All gel stainers--foam brush, rag, or reg brush?
elle3
11 years ago
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sloyder
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
General Finishes Gel Stain Update
Comments (19)Brand General Finishes Product Gel Stain top coat is Gel Top Coat. All are in blue containers. You can locate a store that sells it here. http://www.generalfinishes.com/dealers.htm Here's instructions [thanks to celticmoon] http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0619093520899.html You can clip it and save in case it ever gets lost in space. On the top of a mesage is a little section that says 'clippings' and you can clip the post. Or just print it out! Trish...See MoreUsing gel stain on my old tables
Comments (5)IÂve used the gel stain to build up a color gradually. On bare wood, regular stain is much easier. But sometimes IÂve bought a piece already finished and wanted it to match my existing furniture better. The gel stain works well for that. It will take much longer to dry over finished wood. Give yourself plenty of time and donÂt rush it. Make sure it is really dry before reapplying the next coat. Like the other poster, I thin it a bit and it spreads better. I use a good quality bristle brush, to get an even thickness of coat is too hard to do with a rag. When it is thinned there will be fewer brushstrokes visible too. IÂve even tinted it with artists oil colors when I wanted to adjust the shade a bit to match something better (though if you do that drying time is increased even more.). I donÂt like Polyshades; it puddles in the low parts....See MoreGF Gel Stain - safety questions
Comments (6)I believe the problem is more common with (boiled, i.e., catalyzed with a drier) linseed oil than with varnishes. Problem is, you don't always know what's in that can, so err on the side of safety. The oxidation (i.e., curing) of linseed oil is exothermic (generates heat). The general rule is these sorts of chemical reactions increase their rate with every rise of 18F / 10C in temperature. So it goes like reaction generates heat --> heat increases rate of reaction --> faster reaction generates more heat ---> more heat increases rate of reaction -->...repeat... --> ignition temperature reached with ready supply of oxygen and fuel. Despite what the Arm-r-Seal label says or used to say, "Oil and Urethane Blend" it's a thinned varnish. The label is finish doublespeak for varnish. I tell people it's like picking up a loaf of bread whose label reads "Flour, water, and yeast blend." But I do as the others, hang the rags up and dry until hard. I use the top edge of an empty metal trash can outside, throw them over a bush leaf-bare in the winter, etc. Every one of those safety cans I've seen has prominently displayed "Empty Every Night" stenciled across the front....See MoreNeed help from gel stain pros...
Comments (28)My experience is “DON’T USE MINWAX FOR ANYTHING, ESPECIALLY THEIR POLYSTAIN”!!!!! I sat around for 2 weeks trying to stain everything and having issues with stain dripping or being uneven and stripping it back off to do it again. I knew it must be the stain because I was doing everything according to what I’ve seen on YouTube by Bruce for the Minwax products. The only problem was that that was the only color in the stores that I liked (Bombay Mahogany) When I started reading reviews I saw that everyone was having same issues. I finally got in touch w/ painter friend who said that’s why he didn’t use Minwax products anymore. He hooked my up with Old Master Gel Stain in Rich Mahogany and wow what a difference. Bad news is I had to strip all the old stuff off so it’s like I did my cabinets 2x. Still not quite done but I’ll post pics off my progress and the Minwax nightmare vs what Old General looks like. My cabinets are pine and with gel stain you don’t have to condition wood but with regular stain always use wood conditioner first or it will be a blotchy job. Also you need to make sure any scratches or flaws in wood are sanded out or stain will highlight them big time. The last piece of advice is that when you’re sanding to get scratches out, you must sand through the grits. For example: if you’re using 80 grit to get out a deeper scratch, you’ll want to follow up with a 150 grit then a 180 grit or 240 grit. You can’t just jump from 80 grit to 180 or 240, trust me I tried. 240 can remove scratches 80 grit leaves, by sanding through the grits you’re leaving smaller scratches until with the last grit the eye can’t see any scratch. To check if scratches are gone hold wood horizontal while shine light from the bottom of wood piece, with eyes just above eye level peer down wood toward light and any flaws should be visible. Also when using oil based stains if you wipe wood down with mineral spirits first any scratches will show up right away. Let the mineral spirits dry and then sand out....See Morecelticmoon
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