Manzate or Mancozeb to kill the spores, with Banner Maxx as a preventative, and alternate Banner Maxx with something else--for example, Compass, to avoid allowing resistance to build up. You can mix the Mancozeb with the Banner Maxx. The Mancozeb is a contact fungicide and the Banner Maxx is a systemic that works differently. go to rosemania, click on 'Recommends' on the left hand side, then scroll down a tiny bit and click on 'Successful Spray Programs', which is in the middle of the page. The same information is right there. There's another page called 'spray reference' that has the amounts to use.

I went through all of this. Mongoct and Bill V. are very helpful. Joist. you may or may not have the ridgidity to tile with stone. It requires a stiffer floor system than ceramic. Check the JohnBridge web site and look at their "deflectolator" to determine, roughly, your capacity. Subfloor. If you use cement board it has to be thinset inplace as well as screwed down. The thin set is not to glue in place but to fill voids that may flex and cause cracking of the tile system down the road. If you use plywood as the underlayment it needs to be screwed down on center every 6" not glued down. Ditra is a decoupleing membrain that goes down after your self leveling compound is installed. Check out my post on floor joist on the remodeling forum and here. There is a link to the remodeling forum that is very detailed and time consuming to read and interpret. I provide a link below. Check out Bill V's. post on frequently asked questions. bathroom tile FAQ's-bathrooms Check out Staceyneil's post on " Self-leveling compound & radiant heat: what I learned..." Mongoct has very detailed information throughout different posts. Here is a link that might be useful: Progress on floor prep for slate tile

If I were you'd I'd look through craigslist for a used one that will last you until the remodel. Don't worry about French door or bin sizes, just get one that works and doesn't look beat up. That way you're spending as little as possible and not buying something that might not fit the plans later. Since you'll only have it a few months you'll probably be able to sell it for what you paid so it's really a zero cost option in the end.

ok..i was over at the house last night rearranging and rearranging. Here's some different looks... 444 - loveseat is infront of window. couch on main wall. 446 - this is to show how far the loveseat would be from entertainment stand if you put it to the right of the entrance when you walk in. 447 - loveseat is angled 448 - shows how much space is wasted behind with loveseat being angled. just looks outta wack. 452 - this pic was standing inside the room. loveseat is on left. sofa is infront of window. e. stand would be on main wall 455 - shows a different angle with seating arrangement like 452. ruler shows how far stand would come out from wall. and that's if the stand were centered on the main wall. I'm honestly thinking that i'm going to have to put the entertainment stand on the back wall (415) when you walk in. It does fit on the broken up walls but because there will be no room on either side i think it may look funny. Plus, the wall to the right when you walk in has all the light switches so it would have to stick out a little more. gk5040 you said about float the sofa straight infront of the tv wall.... would you stick it about mid room? or back farther? i didn't try the floating arrangement last night. what about all the wasted space behind then? You're right, my furniture is DEEP. i'm glad i waited to buy end tables. the ones i wanted are again HUGE bombe style :) I'd actually consider selling the entertainment stand before switching new furniture. I had a heck of a time in the stores trying to find something and i really like it. I could always just use the middle piece of the e. stand but..... thoughts?