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removing rust and paint from the cast-iron standpipe

16 years ago

I'm still struggling w/ these stupid steam-heat standpipes in my 1921 apt. bldg.

(PLS NOTE: I *own* my apartment, it is a co-op, and I can do almost anything I want to it; also note, I'm trying to get it ready to sell).

The one in the bathroom has some rust that's interfering w/ the paint's bond, and I need to remove it. In that room, anyway, lead paint is no longer an issue (all the paint peeled off down to the metal, pretty much).

What sort of sandpaper do I use? For metal, obviously; what grade? Do I need to use progressively finer grades?

Should I do it by hand, instead of w/ a power sander? (I'm not very patient, hence a certain longing to bring in the belt sander)

Any tips for sanding the outside of a 3.5" pipe? (like I said, I'm lazy, and I can just imagine how tedious it will be to do it by hand, and to hold onto it and apply all the pressure w/ just my hand.)

How horrible or dangerous is the residue going to be?

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Comments (4)

brickeyee
16 years ago
You could try a conversion conversion coating instead of sanding.
It is painted on and chemically reacts to turn the rust into a black compound that accepts paint. The only rust you need to remove is loose rust to use it, and a metal brush will do that job quickly. It actually works best on a uniformly rusted surface.
Many auto painting places have it.
talley_sue_nyc
Original Author
16 years ago
I think I did apply a conversion coating--it sounds like what the paint-store guy told us to get. But there's black crumbly stuff left, and of course the paint flakes right off. It's that stuff I need to remove, and I need to be sure it's ALL off.

Someone else did the actual work last time, and I don't know if he LEFT the converted rust on the surface, or if moisture got underneath and created more crumbly rust.

A metal brush--that's a great idea--probably I'll start w/ that.
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brickeyee
16 years ago
Sounds more like a paint product than conversion coating.
Conversion coatings stick as tight as the rust.
They also form a barrier that stops further rusting very well.

Conversion coating only work on rust.
If the rust is loose or flaking it needs to be removed, but tight surface rust will be even tighter after the coating.
After the coating finishes curing you apply a metal type primer, than paint. The coating forms a good paint base, but a coat of lighter colored primer works well if you want a lighter paint.
Oil based primers are better for this use.
talley_sue_nyc
Original Author
16 years ago
Hmmm. thanks for all the info.

I'll have to investigate conversion coatings further.

I have some sort of thick coating-type stuff on a radiator in the bathroom that someone else put on; it's thicker than a paint would be, and it's sort of rubbery or plasticy looking. It's peeling in a spot or two, and it has yellowed; we never painted over it, I guess we thought we shouldn't. I wonder what it is--I didn't really get any details from my contractor/handyman.

If I've got a pipe w/ an area that's got this black flaking, and an area where the paint really stuck well, should I avoid a conversion coating? Or will it stick well enough to the paint that I can tackle the whole pipe without having to remove all the paint?

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