at the same time (concrete). Not sure how it was done but the floor is about 1" of concrete, has wood planks under it and has more cracks than one could imagine. I don't know how the inspector did not catch it and I did not (12 years ago). So this will probably be done at the same time, same company if possible. I think if I do it that way I may get a slight break. The garage quote I got today was $2700 but he said he thought he could get it approved at $2.3K, I know $2K is probably realistic, and with the driveway asphalt I will see what I can do, but I have to use a company I feel good about. This garage door, opener project has really grown to be overwhelming and now I think I am looking at a total of $7-8K

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