I've had some success with using 'foundation tar
coating' on the cracks. It skins over but doesn't
got hard and brittle, like the crack repair in a
jug.

You know the filler is flammable when melted?

Exactly what brickeye said! This isn't a DIY job unless you are willing to risk third degree burns. If you overheat the filler, you'll have it flash over into flames. Just like a grease fire, the worst thing you can do is to try to put it out with water. The resulting major fireball explosion will take out anything within a 50 foot radius. That includes you. Even if you keep your head and use a fire extinguisher, you ruined the batch. And, if you don't heat it up enough, it won't adhere properly.

This is a job that takes an experienced pro to do safely.

thanks for the advice guys... better leave this for the pros....

Hi,

I recently tried the Pli-Stix, (Dalton Enterprise) product which I bought at Home Depot. It takes a while and I am still learning but it does do a good job.

There are some tricks to this some of which I learned from the Amazon web site from buys who also have used this stuff.

1) It is pretty time consuming to apply. So it is easier on your back if you can sit on the drive way. So pick a warm day you will be there a while.

2) It is essential that you get the right blow torch. I used a Benzomatic TS 8000 from Home Depot. I chose this because it used MAP gas (less important) and it was REGULATED (very important). Regulated is essential because you will be holding the torch at an angle to heat the road If the torch is not regulated, it will cough and die out as the liquid gas reaches the torch. The other solution is to use a gas hose so that you can keep the gas bottle uptight. The instant on feature really helps too.

3) Wear gloves and eye protection when using the torch

4) The temp affects Pli Stix. I was using it on a warm day and in the sun it behaves like play dough. SO you can stretch it to push it into cracks. It also becomes very sticky. You want it to stick to the road not your hands and tools. I had a bucket of water which I dipped my hands into and the screw driver I was using. This keeps the stuff from sticking so that you can stuff it into the crack.

5) Cutting pli stix was tricky for me. I think because of the temp. It tends to stick. If you need to cut it into strips keep it cool. It is less sticky. Also dip your tool into water, or use some silicon or WD40 on the cutter.

6) Stuffing into cracks takes a while, this is the slowest bit of the job. Hence if you can sit it really helps. Large cracks are easy. Thin cracks is a screwdriver job, and using your hands. Remember to keep them wet to avoid sticking.

7) The easiest bit was the blow torch bit. Keep the flame moving so not to burn. You want to melt not burn. I found I could do about 6 inches at a time in about 10 seconds or so depending on crack size.

8) Super thin cracks I am still trying to figure out. Some people say cut the Pli Stix length wise. I tried but I think the product was too warm on the day I was using it and it stuck to the blade and was not easy to cut.

9) The final seal looked great and very durable. Only time will tell. So far looks much better than the other products which I tried. All the other products failed over the winter

Best, Mike.

stinkytiger-
It's been a few years since you applied the Pli-Stix. How did all the effort turn out? Did it last thru the winter?

Hello rrr234: Hot crack fill DIY is not that hard to do, I've been doing it for years on the asphalt at home with perfect results. The others are right, it can be dangerous, but if done properly can be fairly safe, cheap, and extremely durable. It really is a piece of cake to do and can save a lot of money. The instructions are lengthy and a little confusing the first time around, so I may post a video that will be easier to apply as a 1st time DIYr.

cars2275-
When you post a video on how to do hot crack sealing, make sure to post a link in this thread.

Jeff

I have used those Pli-Stix as well and they work great. It is pure asphalt so it is the same stuff that is used on the roads. Highly recommended over the cold pour stuff.

I thought I would share what I did as I it worked quite well for me:

- buy a torch extender: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WH0159-Universal-Torch-Extension-Hose-334246/202539579 . It comes with a belt hook so the propane cylinder can hang from your waist. I used the standard propane torch without issue. Not having used a torch much before this it took me a few tries to figure out that when lighting it lights easiest when the propane flow is very low. It also goes without saying I think that this project does not work well on windy days.

- next, open a tuna can, remove tuna, make tuna salad, and have lunch. Preserve tuna can.

- clean out and dry the tuna can

- take some needle nose pliers and bend one side into a good sized spout

- 90 degrees from the spout grab along the top of the can with the pliers and bend it down. When I did this the pliers poked a hole just along the rim of the can and made a perfect holding spot for the pliers to hold on to the can

- cut the Pli-Stix into 4 inch or so lengths or whatever size you think you can jam into a tuna can

- add one at a time into the can and use the torch to melt it while holding it with the needle nose pliers. When I did it, it flamed a bit which is expected as the plastic wrapper burns off, but sometimes the asphalt would catch and I would just remove the torch for a bit. Flaming a bit doesn't seem to impact the efficacy as far as I can tell.

- pour out the hot liquid ashphalt into the crack

- after a crack is filled I go over it with the torch to melt it smooth

This is not a quick project but I prefer to do it once rather than every year (other than fixing any new cracks that appear).

Chad

lingrell-

That sounds like a good way to go. Are you applying the flame to the outside of the tuna can? Then when one 4" pli-stix melts add another and another....until you have enough to pour into the crack you want to fill?

Jeff

I have seen a safer and maybe a quicker method of using the PLI-STIX product. Force the PLI-STIK into the crack with a tool that fits your needs and then using your torch apply enough heat to melt the STIK. If the crack is to small to to get the STIK into it, you can stretch the STIK by pulling on it to reduce the diameter to fit the crack. The plastic wrap around the STIK, may flame slightly, but not enough to burn you. Good Luck

Tony

I too did the same as Don Merkel, turkey fryer and large pot for melting. I however didn't think of the chilling the block to break it up. I basically used a saw blade, chisel and hammer and pried off pieces, was not fun. I made sure I took my time at heating it along with plenty of stirring and it was no problem. Its been approx. 4 years now and most of the repairs are still fine. There are a few I will redo this year because I did not realize I should have filled them with sand if they where deep. I will also dust the surface with black sand to help with the heat during the summer time (in case someone parks or cuts their tires on top of the soft patch). Those ideals came from a former asphalt repair person. Hope this helps.

Instead of turkey fryer, should an old rice cooker also work? The cooker is made of aluminum, not steel.

If chilling the block makes it easier to break up then what is the use of using it? I live in Ohio and the point is to not have the cracks reopen each winter!!!!!!

I used QPR 6690 hot applied crack filler ($50). (Crack stix failed after one winter.)

I could not find the machine to rent, so I used a camping stove to melt it in a pan,

then poured into the cracks. Used a Dollar Store long handled spatula to compress

smooth, and spread the material as you go. Very good result. Ideally, one person pours

and another uses a long handled propane torch to heat the spatula, and smooth the pour.

Took a while on my 2500 sf drive, with alligator craching, but it should last.

Note: I chilled the 25 lb blocks in a 5 gal bucket of ice water, then could cut the still-gummy material with a fine sawzall blade.

Next time, I’ll try the turkey fryer, as temperature control is really important.

i went to goodwill and bought the biggest stainless pot and a small saucepan.

Cut the block in half, it can easily be done with a razor knife by spreading the halves as you go.

I used the stove burner on my bbq grill to melt it. it really didnt make any mess pop the half block in there leaving the outer plastic on as itll melt. cover over med heat 1.5-2hrs until melted.

i moved the pot to a camping stove near my drive to keep it hot. dip the sauce pan in and pour in to cracks. i beat a little spout into the sauce pan for better control and after pouring i just smooth with the bottom of the sauce pan. pan will be covered in goop so use thick gloves.

dont let the naysayers scare you off. its a diy with some common sense and care. flash fire doing this is certainly less likely than cooking a turkey lol