advice for my 1970's family room in all its paneled glory
17 years ago
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help me transform my 1970s-era (but new to me!) kitchen
Comments (27)Hi Roulie, I was looking at the beautiful blue kitchens in your thread about painting your cabs, and went looking for this thread for more pictures and info about your kitchen. (I would try the SW Naval from Deb's island on one of your trial boards, it just rocks!) I have an opinion about the hole in your counter. I love the idea of using stainless, and if the Jenn-aire that was removed is the griddle next to the big Garland, I would suggest that you have someone come and fabricate a stainless steel cover that simply butts up to the range and covers the whole counter top surface, front overhang and all, for the length of counter top hole in the wood. That will give you a bulletproof landing spot for messy cooking. YOU may not need it, but you have at least one young person, and a messy spill on your butcher block with a stainless steel insert in the hole in the wood will be a lot harder to clean up than on a seamless sheet of steel. Have the fabricator match the finish as much as possible to that of the Garland, and it may not seem so much like another added texture in the room. It also occurred to me, looking at the photo, that there does not seem to be a range hood. Is that a problem for you, or do you not put a lot of grease into the air when you cook? A metal fabricator could fashion one to fit below that cabinet, and you could put the guts in the cab. Just something to think about if you have someone out to see about the hole in the counter. I went looking for your thread about your butcher block counter refinishing. The problem with wood near your sink area made me think of old porcelain 1920s to 1930s sinks as a solution. In my first search result I saw the one linked below, and it fit the one in my mind's eye perfectly. Something like this will better protect that beautiful refinished counter of yours. It prevents any more deterioration where the wood meets the back splash, as well, and does not go very far up the wall. Check out the link below. I think I am interested in your project because it reminds me of my own. I refinished a used bead board kitchen almost three years ago.I have an island top that is 25 years old sitting in my garage that is very similar to your butcher block. I did not use it when I bought it with my Green Demolition kitchen. I refinished my beaded-board oak cabinets from GD by hand sanding and re-staining them with a creamy oil-based stain that my local Sherwin Williams mixed up for me. I could not get a "pickled" stain in water-base. My routed-out lines were far closer together than yours, but you have a LOT of cabs to do, too. If I had to do it again, I think I might paint. I do not have tons of wood grain around like you do, and really like the grain peeking through, so staining was a good choice for me at the time. My problem was in getting the stain to stick to end grain. All my rounded edges exposed me to end grain, but I did not realize that this was my problem at the time. Stain did not stick well on the perimeter of all of my 34 doors and 20 drawers, and I have a rubbed-through look in places. I also have a few pieces that are a different color. Don't know if it was a stirring problem, a real color difference in the first stain can, or what. By the time I was done, I just did not want to know! Part of my problem is that I have asthma and had to wear terrible face masks to keep the VOCs out of my lungs. I had to work outside because of the fumes, too. In the steamy heat of the summer of 2010, I had little patience for problems and just let the color differences get by me. I just wanted it DONE. If you can paint with latex, it is a lot less bother and mess than what I went through! Oil-based stains are still the most common with wood. Here is a picture of my doors before I refinished them. If you want to see my kitchen (minus the missing cab door that we found in the carpenter's shop 6 months after I finished staining everything else), you can go to my website and see it at www.pbase.com/nancyb/image/127230055 Here is Here is a link that might be useful:...See MoreI need help renovating this 1970's living room!
Comments (28)I agree that the ceilings are beautiful, unique, and cozy. You could really incorporate them into a very interesting modern farmhouse look. However, A. I really feel for your husband who is 6 feet tall, and B. I think the beams contribute to the congested feeling of this space. The beams, the columns, the trim, the multiple levels of tray ceilings, and lighting fixtures trapped between the lanes of beams make this space feel jumbled and confined. There are many things you can do to make this space feel more streamlined, open, and airy without removing columns. (Though I would still explore what is inside those columns and why they were added to this house. It looks like the recessed and tray ceilings were there before the columns because the columns so strangely protrude out into the recessed areas. 1. Remove the beams Check to be sure they are not structural. Yes, they are beautiful, but they really confine the space and narrow the lighting. They would be great in another house but not in this one. If you must keep them, paint them the same color as the ceiling and walls to help them disappear. Again, they are beautiful, but not in a room with a low ceiling, 4 brick columns and a tall guy. 2. Consider recessed lighting. These round light fixtures are awkward to look at and bring the height of the ceiling down when you want it to feel more vast and open. 3. Remove and reduce as much ceiling trim as possible. There is way too much trim happening here: odd trim spanning opening to dining room. The trim at column tops are over the top, and trim around the columns at the front door overlaps oddly with the tray ceiling. There may be some areas where trim cannot be moved. In those areas reduce it's appearance: Replace with a trim that has fewer ridges, a lower profile that protrudes less from the wall, and paint it the same white as the walls and ceiling. 4. Consider switching layout How do you all spend your time together? Do you eat at the table a lot or more so at a counter? When you eat at the table is it dark out? Do you spend time together in a formal living room setting? Do you need an area to play with toys? Does much TV watching happen nearby when someone is in the kitchen? I don't understand the layout here or your usage needs, but for the sake of your husband's height and potentially maximizing light, can you make the current dining room be more of a living room / family room space and put the dining room where the current sofas are? If the dining room with all of those open windows is not being heavily utilized during daytime hours, then you are not utilizing the sunniest part of this first floor....See More1970s major renovation: how to budget?
