Not that I know of. But my thought is that the external insulation is so minimal--BSC and Building America recommend a minimum of 2"XPS for high performance in a cold climate--that the wall might still be cool. Plus there's likely extensive thermal bridging at the top and wicking up of moisture through the walls (unless there is insulation under the wall or a thermal break). If it were my home, I'd add at least an inch of high-R foam on the interior as well. And don't forget the rim joist area, either with foam board well sealed, or easier and surer, spray foam. Spray-foaming the rim joist area is an essential step in creating a healthy energy-efficient basement. Here is a link that might be useful: High R Value Foundation Assemblies

What is the exterior siding? My first inclination is to remove the batt and use the cellulose insulation. If you can remove the siding and reapply, you could add a external WRB onto the outside of the property. I would be surprised that there is no vapor barrier on the outside of the wall. There should also be a water/vapor barrier from the tile to the insulation or interior cavity. You may want to try this question on the remodeling forum. Good luck!

That was an incredible article! And describes exactly what my problem is. Thank you. I mentioned that there had been panelling or wainscoting. This was is one of the smaller rooms. Unfortunately it had been covered with materials that blocked any vapour movement. And it was also riddled with woodworm, so it had to go. The wood supports nailed into the bricks were fine at higher levels, but had rotted closer to the ground - capillary action with ground water which I can do nothing about. Even if I removed my current floor and waterproofed it, the fact that I have neighbours sharing both inside walls means that their water will just come over any barriers. And replacing the floor is also (currently) out of my budget. So far, the lime plaster I have has softened and crumbled in the areas where damp has come through because of the uncovered and currently unused chimney, near the single glazed and rotten windows and near the broken guttering. Only a small area has been affected by the groundwater. I might not need to replace all plastering. Where the wainscoting has been taken doen, there is bare brick. But replacing this wainscoting would be a great idea, especially if I can then plaster and paint with a breathable colour on top. It also means I can hide gas and water pipes behind them. I suppose the last layer lasted for 80 years, although the woodworm had a party for most of that time. Perhaps there are non-wood breathable materials I could use? Wood would be an expensive option for the square footage. And how clever would it be to add a layer of cellulose or sheepswool under this? Or an insulation material which can deal with damp? However, internal humidity will be a lot higher soon, due to the replacement of windows (they have trickle vents, but a trickle is nothing compared to the air movement I have now!), new and insulated roof, blocking the chimney opening with a gasfire flue and replacement of gaps in the mortar. That's my fear - that even by having a house that lets moisture in and out, it's still pretty airtight and keeps the inside too humid. And a complete ventilation system is quite expensive over here, although I'll have a unit placed in the bathroom. With the latest European EPC standards, my refusal to have damp proof chemicals, thick impermeable insulation and artificial ventilation means the value of my house suffers. But they can change what they want when I'm in a retirement home! Maybe the regulations will have accepted that most of their recommendations for older houses are incorrect unless they are knocked down and rebuilt which would be a real pity. Thanks for that article. Absolutely brilliant! So next question: is wooden wainscoting the only breathable option? Are there other products out there, both modern or traditional looking, that would work as wainscoting panels? And would I be adding to the problem by sticking a layer of hygroscopic insulation between it (might mean the dog barks less loudly!). And apart from leaving the windows open in summer and winter for 20 minutes a day (prefer to save the heat in the winter), what other ways might I increase ventilation/reduce condensation into the brickwork without burning a hole in my pocket? Thanks AGAIN!!! Photo shows the remnants of original wainscoting supports and brick underneath. Sarah.

If the carpet is soaked, then I would say a lot of the smell is from the carpet. I highly recommend you remove the carpet and then implement a 'wait and see' approach. If the carpet was 'soaked' I worry that the WALLS have been infected with mold. Anything that got wet will be suspect. That means drywall, studs, etc. Once you remove the carpet, you will be able to see/test for moisture around the edges of the wall. Damaged drywall is easy to figure out. It will be significantly weaker than unaffected areas. It it is damaged you should be able to push a pencil through it. If it is in tact the pencil won't do anything but make a mark. The structure BEHIND the drywall will be the problem child. The musty smell is the indicator that the infection is there. Where the infection has taken hold (carpet, drywall, studs, etc) is to be determined. You will need to have a REALLY good look at what became infected before installing new flooring. This project could be a bit more than you thought. I would talk with your bank to see how much financial backing you can access should this project fall into the 'worst case scenario'. I would also ask the company that is dealing with your moisture system what is the most common flooring they see when they install their product. They will be able to tell you 'easiest' type of flooring they deal with. They will also tell you the biggest PITA they deal with as well. But while you wait for decisions on carpet, etc, please check with your bank to ensure you have access to funds should this project to south.