Can you help me (and perhaps others) add some steps to the 'hood size guidelines' to think through hood size for the Capital Culinarian 36" rangetop, or one of the other 'monster' home rangetops (e.g., Bluestar, Viking, Wolf,...) The usual rule of thumb I've seen is: 100 CFM / 1,000 BTU rangetop Width same as rangetop, preferably 6" wider (e.g., (36", 42" better) Depth same as rangetop, preferably 3" deeper (e.g., 24", 27" better) The problem is that it is extremely unlikely we'll run the Capital at its full 138K BTU (or any of its monster brethren). Does the following make sense, or can those knowledgeable improve on it? At top actual use, we'll be using: 1 Burner wok = 23K BTU 1 Burner soup/ water boil = 23K BTU, but limited need for venting, call it 10K 4 Burners Realistic Max Average = 10K BTU (e.g., 1* 15K averages w/ 1 simmer) Total Effective = 73K BTU, and thus need 730 CFM Hood Suppose we do the 'best practice' of turning the hood on a couple minutes prior to any 'high-vent need cooking' such as wok cooking. If the range top is against a back wall, would we then be comfortable with the 730 CFM fan in a 36x24" hood? If the range top is in an island, would we then be comfortable with the 730 CFM fan in a 42x 27" hood, as long as we limit any activities that would cause strong drafts in the kitchen during wok cooking (e.g., opening the door from kitchen to patio.) In our case, we're looking at 6 burners, no grill or other top. We look forward to your help.

Add up all the purchases (the cash out of your pocket that you paid to buy shares), along with any dollar amounts reinvested, and don't forget any amount that you had to pay for an investment fee (for example if a percentage of your initial investment went to pay a broker or a "load" rather than actually buy shares). This is your total cost basis. Divide this amount by the total number of shares that you now own. The resulting figure is your average cost per share. You will then subtract the average cost/share $ amount from the price per share that you sell for, and that will be your capital gain (or loss) per share. Times number of shares sold is the total gain or loss. If you include all your shares (both long and short term) in this calculation, that is the single category method. You will have the same cost basis for all shares, although the short term and long term shares will be taxed at separate rates. However, in certain circumstances you may want to go to the trouble of separating your long term and short term shares into separate sales and calculate the cost basis of each group separately. Say, if by separating the two groups, and calculating an average cost basis for each group, you would be selling one of the groups at a loss or at a significantly smaller gain and so reducing the total amount of tax owed. This would take some time to figure out but still is not that hard.

I think the suggestion to seek expert tax advice is sound, but I wanted to add something. On the strength of what you have reported here it would seem that you might be looking at nearly 109K of capital gains on the sale, less the cost of doing the subdivision which would include municipal fees, surveys, engineering studies, legal costs and anything connected with getting the land subdivided. However, I don't think it's as simple as that. When you paid 600K for the 85 acres it was a bulk purchase and it seems unlikely that all 85 acres were worth the same amount per acre. On a piece of property as large as that, there is bound to be land that is worth less per are (and therefore has a lower fair market value) because it was farther off the road, or had other development constraints. For that reason, the simple way of determining the basis value of each of the three subdivided acres: $600K divided by 85 (acres) times three, would not be accurate, and probably is misleadingly low. It may be that the land you subdivided was worth more per acre, even before it was subdivided. I suggest that you consider having the property examined by a qualified appraiser (not just a RE agent, unless he or she is also dual qualified as a certified appraiser) to help you determine what the true basis of the land you subdivided. To give a hypothetical example of what I mean: perhaps the three acres you sold were the only "view" lot, or had the only waterfront or access, or had some other very desirable feature of the overall tract. The remaining 82 may still have a decent spot for your new home but the rest may be overlooking the county dump and swamp land to boot. That's why each acre, or lot, needs to be looked at on its own merits, not just valued as if it was all equal. The subdivision almost certainly removed more than 3/85ths of the total value of the tract. A competent appraiser should be able to provide you with sufficient documentation for you to establish a correct basis, which will most likely increase the basis, and therefore reduce your capital gains tax liablity. But keep in mind what you reduce now will affect your basis when you eventually sell your house. However since presumably the new house will be your qualified residence, a large chunk of your potential capital gains will protected (assuming no change in tax code) at that point. HTH, Molly~

YES, I had this problem and I read that there is some kind of "fat" used in liquid soap, so I switched to powdered soap, and I put it in a bowl first and mix it up with really HOT water to make sure it dissolves completely because it just stayed in a clump if I put it in the little drawer. I have been using Tide with Downey (powder) and I through in one of those "tablets" (oxy-clean power paks) too and it took care of the bad smell. When I did some research, people referred to it as a "dirty sock" smell, and that describes it ! I don't even buy the one that says "HD" anymore, I just use less and it is working good for me, and I leave the door open when its not in use, too.