Sounds like the humidity is too high. Ducts in conditioned spaces shouldn't be dripping. Ducts in unconditioned spaces must be insulated so they do not drip. It seems possible that since insulation went in, it's doing such a good job keeping the heat out that your AC never runs enough to lower the humidity. You could think about having the system rebalanced so maybe it circulates better (air must flow freely from all rooms to the air returns) And consider adding another dehumidifier.
As for the flooring; what kind? how wide? age? Warping how, exactly? Pictures would be helpful.
Casey

If the wood flooring arrived very dry and wasn't stored in the house long enough for it to adjust to a higher moisture content them it would expand and buckle. If that is the case it must be removed and reinstalled or the humidity has to be reduced.

The ducts are in the attic within the insulated area, so I think the intent is for the attic to be semi-conditioned with spray foam in the rafters. Today the temperature is 77 degrees and relative humidity is 80% in the semi-conditoned attic.

The AC should actually be undersized for the area. We kept the existing AC even though we added 700 sqft. Our AC sub felt that using spray foam would enable us to keep our existing 2 ton unit, and it appears to keep up well enough from a temperature stand point.

The flooring is 4" pine original to the house. Floors are cupping with outside edges of each board rising. I'll try to post some pictures tonight.
Thanks.

You have trapped humidity in the structure and the wood is moving.

Wood changes size and shape as it absorbs and releases moisture.

There is no way to stop it.

The link below is to the USDA 'Wood Handbook,' Chapter 3.

It deals with changes in the size and shape of wood as the moisture content changes.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wood Handbook, Chapter 3

Yes, I think that is right. I opened some access into the attic to provide some cooling up there (72°), but the relative humidity has remained high (80%).

Is there a way to ensure the A/C is removing moisture. The drain is piped into a plumbing vent stack, so I can't actually see or measure how much water is being removed. Could a drain be plugged? The A/C is cooling well and seems to be running a fair amount of time. So I'm having a hard time believing it's not removing moisture.

Thanks for the help.
Gary

I'll give a slight nutshell answer or analysis...first, you have an older home and you sealed the "lid" by spray foaming the attic. Was anything done to the basement in terms of moisture mitigation?

Old houses tend admit moisture in the house through the basement. Could be a rubble foundation, moisture coming through a poured foundation, etc. It might not always be liquid, it can be simple wicking and moisture vapor.

Before your house was tightened up, this moisture vapor likely passed through your house due to excessive (by today's standards) air infiltration; leaky windows, inadequate insulation, an open attic, and plumbing, electrical, and mechanical penetrations in the varying floor platforms, etc.

It could be that you still have the same moisture coming in to the house through the foundation and basement or crawl space, but it's getting trapped on the higher floors due to the now tightened attic.

Moisture generation points might need to be looked at too. Kitchen ventilation, bathroom and shower ventilation, etc.

If moisture coming on through the basement walls is an issue, that should be addressed. If you have penetrations through the basement ceiling into the living space above, those can be sealed with canned foam.

Now, you sealed up the attic in terms of the attic no longer being vented, but is it now part of the conditioned space? ie, are there any air conditioning vents or returns up there so air is circulated and conditioned? Or is it just dead space?

You need a pro HVAC person in pronto. There is WAY too much humidity in that house for properly conditioned space. Keeping the old unit may not have been the right thing to do, but making the attic "semi conditioned" space was definately the WRONG thing to do without sealing out other sources of entry for the humidity. You need to combine roof insulation with vapor barriers underneath the home as well as sealing off any of the cracks and crevices and adding wall insulation. Having water dripping from the ducts tells me that there is too great a differential in the temperature/humidity levels between the "semi conditioned" attic and the actual conditioned space inside the home. You're getting hot moist air meeting cooler dryer air, and the dripping is the result. I had a cousin who had this problem in an older 1950's home where he thought it was smart to run the attic fan to keep the attic cool. Instead, he pulled cold air from the conditioned space (but not well sealed) below into the hot and moist attic and created a mini waterfall in his home. He ended up having to rip out most of the attic insulation that had molded and redo things completely, including a new roof with proper ridge venting for the attic.

The attic is dead space so I've created some air circulation in the attic and the humidity has dropped to 70% and appears to be dropping. Still no change in the wood floors, but that may take some time.

The house is raised with a crawl space above ground. No basement as we live in New Orleans. There is currently no moisture barrier or insulation under the house.

I guess the question now is... do I provide a supply and return vent in the attic to ensure good circulation, or apply closed cell foam under the house to keep additional moisture out?