SIGNIFICANT WATER POOLING ACROSS NEW DECK SURFACE We recently had a deck built with TimberTech Azek and it looks great. The product was recommended by our contractor and Big Creek Lumber. It is not cheap, nor was the installation ($40,000+). We had realistic expectations, but now we have problems. PROBLEMS: We have significant water pooling/cupping from a couple rains and some heavy mist. (I've also noticed dried dirt marks left behind when it finally dries, but that's a secondary issue.) CUSTOMER SERVICE: I reached out via phone to a representative from the website. He assured me that some "beading" was natural and over time this would stop. When it didn't stop, I reached out to my contractor because this is not "beading"; this is pooling. I waited a few more weeks and after more pooling from heavy mist and fog, I reached out to my contractor. My conscientious contractor said he has used this material before and has not seen or heard of the issue from any of his clients. He promptly gave me his rep's name and number. The rep said she's had no issues over the past 2 years and she would check—with someone—at the company. She emailed saying that "beading" was normal at first. I sent her deck photos of: Pooling/cupping from rain comparing my neighbor's dry, non-cupping, deck (with another composite-type product). So side by side, at the same time of day, with same weather conditions and sun exposure, my neighbor's deck was dry while mine was significantly pooling with standing water along the entire surface. I also sent a photo of significant pooling/cupping from heavy mist. I have asked the rep for a timeline of when this should stop or resolve itself. I haven't heard back yet and am concerned. A site search brought me to this page with the following: TimberTech's stated superiority over wood decking cupping. Product promotion that helps prevent cupping. Suggestions to dry your deck with a squeegee or mop when there is standing water. Dangers of "standing water," becoming slick (falling danger) and damage to the wood substructure. In summary, the site does not come out and admit pooling/cupping, but it talks about dangers and care of standing water. WHERE TO GO FROM HERE: I'll be calling the rep and asking for a site visit asap, unless anyone else has a suggestion.

After over 40 years of cleaning kitchens I have had every kind of kitchen. And all products have their pros and cons. There are no absolutes, just choices you prefer. Top of range -- stainless steel is easier to clean and keep looking nearly new than black porcelain. They both are a PITA to keep clean and not show water spots. Both get scratched, though I think the SS shows the scrathes more in my experience. And black porcelain can chip and shows dust more. I found SS to be hotter to work with, it seemed to relect the heat. I would be sweating up a storm by the time I was finished making pancakes for breakfast. Black porcelain not so much. Cabinets -- stained wood is easier than painted (but how tough is it to keep the painted looking good, and how do you do it?) I found that stained wood doesn't show dirt, grease or stains as much as painted. Especially if it is a dark stain. And after years of cleaning painted (white), I wore through the finish. Not so on stained which had over 20 years of cleaning. Also white really shows dust and dirt. Appliances -- stainless steel is generally the toughest to keep up. I got all SS in my new kitchen remodel. I absolutely HATE it! I have tried every product out there and it still looks streaky. I can't get that showroom look no matter how hard I try, even cleaning every day doesn't help. I have also had white, Harvest Gold, and black. I hate to say it but the Gold appliances didn't show the dust and dirt as much. Really ugly but easy maintenance. Black really showed the dust and white showed dirt and any spilled food like spag sauce. Textured black didn't show fingerprints or streaks. There is nothing really easy to maintain out there. And did I mention I HATE SS! Floors -- stone or ceramic tile is easier than wood to keep looking new. I have had real linoleum floors, vinyl, ceramic and porcelain tile and old wood. Linoleum was the easiest to maintain and easiest on the feet. Wood the hardest to keep up and warped when there was a leak, and there were gouge marks when things were dropped. But also easy on the feet. I have large porcelain tile now and find it easy to keep clean. I have dark beige grout so doesn't show stains. And things haven't been dropped as much any more.(DS is grown.) And I don't do as much standing as I use to and have padded rugs so no strain on the feet. Ceramic tile chips and shows the dark color underneath, porcelain tile is harder and has the color all the way through. Counters -- too many opinions to sort but it sounds like Quartz (e.g. Caesarstone) is easiest. I have had tile, laminate, and granite. Laminate is easily stained and scarred. And I hate tile and cleaning the white grout lines, unless you get that new grout that is easy to clean and doesn't stain. I was going to get Silestone but my sister-in-law got it first and has not been happy with it. There is a slight color difference that developed over time between pieces and flaws in the material. It is no easier to keep clean then my sealed granite. I have had my granite almost 2 years now (Verde Butterfly) and I have no stains and it looks as good as new. I think it is just a matter of what you like looks wise. Sinks -- seems like Silgranit has lots of votes for ease of upkeep and stainless has mixed reviews. Fireclay, porcelain cast-iron have their advocates and seem to be problem-free. I ordered a Franke fireclay farm house sink for my remodel, 3 times. It kept coming in cracked or chipped or just plain broken. I went next with a Kindred SS sink. I find it easy to keep clean and almost indestructible. It does develop scratches over time, but that is just it's patina. And I do have a bottom rack to protect the bottom surface. I have had white procelain cast iron sinks and they chip, plus it is hard to keep them looking really nice unless you bleach them all the time. Faucets -- chrome is easiest to keep in a pristine like new condition, followed by polished nickel and then the "living finishes"-- which are intended to change over time I have always had chrome and it is easy to maintain and is classic. But the shiny chrome shows water spots and the finish will wear off in time. This time I got brushed nickel with a PVD finish and it has held up well for 2 years. And the brushed finish doesn't show water spots. The only thing I definitely would recommend NOT having is wood floors in a kitchen. It is very expensive if your dishwasher or plumbing springs a leak and floods your kitchen. Been there, done that. Just my humble opinion.

Julia, when you put the slider was there any residual affect to your inside floors? If I do something similar, I am hoping there is no problem with existing hardwood as I am not ready to sand or re-screen. I will most likely put the deck in first as we don't have the money quite yet for the slider. The installer said there should be no damage to my deck but I forgot to ask about inside issues. I think the painting the surrounding trim around the windows black helped tie it all together. Before the deck and new slider, how did you get from the kitchen to outside when grilling, etc.?

Also what grade of cement should I be making sure they use and how thick should it be? Does 35psi and 4" thick with a brushed finished be the right thing to require? I too live in Florida and although all our kids combined do not live with us, we have grandchildren that will visit and have friends w/kids. We are also dancers and the patio will be used for dancing too, so we were looking for a non-slip material and one that stays cool in the heat. This is why we were looking at travertine. Can we find travertine that is under $10 a sq ft that can look modern? Preferably $7 a sq ft? If so, how would it be laid? I believe the total sq ft for around the pool and the patio is under 600 sq ft. The entire space is approx 40x 30. Do you know how much stamped concrete will cost per sq ft?