Do NOT sand it!

Using a non-toxic stripper(scraping it off and disposing per local rules) is a much safer method.

It might take two or more applications of stripper.

The hanging problem could be difficult to fix. Depends on whether the frame is stripped or the screw hole in the door. Either is not really a DIY fix for a long term solution.

If you decide to fix/use the old door, getting the right hardware(latch/deadbolt) depends on setback. Setback is the distance from the door edge to the center of the hole for the latch and deadbolt. The most common setbacks are 2&3/8" and 2&1/2".

Older doors can have different measurements. The size of the hole for the lock/deadbolt and the hole for the working part of the latch/deadbolt can be different.

My point is this, given the possibility of having all those areas be problems means a new prehung door might be the least expensive option. A new door will take a couple of hours to install---fixing the old one might take days.

Mr. HandyMac - Wow, thank you so much! It amazes me what a little expertise can do. lol I've been trying to puzzle out this problem for awhile now and you've made my decision very easy with your advice. I guess I should have asked sooner. :-)

Buying a new door -- I am under the impression that my old wood door is made of higher quality wood than I am going to find today and maybe even better construction. Am I off the mark in that regard? Can you recommend a couple of quality manufacturers of wood doors? Manufacturers of the hardware and locks?

If I want to hire someone to install a pre hung door and get the hardware and the lock done right, would I be looking for a carpenter, handyman, person working for the door manufacturer? It has been my experience that it's not all that easy to get an exterior door installed correctly and weather tight.

What do I do with the old lead paint door?

prairiemoon2:

Put on a respirator, put the door on horses, and sand it outside. Children and pregnant women are the most vulnerable to lead paint hazards. You need to be careful, but not overreact.

The door can be adjusted and/or rehung to work perfectly. This will be much less expensive than replacement. Ask around for some referrals or try www.homeadvisor.com.

My advice about not sanding is not over reacting. The much safer way is with stripper---since sanding is not a good way to remove any kind of paint. The sandpaper gums up and it will take many dozens of pieces of sand paper to accomplish what two or three coats of stripper can do.

It is true many doors can be rehabbed. Finding a person who has the knowledge to properly rehab a door is difficult. Many handy persons/etc. think a proper way to repair a stripped screw hole is to cram it full of toothpicks and glue.

The condition of the frame of the door may be such rehabbing it is not a good decision. There is no way we can determine that over the Internet.

Your best first step should be to find an experienced handyman---I doubt most carpenters/contractors would take such a small job----who can inspect the door and frame and give you real advice. And, getting two or three opinions/bids would be better.

Knowing how difficult it is to find an experienced person to rehab a door factored into my advice to have a new prehung installed. The labor costs for the prehung should be less than rehab labor costs,

Have you looked at fiberglas or steel doors? Most can be painted and many look like wood. If you use a storm door, a steel door is a better choice than wood or fiberglas in areas where afternoon sun heats the door. And they cost less.

A 1960's door has no real "old house" value, not like a door from the 1860's would, so getting rid of the door properly wouldn't be a real loss in historic value. Some 60's glass is more valuable than newer glass but not that much.

A 60's door is also probably not superior to a modern door, but money talks. Buy cheap get cheap - don't do that.

Keep the door if you like it. Call around, get some bids for both, keep the door or installing a new door, and ask each contractor to explain his reasoning about keeping or losing the door when he sees it.

Handymac is right - don't sand the door. While we often over-react to what's in the news, because the press has trained us to overreact, the bottom line is lead is bad, so why take the chance of aerosolizing the lead or contaminating the soil.

Hopefully you'll come to a decision and get the job done. Personally, I'm always torn between traditional and new. I like solid wood doors but also like steel doors. Steel can be insulated well and can last a lifetime with little maintenance but feel different than a really heavy solid wood door.

How about some pics of your current door?

FYI... glue and toothpicks does work but it depends on the application when considering if its the right thing to do. :)

IâÂÂll try to get a photo of the door.

HandyMac, Is there such a thing as a non toxic stripper? And one thing I wanted to mention. I was not necessarily wanting to strip it down to bare wood. There has to be probably 3 or 4 layers of paint on there, but it was my understanding that if you cover lead paint with non lead paint that seals it in there and unless it chips off later, you are no longer exposed to it. So the door is not chipping at all, I was going to just very lightly rough it up to hold paint and put another top layer on it. I definitely was not considering sanding this door down to bare wood.

I am the person who would not even use glue but stick the toothpicks in the hole with a new screw. [g] ItâÂÂs worked perfectly before. lol

I agree, you are right, of course, an experienced person here to look at it will be needed. I am just trying to get a broad idea of which direction to go. And to understand what people are talking about when they come out.

And I do agree that it is difficult to find a person that is qualified. Many say they are but you find out in the end, they werenâÂÂt.

I donâÂÂt think I am going to be considering steel doors. IâÂÂm pretty attached to wood doors. And the door faces East, and with the outer entry the sun is a minor factor.

Trebruchet, Thanks for another point of view and for the link. IâÂÂm mulling it all over.

MissingNoFingers - I didnâÂÂt think I had an heirloom door here. ItâÂÂs a cape with a pretty average, small front door. But it is solid wood paneled door and I think the price for those start at about $800.

Thanks for the illustration, very helpful.

Does the fact I was only planning on giving it a quick once over to paint it make a difference? Could I paint without sanding, since it isnâÂÂt peeling or chipping?

Here is a photo from online of a door that looks a lot like mine, minus the nice trim around it.

The stripper will probably not take off all the paint at once.

And you are correct about overpainting lead based paint and safety. However, many areas(counties/cities) follow EPA and other government recommendations on dealing with lead paint as illustrated in the following article.

http://www.va-home-inspection.com/Lead-Paint.html

Here is a link that might be useful: One variety of non toxic stripper

One thing everyone seems to be forgetting is that lead makes terrific paint. Who says the paint has to be stripped? Knock off the loose stuff and sand it enough to give the new paint a bite.

Ever see a door with 4 or 5 coats of paint on it?

If you want to just paint, don't bother prep at all, just use Bullseye primer---even sticks to dirt---and slather it on.

Handymac, thanks for the link. Had read these guidelines when we first started working on the front hall. Really scares you reading all that. :-)

Thank you both for the concept that I might be able to paint over it without even sanding it.

I'm still thinking about getting a new door, I keep going back and forth about it.

Have any idea where I might consider looking for a good door? The Big Box Stores, or a Manufacturer that specializes in doors and windows?

Thanks!!

A real lumberyard for an a basic type door if fine. They will either order it in from a supply house prehung or hang it themselves. Either way if fine, just stay away from box stores in my opinion as the helps knowledge generally leaves allot to be desired. Look for Simpson, Jeldwen, Lemieux or Rogue Valley, paint it with a good oil based primer and good quality latex exterior paint, BM, SW, or the like from a paint store, again not a box store. I would also recommend getting solid clear jambs and brickmold casing and not fingerjointed.

Great, I appreciate a list of manufacturers too. I have been using SW paint for everything due to their line of non toxic, environmentally friendly paint.

I'll look up the terns you've mentioned about what type of jambs and casings to get.

I really appreciate ALL the time you've all given me to help me sort this out! Has made the process a lot less confusing.