It is still FMQ when marking. In fact, many FMQ teachers teach that you should always pre-mark, except for the SID parts. I mark some, free hand others. If you're just learning, I suggest marking and then going very slowly to follow the marks. The fact you are moving it to follow those lines is what makes it free motion.
Linda

I find it helpful to have some FM "designs" that I copied from a friend's book. I trace over the chosen design with my index finger - over and over again - to get the design in my head and to understand the flow of the design, how they connect and how to enter and exit the design.

For years I used my own free form "loop de loops" but now I've branched out to use "windy sky" and "bubbles" designs. It is a lot of fun to learn a new design that once used a few times will be in my head to use again. It does take me a few minutes of FM quilting the design to get in the "groove."

Teresa

Before I do my design on my quilt I make a sample copy . I get some muslin and batting and put it on the frame and then I pratice the design....I always premark or I trace my design out on my quilt to follow the design.......this way I feel I am in more control.... there are many products out there to use to trace your design on your quilt.....You can also ubthread your machine and and draw the design out on paper and practice the design and then use a chalk powder like pounce and the paper that you perforated and place the design on your quilt ..... hope this helps some....
Red

All "free motion quilting" means is that you somehow disengage the feeddogs and guide the fabric by hand. Many FM quilters mark all their patterns, some work solely freehand and some, like me, do both depending on what pattern I'm using.

The following two pictures show the difference between marked feathers with freehand stippling (top) and unmarked meandering feathers (bottom.)

Annie

Thank you for your wonderful advice. I have played around this am with some samples trying full marking and simple dot guide points. I feel like I am branching out and don't expect perfection but don't wish to ruin the quilt in the process. Thanks for clearing up the definition of FMQ. I wasn't sure if marking was considered cheating.
Jayne

Hi Annie,

While you're here, if I could pls. ask abt FMQ. I have an older Singer machine w/out any special attachments or feet that I know of. So I haven't tried any FMQ on this (tho' I had taken a class in it at LQS, using brand new Bernina machines).

Here's my Q: w/out special attachments, is there a way to FMQ? Am wondering abt trying it after removing the presser foot from the machine? That seems to be what makes contact w/ the feed dogs to advance the fabrics. I guess I'll just have to try it! TIA

Pirate Girl: When you say "older" how old do you mean? Most Singers were regular side-clamping machines and feet are readily available for them. I have a girlfriend who FM quilts on a Singer made in the 1890s, using a modern foot.
If you could post a picture of the presser foot as it is attached to your machine, I can tell you whether or not you can get feet for them. Oh, the feet are CHEAP! Less than $10 in most cases. I have half a dozen different ones that I've been testing for a friend who specializes in parts and equipment for antique and vintage sewing machines.

Annie

I finished my butterflies and I am will start the binding tomorrow.
I appreciated the help everyone gave and decided to make a simple template to keep unifomity in the size of BF but rather then mark around and follow lines I scheduled dots at different points and then freehand in sort of dot to dot fashion. It worked. I realize there was room for much improvement but as a first try I am satisfied and doesn't look like it was too planned. Jayne

Sorry Annie, but I can't provide pix (no camera).

It's a younger machine than that: a Singer Model # 347, which copyright date on the manuals says 1967. It's a lovely machine which works really well. Mechanics told me it's one of the last machines w/ all metal interior parts & therefore I should never let this machine go.

No problem at all getting attachments for it. It appears to take low-shank feet. According to the Needlebar site, it's treadleable, too. 8^)

Annie

Hi Annie,

Your examples above are beautiful.

Thanks but what does that mean "low shank", what is the "Needlebar" site & how/where would I buy the feet pls?

Also, as to my orig Q, do you think it might work for me to FM w/out the presser foot?

Pirate Girl: Low shank refers to the bar that the presser foot attaches to, in the case of your 342, the shank is pretty close to the fabric, even when the foot is lifted, therefore it's a "low shank" machine and you need low shank feet for it.

While it's technically possible to FM quilt without a special foot, you must have some sort of foot to hold down the fabric or the stitch won't form correctly. If you take the foot off the machine all together, you will have a mess.

I get my feet from Cindy Peters in Lake City, MN. You can contact her at stitchesintime@earthlink.net. She's going to be out of the state at a sewing machine collector's event in IL until the middle of next week, so you might want to wait to contact her until then. When you do, tell her DamascusAnnie told you to get her most popular low-shank free-motion foot. The foot will cost less than $10 and will make life an awful lot easier for you.

Oh, the Needlebar is a site/forum for sewing machine researchers. More pictures of old sewing machines than any other three sites combined!

Annie

Hi Annie,

Mine is a 347, not sure if you meant that but had a typo saying 342 above.

Thanks very much for the info, & referral. I will save the info. to contact her & will mention your referral. Grateful for your help Annie.

Sorry to Nanajane (the original poster) for digressing her thread somewhat. Then again, perhaps others will find that info. above useful as well.

(PG) Karen

Karen: I double checked and I did ask about a 347 at the Vintage Singers forum. It was getting late and I just didn't proof-read my post to you very carefully! Let me know if there's anything else you need help with once you get started.

I don't know if you've gotten any reference materials, if not I recommend Harriet Hargrave's book "Heirloom Machine Quilting". I own a lot of machine quilting books and have read more and IMHO this is still the best.

Annie

I am trying to learn FMQ too and would love to have something to follow. But I really stopped in to say, WOW!!! Annie I think you are the best, I would love to be able to do that, You give me something to strive toward. It is remarkable how well you do that, mine is still ruining my quilts.

Thanks for the nice compliments and all I have to say is that when you've quilted for as many hours as I have, you'll be really good at it, too. Remember, this was my BUSINESS for six years and I did it all on a regular sewing machine--although an old one mounted in a treadle table.

When you quilt over 2 dozen queen-sized quilts a year at an average of 20 hours per quilt plus the little projects in between, that's a lot of quilting practice! I figure I've easily got more than 3000 hrs of machine quilting under my belt--that's the equivalent to working at a full-time job for a year and a half.

So, cut yourselves some slack and give yourselves time to learn. Use drawn patterns as necessary and be proud every time you finish a project on your own!

Annie

I am going to post my efforts on my FMQ even though I am intimadated by all the wonderful things others do. Becky was pleased with my Butterflys even though they are leave A LOT to be desired. I guess we all begin some where.