diy--ikea wood counter--which poly coat?

12 years ago

So FINALLY, the Beech 73 x 39 arrived at the Seattle/Renton IKEA. We drove like mad people to get it..whew..3 left.

We are thinking of lightly sanding (to remove any treatment they put on there) and using a polyvinyl coating. I am leaning towards a semi-gloss as I am not fond of ultra shiny stuff. Will I be sorry? I think the Beech is dark enough that I don't need to stain. Will I be sorry?

If you did polyvinyl on yours, do you have a brand you can recommend??

We will only have the induction cooktop on it and I will have a cutting board to chop so no actual work on the countertop.

Any ramblings, thoughts, suggestions are appreciated.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (7)

quirkykitchen
12 years ago
Two of my neighbors installed ikea butcher block counters last year. Both applied several coats of tung oil to protect it. I applied tung oil to an antique oak counter. It's not too much trouble to apply, although it takes several days because of the number of coats. It looks great. No direct food prep. I think it will be necessary to re-apply one coat yearly but I don't think that's too much trouble.

Congrats on the new countertop and good luck, whatever you decide as to the finish.
pawa
12 years ago
I used Epiphanes marine varnish. This is a spar varnish, which is different from polyurethane. The properties of spar varnish are that it is more waterproof and more elastic than polyurethane, but scratches easier. Spar varnish is tung-oil based. Spar varnish lends an amber tone so there is no need to stain.

Many on this board will suggest Waterlox. Waterlox is essentially a spar varnish that has been diluted about 50% with mineral spirits, and possibly a little extra tung oil added in. The addition of mineral spirits makes it lay out nicely (ie: you don't see brush strokes). But you can achieve the same thing by diluting any varnish (polyurethane or spar) with mineral spirits. Waterlox is very expensive and depending on where you live, you might have to pay for shipping. So I would advise against Waterlox because of the rip-off factor.

Epifanes is the best marine varnish there is. Don't get the spar at Home Depot or a home centre. It's not as good. I think it has less solids or something. After 7 coats of Epifanes, the varnish looks like GLASS it is insane. I am toning down the gloss down by adding "rub effect" over top. It almost seems a shame to do so given the truly remarkable perfect wet gloss, but it's not the look I'm after...Anyway, the Rub Effect stuff gives it a nice satin sheen. The rub effect stuff is actually just a polyurethane.

