Overages!! Overages!!
Linda Ross
16 years ago
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fandlil
16 years agoron6519
16 years agoRelated Discussions
overage size range? What size hood to fit over (the average) range?
Comments (8)The OP wrote: "So...I’d love the size of a larger range and a larger hood just for “style”..." Few want a larger hood for style; most resist having a larger hood even though it increases effectiveness at the cost of more required air flow rate and potentially a deliberate means of supplying make-up air. Cooking plumes expand as they rise, hence the hood capture aperture has to be larger than the area occupied by whatever pans might be used on the cooking surface. Otherwise, the effluent partially spreads into the kitchen allowing grease and moisture to settle on surfaces, and odor to spread and linger. A six-inch wider hood helps achieve this. A large enough front-to-back dimension is also needed. Assume the plumes expand at an angle of about 10 degrees from the vertical. The hot cooking plumes will have an upward velocity that depends on cooking surface temperatures and presence or not of gas combustion products. When these plumes (to the extent that they are captured by a large enough hood) reach the hood filter, they will bounce off due to conservation of momentum unless the air velocity induced at the filter by the hood blower is high enough. Commercial and residential practice suggest a value of 90 ft/min at the hood entry aperture (not the filter) is sufficient to retain the effluent and achieve containment. 90 ft/min is equivalent to 90 CFM per square foot of hood entry aperture. Use of induction cooking without any searing or wokking or hot frying may allow a lower value, but not below 60 ft/min. Hood blowers can only meet their specified zero pressure loss flow rate when hanging in free air. All other configurations have pressure loss (air flow resistance) as a function of flow rate, and thus when installed each blower flows less than its rated value. Buying a blower rated around 1.5 times that needed for containment (see above) should overcome the likely pressure losses, assuming there is a make-up air path suitable for the flow rate....See MoreLawn layout and overage?
Comments (1)The overall curving lawn shape doesn't seem to recognize the large tree and make any attempt to enhance it. I would try to give a little more distinction to the shape by altering the outside edge. If it turns out you later don't like the midway corners, they would be easy enough to change then. And yes, like tile, you'd need to estimate a percentage over the actual square feet needed. (Just in case, don't try to lay sod in a curve. Lay it square and cut the curve.)...See MorePermit overages?
Comments (11)I'm sure its very common. Permits (including impact fees and connection fees) can vary widely and are in constant revision. In my region (Greater Sacramento CA) These fees are used to provide capital to every agency creative enough to work a calculator. Some fees are based on cost, while others are based on who is collecting the highest amount nearby. My current projects have had total fees ranging from about $50K to $75K. One in permitting stage will actually receive some offsetting credits for a teardown. I've seen projects cancelled for impact fees over $100K and tract builders pull out of municipalities due to onerous costs. It takes me a few days to get updated costs for the 30 some line items contained in a permit. That assumes most can be provided by the building department, but sadly they often cannot. Outside agencies change rates on different schedules, often according to new requirements rather than inflation. Some fees will stay flat, others might double. There may be new fees by agencies we are unaware of. Permitting agencies are getting better at coordinating and informing, but nobody wants to take responsibility for a near accurate total. Typically is "contact ____ and pay fees for clearance" My strategy is to gather all, be conservative and hopefully come in under. GOOD LUCK!...See MoreTrying to avoid builder overages
Comments (17)How much do you owe this builder now? You could probably buy out the plans, then find a new builder who you like or one that is a little more transparent to you. I just built a home, (no builder) I finished last September, it went well but took a little longer than I expected, 12 months. I think I could have saved a little time but we did the finish labor, hung the cabinets and laid the vinyl flooring. I probably wouldn’t do any of the labor again, I would sub it all out. I found most of my subs on the job sites, I would check out large nice homes under construction and speak to the subs, I got my excavator, foundation, framer, drywaller, stucco, brick, electrician, roofer, flatwork cement, tile work and insulation from job sites. I had 2-3 bids on each part of the process, the only thing I didn’t bid out was the plumbing, I used a friend. I even bid out the lumber package to multiple suppliers. Windows, flooring, light fixtures, and appliances my wife and daughter chose, again we got bids and shopped sales also. Acting as the general on your home is not a full time job but it will require that you put some effort into the project, you must manage the timeline and assume there will be changes in the schedule. The city building department will help to keep you safe, that’s one of the reasons for their inspections. As an owner builder you will probably get a higher quality home for less cost,...See MoreUser
16 years agorandymeyer
16 years agoMongoCT
16 years agoron6519
16 years ago
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Linda RossOriginal Author