Comments (16)I will preface this by saying I know nothing about the real estate market in Apex, NC, but off the top of my head, a 2,400 sq ft house that only has 3 bedrooms and 2 baths has a lot of wasted space somewhere. Several years ago, my mom, a widow at the time, bought a major fixer upper. It was an all brick house in an up-and-coming part of the city (major US city) and the only thing it had going for it was its location (which is obviously something you cannot change). We all thought she was completely nuts, but for whatever reason she fell in love with the house. She didn't move any walls or add any additional square footage but basically tore nearly everything down to the studs. Everywhere she turned, it was one problem after the next. She budgeted around $75K for all the wanted to do (including finishing the basement) and in the end (about 2 years later) her total came closer to $150K. Yes, almost double her original budget. Since she worked full time, she hired contractors to do a lot of the work, but she did a lot herself, like painting and tiling. We referred to the house as the money pit. She knew there was likely asbestos (there was, everywhere) but she did not anticipate all the plumbing and electrical needing upgrading. Or the mold issue in the basement. Or the broken sewer pipe in front of the house. I just shook my head every time she'd complain about another issue the contractors found. She wound up selling a few years later. She could only list her house for around $50-60K more than what she paid for it because that's what the market dictated, even though everything was new. In the end she lost nearly $100K. Even though everyone and their mother warned her at the time, she didn't listen and regrets having put that time and money into such a project. My husband and I recently finished our basement. A small remodel based on some of the projects I read on this site. But I would never do it again. We wound up spending maybe $15K more than I expected (because I didn't account for some of the things we needed to do before actually finishing the basement, like a new sump pump and having the walls sealed). We lived here during the finishing and because the weather is brutally cold, most of the stuff that was originally downstairs is still in the garage and will be dealt with this spring. I'm tired of my house being in disarray. I just want my life back to "normal". My husband is thrilled with the results; I would have rather moved (and tried to convince him to before we started this project, but I was obviously unsuccessful). Bottom line is these kind of major remodels take a lot more time (ours took a month longer) and much more money than you think. Unexpected problems that come up are par for the course. And then there's the problem of overbuilding/over improving for your area. My mom was definitely a victim of that and why she could only list her house for what she did. I'd rather buy a house that had everything I wanted in a heartbeat. I wouldn't even give a fixer upper a second look....See MoreWhat did we get into? 1970's chalet/cabin with lots of potential
Comments (25)Niiiice! Are the deck and supports in good condition? I would put my money there.... You need a wood shed ASAP to run the woodstove. Place an order for kiln-dried wood. Storing wood under the back deck will be super inconvenient when it's 20 below. Plus, snow melt will drip through the boards of the deck and ice the logs together (been there, done that). The shed should be nearer the front door. Sometime this summer collect blow-down twigs on your property. Garbage cans are great for storing these. Will you have auxiliary heat to keep the pipes from freezing? Otherwise, you're not going to be visiting on winter weekends, 'cos you're going to have to drain the pipes for winter. No concrete for a porch. It will crack in no time. Use wood. Try Trex for the steps, and make them extra wide so you can easily schlepp stuff like firewood into the house. You can use crusher for your front pathway; it does well in freeze/thaw cycles and is cheap to replace. Consider having a more substantial entrance, like a big vestibule or enclosed porch (a very New England thing). There will be muddy boots, wet jackets, skis, fishing rods, waders, hats, snow, wet, mud, everywhere. These get stashed BEFORE people go into the house front door in some kind of fore-room. Slippers get put on. You need a bench or chair there. Extensive doormats and drip spaces. Yep, have a mouse treatment of some kind for the house. Have a way to store food so mice can't get it. At least carpet is warm underfoot. Maybe the right idea would be to have some comfy rugs. The knotty pine is fab. Even minor changes to it would lower the property value, especially whitewash, scraping, paint... If there's a way to take down a tree or two to add more interior light and/or open the lake view, I think that would be smart. I don't think that house has been in the woods very long, so it's not like you'd be taking down historic trees. I disagree that the woodstove should be in a corner or to the side. It's essential for heating the home: it should be central so warmth reaches everywhere. If you have kids or pets, you MUST put a metal barrier around the woodstove for safety reasons. This can have a gate so an adult can access the front of the stove to load wood. Do you have a security system of some kind? Might be a good idea for a seasonal place that's that nice....See MoreRelated Professionals
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