Sounds way too cheap for the work involved. You'll need a structural engineer to design the truss modifications as well as the beefing up of the floor joists and to certify that the foundation can accept the additional load. And you'll need a minimum head height to pass code. You'll need the HVAC redesigned. You'll need additional electrical run. You'll need to redesign the insulation and ventilation of your roof system.

Attic spaces often aren't finished because they're really not that simple to after market engineer as living spaces.

Hmmm, you are scaring me a little. We do have a structural engineer and a designer/architect working on the design and structural modifications. I know they are adding several beams to support the floor joists and running at least two beams down to the foundation.

I guess my concern should be less about the cost and more about making sure they are planning for everything to pass code. I guess one thing that may make it easier is that the rest of the 2nd floor is already finished the same way as this space will be in terms of ceiling height and roof (i.e. the last few feet of the ceiling is slanted...not sure what that is called).

This same contractor and architect did a $130k+ remodel on my in-laws place so I am kind of relying on them to know what they are doing. The structural engineer was added because of the truss modifications.

Thanks for the inputÂIÂve got a few questions I need to ask them now!!

Yes, sounds WAY too cheap for my region also.

We'd be looking at about $165 per square foot to do what you propose...

And barely meet code...

Wow! I guess the cost isn't a question at all.

So when you guys say it would cost way more, what drives a lot of the cost? Design, labor, materials? It may be super low because the costs are really just labor and materials. The design is more of a favor becaues the structural engineer and designer are good family friends. I guess that could make me worry a bit.

Also, the contractor that did the $130k remodel for my in-laws charges a pretty low hourly rate. He did a great job with their house so I am pretty confident with his quality of work.

I guess I just need to make sure no shortcuts are made to keep the cost so low.

Thanks for the input!!

Even if the design and structural plan were free, (and you're risking a LOT working with family/friends without an actual contract in place spelling out exact responsibilities and payments in place) the actual implementation of those plans will be a great deal more than $65 a square foot. Beams are not cheap, and to get the head height needed for code, you're probably going to have to do steel, which has tripled in price in the last couple of years. Steel is hard to deal with, and getting the beams into the location (attic) that you need them may require a crane to bring them in through whatever window access you have. The first floor has to be able to support the additinal weight of living space vs. storage space, and that may mean taking off the lower space's siding or drywall to reinforce the studs. That also leads to the foundation being only poured for a single story in the beginning and maybe needing reinforcing for second story living space. That will require excavation and additional concrete pours and on site supervision by the engineer who designs it. Don't forget that you will need to heat and cool that space. Your home's original heating and cooling is sized to the space of the original home and you're not going to just be able to add on a duct and call it done. The entire system may need to be replaced, or a second complete system added. You'll have to figure out the ductwork runs and where you can place them. YOu'll have to add additional electrical outlets. If your panel isn't already 200 amps with plenty of open slots with which to add, you may have to upgrade your panel. You'll have to figure out how to insulate an awkward space with minimal room for insulation. Spray inulation would be the best, but it's the most expensive. THe roof ventilation either needs to be reconfigured or design eliminated by a professional familiar with closed system insulation roofs. Doing otherwise will lead to premature shingle failure for your home. If you're ever thinking of adding a bathroom space up there, the rough plumbing should be designed and implemented now. Retrofitting will be a lot more expensive. Don't forget permits and inspection fees.

There's a LOT more too it than just slapping up drywall and moving in.

Live Wire - thanks for all the info, this will give me a lot to think about and talk to the contractor about. However, let me clarify a few things about my house that may change things.

My house is two stories already...1,400 on the 1st floor and 500 on the second. The space we are finishing will share two walls with already finished space on the 2nd floor so "attic" may have been a bad word to discribe the space. I am adding 200 sqft to the existing 500 so I'm thinking the foundation would be able to handle the increas.

Also, the new room will just be an extenstion of another existing room. I am just finishing the empty space behind the wall. Also, the rest of the house already has what you call a closed system insulation roof (i.e. the ceiling is only a few feet from the actual roof). We will just finishing this space with the same type of insulation as the rest of the house. I think this may simplify the project a bit. However, you make great points about the beams and the studs going down to the foundation as well as the electrical considerations. I will have to ask about this.

I would not trust truss modifications by anyone except the original company that designed and assembled the trusses.
The grades of wood used in the various truss components are NOT readily apparent, and this has a huge impact on attempting to redesign the truss.

i would take off the entire roof and truss structure and replace it with a stick framed roof, or new trusses if there is any cost savings.

Your price appears low.

I feel as a General Contractor in Florida. That is way low.
We are slow but not desperate. I would be in the range of $100 - $150 a sq. Get ready for change orders.

Here is a link that might be useful: KB Remodeling And Construction LLC

kbuild - thanks for the feedback. I definately need to sit down with the contractor to make sure everything is included and covered (I believe it is) just to make sure there are no suprises.

What is your typical hourly rate that contributes to the cost per sqft? One thing I konw is this contractor charges a really low hourly rate ($35/hr I think) but did great work and was really reliable on my in-laws big re-model.