And. Is it not possible that perfectly level and plumb cabs can have the install screwed up anyway? I'm still not fully in the camp that these guys didn't mess up the install and it isn't the cabs (DH) issue OR that a little bit of appropriate shimming under the counter BEFORE they stuck the backsplash to the wall might have mitigated any cab level issue. They never checked the level of anything that we remember and if they did there was no mention about a problem to us. Do counter installers not check for level before they install or do they just go forward assuming everything is level? The thing that really sticks in my craw about the installers abilities/ethics is how they left the counter to the right of the sink unsupported for 3 feet and it's just suspended in air over the sink flange with a glob of caulk to close the gap, no shims at all anywhere even. If they are willing to do that there knowing it is wrong what else did they do just to get the job done? I mean you can't have 3 feet of solid surface counter cantilevered over nothing, right? Doesn't that void warranty or lend itself to breaking or whatnot? I guess I have a lot more faith in DH's abilities (him having done a wonderful job on 90% of the DIY here)than in the ability of almost all the people we've hired for this house remodel and I'm not fully ready to lay this on the door step of his cab install. I've just seen too much slipshod work done that he's had to fix, I guess. But, I also know and he admits that he dislikes finish type stuff and has a tendency to get impatient and rush through things once it gets past the 2x4 stage, so that is also possible here. If it is the cabs then I feel bad for him but again, I'm not there yet. The jury is out til Monday morning and then we'll see. I hope you are right Trebruchet that the counter can come out without damaging the splash. We had a thin coat of plaster on the drywall behind all the splash. I hope that helps and doesn't hurt possible removal. What was that saying? "If everyone on your block throws their problems out in the street, you'll probably run to grab your problems back". Guess I'll take this one over other possibilities, right? :) Whatever needs to be done we'll do that and maybe there is a lesson in this mess, too.

"I called an HVAC friend, and he told me to open the door, hold the switch manually, and see if that works. That time the system turned on and stayed on perfectly fine. He said it sounds like there is something that's restricting air flow and a limiter switch is engaging to prevent overheating..." I think your HVAC friend has a good lead as to what to investigate. Perhaps the door was originally not seated properly and was allowing just enough air so the limit switch did not trip. But when you took the door off and closed it again, you may have made a tighter seal and that little bit of air is no longer reaching the burner. It is an old furnace so anything is possible.

Thanks Boxerpal...I am happy with the quartzite...though I still suspect that it might not be sea pearl quartzite as it looks very different fm the ones I see online.....so far no etching or staining...I was super careful, first few mths but have become more relaxed now...my family is notoriously messy and there’s been coffee drips/other food leftover overnight and thankfully, it all came up easily..I also like that there’s color and movement in my stone which would hide potential stain, if it occurs ...it was sealed during installation...the installers used something called Sprint Antidrop...I am not sure if it’s easily available in big box stores...I was told they get it fm Italy...I need to seal on a yearly basis.. I was strictly told to use only water/soap to clean...occasionally I use the stone care wipes which I got fm Home Depot...Good luck w/your kitchen...I hope you will find what you love

Glacier White Corian wouldn't at all be a waste and would save you money over quartz right now with the tariffs on Chinese imports if you purchased a non-American brand which is basically anything except Cambria, and Cambria itself is expensive. You can even get the Glacier White Corian in a 3/4" thickness (most other colors only come in the 1/2" thickness). You might want to read up on some of the durability issues between the two surfaces. For starters, quartz can change color with exposure to sunlight which is something you don't see with Corian, and quartz can melt at lower temperatures (150 degrees Fahrenheit) than Corian (380 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit). Corian can be resurfaced easily, while this is much harder with quartz. Corian will develop a patina of light scuffs of which you are already aware, but again these can be buffed out whereas scratches in quartz aren't as easy to make, but if they are made, they're hard to repair inconspicuously. If your base cabinets are dramatically unlevel, then you could consider placing a narrow wood trim piece underneath your new countertop to disguise the shims. You'll want the surface level within 1/8" for any countertop installation including Corian. While Corian isn't as heavy as quartz or natural stone, it can still crack when placed on an uneven base. Another option would be to have the edge mitered to hide shimming. In any case, leveling can be done from the top as the previous commenter pictured.