Here's s start: It is in the "Windsor" pattern, probably made by Reading. You'll need a lot of luck to find the lock it goes to, and a lot of skill to re-attach it. Casey

We have a rim lock on one of our exterior doors, supplemented by a deadbolt. We have an old house, and there was what I guess was the original rim lock there when we bought the house, but it had no keeper. To replace it, I got one of the more ornate rim locks with keeper from HOAH. What I discovered was that the door frame wasn't on the same plane as the door, so I had to affix a piece of wood to bring the keeper in line with the latch. Also, the doorframe didn't seem to have enough wood behind it where the keeper needed to go, so the screws holding the keeper kept coming loose. I solved this by affixing the aforementioned piece of wood further way from the edge of the doorframe. So this is a long way of saying that you would need to let your contractor know that the doorframe needs to be able to accomodate the keeper. Also, if you live in a cold climate, you'll want to get draft covers for your keyholes. Here is a link that might be useful: Draft cover

I've got a 1905 home and have been adding new mortise locksets on the new interior doors - I know the hunt to find the right hardware. There are two companies that make high quality interior mortise locksets that I've found - Nostalgic Warehouse is one and the other is Emtek. Both brands are carried at House of Antique Harware online. Rejuvention (http://www.rejuvenation.com/) also sells one of the brands - I believe the NostalgicWarehouse ones - and you can customize for interior privacy, dummy, etc and choose finish, knob, locking type (latch, key) backplate. But the price reflects that ($150-ish per set). Some other sites carry the Nostalgic Warehouse hardware and you should search for that online once you figure out what backplate style you need at a cheaper price. For bathrooms, I prefer the latch type without the keyhole, it's easier than inserting a skeleton key. In the end -- $100+ for each set was cost prohibitive for me since I'm doing a complete remodel and an addition so continued searching and lucked out finding the "Prime Line" series at Homedepot.com at around $30 a set. Yes, there is a difference in quality, but it's what I could afford at the moment so it's worked ok so far. They are all skeleton keys and I've got the keys hanging on the knobs with ribbon like others have mentioned. Here's a picture of my new doors and the Prime Line set with my Dad testing it after he mortised it out. This post was edited by kjo_tx on Thu, Jul 11, 13 at 10:53

handymac, you're right about the link. Here is a better one to show the door (warning, pdf again). I'm getting the F20 flavor shown on page 8. To answer your question about the door and the jamb, good point. The jamb appears to be a 2 x 6 set on end, so, pretty solid there. The door is solid wood as well; not as thick as I'd like (only 1 3/4"). I live in a neighborhood that's had only one break-in in 20 years, but still, I want this thing to perform. And times are a-changing. I'd give the door a B for security. Fortunately we have a locking porch door, so an intruder would have to kick in two doors; at least we'd have time to react. Frankly, the only thing worth stealing in this house would be the door set we're buying :-). I'm not a jewelry or electronics kind of person. We get our TV's off the curb--seriously. You'd be amazed how many functional tv's get put out in the trash. But I digress... To the others, thanks for your honest and detailed opinions. It sounds like the main concern in this situation is for the integrity of the door where the mortise cavity is made. I agree, one wrong force and the door is cooked! In this case, the door is already mortised out, and it appears that the new lockset wants a slightly smaller cavity than what we've got. My husband wants to hire a pro too, because he feels they'll do a good job shimming out the cavity and getting a tight, even fit. He thinks that movement and vibration will stress the door and the lock, hurting the longevity of both. I think I can at least try to dry fit the shims and the lock set, and if I can't get a good fit, then call the pros in, nothing lost. Many thanks to contributors, I was wondering what in this situation might come out and bite me from behind, and the consensus of concern around the door leads me to think that the biggest boogeyman has been flushed out. I will let you all know how it goes, in case any other suprises come up. I'm already thinking, when I'm fiddling with this in the 20 degree weather, I'll be wishing my door broke in the summertime! sierraeast, I smiled at what you said: if I can afford to shell out for a lockset like this, I should be able to afford to hire a pro for the install. You're right; in any undertaking, first begin by counting the cost, including installation! But I'm sure I'm not the first g'wer on the home forums who has tried to do the most to their house for the least amount of money. I think the beauty of these forums is just how much value is added by the discussions. I have gained so much, and as I get more experience from working with my house, I hope to give back to the community. I wonder, if you took the dollar value of improved designs, longer-lasting repairs because they were done better, and bargains found through this community (yes I'm getting a ticor sink on ebay), how many millions of dollars of value have been created through exchanges on these forums? Pretty cool! Here is a link...