Do a google search for "Bob Flexner" and "Waterlox" to get the scoop on Waterlox. I think some people are deceived into thinking it's some sort of tung oil miracle concoction, which it is not.
Related Discussions
My New Table is Done, and I'm Happy!
Q
Comments (48)
Cooperbaily, We bought the chairs in Amish country. we just made the small chairs, I stained the small chairs to match the big chairs. pbisjar, I really don't pay much attention to what's in and what's not! Hey, I still have border paper in my kitchen! You need to go with what you like, everything eventually comes back anyhow. flyleft, always use a virgin cloth with each application, no matter how careful you are with the cloth it will become contaminated with something, dust, pet hair etc...Same thing for the waterlox, pour out into a container just the small amount you think you'll need for the job (I mean for the one coat-at a time). Use the gloss Waterlox, and you can control the amount of shine you desire by sanding with 0000 steel wool or very fine sandpaper. Regarding major renovations, we have been through many! You have tempted me to do a thread on our bump out window project...Our marriage survived this remodel (another DIY project)with flying colors... It started on July 2 2004, and was finished just before Gobble, Gobble time! I couldn't believe how much work it was and how entailed it was. We did this project, without even a minor handbag scuffle! However, be prepared to see the remodel from hell! Both indoors and outdoors was a disaster. Our kitchen and bathroom re-model was a dream compaired to the window job. levelyn, I'm sure your table will be gorgeous! Thank you lafonda and everyone else. :)
...See More
Oil & Wax Finish: need help on the wax part!
Q
Comments (16)
Hi Kathrine. It seems like you are well on your way to a solution already, but I would like to clear some of the fog. First, I would like to address oil and wax finishes. Although they do produce a decent finish, they take forever to cure, they will need to be renewed eventually, and they offer little to no protection (when compared to a film finish). In a kitchen, durability is usually the big concern and pure tung oil simply doesnt have a place there. Now if you have a nice antique hall table that you dont mind babying, tung oil and wax could be a good choice. But with the amazing array of beautiful finish options available today, its hard to believe tung oil (and boiled linseed oil), still find their way into our homes. That being said, I am glad you went with the Waterlox. Despite the incorrect information Minwax gave you, Waterlox is not all that different from a wiping polyurethane. Waterlox actually contains little to no tung oil at all. It does, however, contain a resin that is derived from oil and is a close relative to polyurethane. Many woodworkers like this particular resin better because it is less "plastic-looking" than standard polyurethane. So what you have actually done is exactly what I would have recommended: you top-coated your tung oiled surface with a wiping varnish. This varnish will give your cabinets the protection they need from oil, grease, heat, water, and cleaning agents. A level of protection that tung oil cannot provide. And one note to the folks who were discussing "food-safe" finishes. Nearly all film finishes are food safe once cured. If you are a bit skeptical, there are FDA-approved varnishes available (usually labelled salad bowl finish), that will offer much more protection and durability than oil and wax. I apologize for the blitz of information. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask away. Marc
...See More
Wood countertop....Dishwasher Moisture Barrier??
Q
Comments (7)
I just installed two built-in dishwashers with panel fronts that vent out the top. Kitchenaid included a tin foil like strip about 6" wide by 2' long with self adhesive on the back with each one to use as the moisture barrier under the counter. They didn't specify which type of counter, just to use it on all counters. In my opinon, with a wood countertop you can never do too much to protect it from moisture. Better safe than sorry, I think.
...See More
Did Your White Cabinets Turn Yellow?
Q
Comments (26)
I have 2 designs I am going to post--#1 is an L shaped kitchen, #2 is with a peninsula. There are pros and cons to each--#1 is more open and creates the "great room" with the kichen and living room essentially being one big room (see my first post for photos of the current space). With this design I would have a table and chairs for eating, which is very comfortable and conducive to talking because you can see each other. Messy kitchen can be very obvious to those in living room. #2 Helps define the kitchen and living room as two separate spaces. Peninsula offers more prep space and a bit more storeage. Has the peninsula for eating and this would be in lieu of a dining table and chairs. There just isn't enough space for both, however I do have a big round table on my large lanai (patio) and since this is Maui, most times you can eat outside. Peninsulas are not as comfortable to many people for sitting at in comparison to a table/chairs. Conversations are more challenging since people typically sit in a row and can't see each other. Not so good for a more formal dinner. Stools can be upholstered with seats that match the sofa or chair, add some green granite to the counter and can tie the two spaces together. What are your thoughts regarding the two designs and which would you prefer? Design #1 I should add that the refrigerator will go in the spot where the utility cart is in the corner--you'll need to see the first photo in my earlier post with the photos of my condo to see where that is. It's also in the same place that the remodeled white kitchen has it that's also in my earlier post. Design #2 Thanks for looking!
...See More
rhome410
12 years ago
Hi, Wallycat!

Well, all I can say is I've found Waterlox easy to apply and very durable and waterproof...and not super shiny like a marine or other finish meant to stand up to weather and, particularly, sun. It's easy to refresh, as you aren't required to sand to do another coat, or you don't have to go over a whole surface. I found ours at Woodcraft in the Georgetown area of Seattle... at Corson and Michigan Streets not too far from the granite places, if you've been around there at all.

Although, in your area, a marine finish should be easy to find, maybe ask at the wooden boat (NW Maritime) center.
wallycat
Original Author
12 years ago
Thank you!
Rhome,yes, we walk to through the Chandlery almost weekly and lots of stuff there. Also, there is a wooden boat school, so I can go ask there!
Thanks everyone.
SparklingWater
12 years ago
Just wish to say I'm excited about your wood countertop Ikea purchase. I am aware of them and look forward to hearing how you enjoy them down the road.

I love the warmth of wood countertops.
jessicaml
12 years ago
I just Waterloxed my Ikea butcherblock last month and it was both easy and looks great.

I could have bought a quart of Waterlox from a wood working specialty store but chose to order a gallon. With shipping, I think it came to $100. If it lives up to the hype (so far, so good), it will be worth it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox Penetrating Tung Oil Finish
Lorenza5064
10 years ago
Any knowledge/opinion re Watco "Butcher Block Oil and Finish"? I am considering bamboo BB tops for my kitchen and wondering about the optimal finish for performance and ease of maintenance. . Any advice?

diy--ikea wood counter--which poly coat?

Comments (7)

quirkykitchen

pawa

Related Discussions

rhome410

wallycat
Original Author

SparklingWater

jessicaml

Lorenza5064

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

diy--ikea wood counter--which poly coat?

Comments (7)

quirkykitchen

pawa

Related Discussions

rhome410

wallycatOriginal Author

SparklingWater

jessicaml

Lorenza5064

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

wallycat
Original Author